Jd's build thread.... REKON fitted. now SOLD..

[Hilux Max]

Brendan is spot on......but like I mentioned, its for the factory UCA...which can only handle a certain amount of castor adjustment before it starts putting toe and camber out.

Its only one of the benefits of these UCA's and why people fit them.

-More castor adjustment means more clearance at the rear of the guards for larger tyres.
-More suspension droop
-More clearance between the UCA and the coils
-More clearance between the inner side of the tyre and outer edge of the UCA

[Bull]

How about better handling!

[danmcccc]

makes sense, but how much castor is to much, would keeping it within or on the limit of factory spec be ideal?

[Hilux Max]

would be ideal if your using the factory upper control arm.... You can also get more castor than the factory settings dictate in some cases. Every vehicle is slightly different from the enxt so no two will always have exactly the same results, thou they'll be close.

but why would you want to stick with factory specs if you can get better results by fitting an aftermarket upper control and benefit from it?

[ultimate]

We often run high positive castor in race vehicles for better handling. A lot of Commodores and performance vehicles actually run around 8-9 degrees of castor to keep the vehicle in a straight line. The castor in most 4WDS and heavier vehicles is usually kept fairly low to make them easier to turn. This is because the higher the castor, the more effort is required to turn. Not as big a factor on vehicles with Power Steering but is still noticeable.

Eccentric control arm bushes can also provide the same caster with the original control arms. They are often a lot cheaper and provide a lot more adjustment on installation.

[danmcccc]

thats the answer im looking for brendan...so really 5-6 degrees is ideal? im just thinking anymore and unessessary stress would be placed on tie rod ends etc when running large (33inch) tyres...we dnt need 8-9 degrees coz we arent travelling at high speed, am i along the right lines of thinking here or what?

[jdnkimsr5dc]

Thanks for the input guys. I'm gonna say I'm happy with the alignment for now. Front hasn't dropped yet even after bashing it down the roughest beach track in town. Try and get a photo or two up today.

[ultimate]

thats the answer im looking for brendan...so really 5-6 degrees is ideal? im just thinking anymore and unessessary stress would be placed on tie rod ends etc when running large (33inch) tyres...we dnt need 8-9 degrees coz we arent travelling at high speed, am i along the right lines of thinking here or what?

Ideal is a hard word to use as every vehicle and driving style is different. A lot of people really don't like the steering feedback with high castor (especially when running larger tyres). It generally won't cause any damage to the vehicle and if the positive castor is correcting the camber and toe adjustments, than it's obviously an advantage in that regard. Personally I would run a bit lower (e.g. standard to 4 degrees) but it does vary between drivers.

[jdnkimsr5dc]

My next little project that is bothering me is the fact that my Gecko rims are not hubcentric. I have access to a lathe and was planning on machining a set of rings up. Only prob is that the hollow bar is SO EXPENSIVE !!!! Is it necessary for the rims to be hubc if they are steel ? It is bothering me mainly because one of the buggers is not sitting central, easily visible by eye... And I just don't like the idea of the studs having the weight. I would machine them from stainless as I think alloy would corrode onto the hub and become stuck there. Thoughts?

[ultimate]

There was a guy on the Triton forum who had a wheel fall off on the highway and totalled his vehicle. His insurance knocked him back because the wheels were not hub centric. I would definitely look at getting the right ones or machining your current ones so they fit perfectly.

[pisso01]

Id go back to where you got the wheels from and get them to replace them. If they arent hub sentric they arent the right fit and they shouldnt have supplied them to you..

Cheers,

Chris..

[danmcccc]

yer if they said they would fit and they dont fit, they should swap or refund them for you

[jdnkimsr5dc]

Photos... Before REKON...

[jdnkimsr5dc]

And after...

[danmcccc]

looking awesome man!!! love it...just gotta ditch the side steps for some sliders and you'll have "the look"

cheers
Dan

[jdnkimsr5dc]

looking awesome man!!! love it...just gotta ditch the side steps for some sliders and you'll have "the look"

thanks mate... It's in the pipeline....

[Bobjones]

JD,

Mate can you let me know exactly what you had fitted in the front and approx cost (UCA's etc). Also did you get the diff lowered? I have Extra HD rear springs and thus the front sits lower but already have the Buds bash plates and don't want to "swap them over" as frankly the freight cost on weight is not worth the trouble. PM if need be.

Looks awesome (exactly what I want) and seems your over the moon with it.

Thanks
Neill

[jdnkimsr5dc]

PM Sent lad.

[Monster Rides]

Looking very nice and tidy... Though I agree with Dan - The sidesteps have got to go!


Cheers
Matt

[danmcccc]

Looking very nice and tidy... Though I agree with Dan - The sidesteps have got to go!


Cheers
Matt

itll look even higher without them on too