Marshwa's Build

[Marshwa]

Well what a FU*K of a weekend!

Had it planned to get my diff drop kit installed sat straight after i finished work and in time for some afternoon rums. Was a good plan, but went to sh1t from there, started around 12, finished around 7pm .

Started off by unbolting all the mounts and jacking up the diff to get the rear MR bracket on, first bolt on the left straight in, 2nd bolt threading into the bracket, had no chance on starting in. So out it comes again and WTF different thread pattern! Thank Christ i had a couple of spare bolts in the shed and was able to find a high tensile bolt that fitted.

Left is the Toyota bolt (Metric Fine Thread) and right is the type of bolt i had to use M12 standard metric thread (Didn't use the one pictured!)


So after spending around an hour searching for a bolt that would fit and getting the rear bracket fitted, i moved onto the front bracket.Started mounting it to the diff, 1 bolt in, 2nd bolt in, 3rd bolt...no f$@#&% chance! Due to the extra width of the bracket mount it was connecting on the taping edge of the diff housing. So off it comes and then i had to grind a bevel on the inner side.:




After grinding it down, gave it a coat of paint and it went on no worries. . Third bracket, went on no worries, THANK FU*K!.

Moved onto the bash plates. and they were a blessing! went on perfectly every hole lined up perfect which was lucky, cause by this time i was almost ready to burn the prick down!




Don't know why i had so many troubled with the diff kit, i haven't seen anyone else report these problems? Maybe it because mine was one of the first new models produced? But it sure as hell wasn't a pleasant experience! Anyone else experienced these kind of problems with the MR brackets?

[danmcccc]

sinan had the same problem with thread

[Hilux Max]

unfortunate about the issues....have seen another member here that also had a different thread issue but havent heard of anyone with clearance issues against the mount itself....glad you got it all sorted in the end.....not fun when things go to plan.

How good are the cv angles now?

[gavishuge]

Marshwa,

Thanks for showing us your experience because I am about to fit mine up, at least I can prepare myself

Regards
Gav

[Monster Rides]

Well this one has got me stuffed

Thread issue is known, not sure what happened but at least we know what we need to do to solve the issue.

I have no idea why these brackets caused you any issues... they have gone onto plenty of other trucks without issues.

Yet to get any feedback from any of the other guys who got in on these July specials with fitting issues.
Hopefully an isolated issue?

Apologies Mate... sorry to hear you had a buggar of time fitting them.

CV's and bash plates look good

Cheers
Matt

[Marshwa]

thanks fella's bit of a relief to know someone else had the thread problem, but baffled by the bracket was pretty upsetting having to grind off all the paint work .

Gav allow yourself plenty of time, saves getting so frustrated if something goes wrong, and gives you time to go and get a new bolt if needed

CV angles are looking good, should have done it way earlier. And the plates F-ING SEXY!!!

[scottsr20]

Good to see you doing some with the lux mate, haven't seen much on your build up lately . Your truck was the reason I bought a hilux in the first place.

[Kris]

Looking great Marshwa.
Kris.

[LY-00-NS]

I couldn't line up the passenger side diff drop bracket with all 3 bolts only got 2 in. And f%#*Ed one thread

[Marshwa]

Good to see you doing some with the lux mate, haven't seen much on your build up lately . Your truck was the reason I bought a hilux in the first place.

Haha wow cheers mate, might have to follow you lead with the sway bar connections and inverted shocks a bit later down the line

I couldn't line up the passenger side diff drop bracket with all 3 bolts only got 2 in. And f%#*Ed one thread

Yeh mate did the same, lucky i only did the first couple of threads and then my old my came in with his expertise and got it retreaded for me

[Marshwa]

Well after spending a lot of time and money on the suspension and exterior of the luxy, i thought it was about time to move onto the interior, and decided to purchase a few subs from America while our dollar was going so strong ( lucky i got in when i did).

Spent the last week making up a box to fit behind the rear seat of the lux and wiring it all up. Big thanks to John253a for helping me out understanding wiring and helping me find which subs and amp i should go with. In the end i went with 2 kicker CompVT 10" slim subs and a Hifonics 1000watt amp, which came with a capacitor and wiring kit. Got the hole lot from Audiosavings in America for $450 bucks deliver in under 5 days!! Was stoked with there service and prices when just one of these subs sells for $220 here in Aus

Anyway here are some pics:

Making the box went fully sealed and split them into separate compartments using 18mm MDF:







Routed out the back behind the subs 6mm to ensure the subs would fit:


To follow the back wall of the hilux cabin:




Coat of paint and a complementary sticker :



In place:


How far the seat will lift with them in (enough to get to the compartments and also get the seat to fold down still):


Was pretty happy with them, they go a lot harder then i thought they would thats for sure! I also stuffed the boxes with poly fill and install the amp and capacitor under the passenger seat but forgot to get any pics. If anyone wants i will through up my "shop" drawing i used for my box design .

Also got a new sticker that myself and a few mates run on our cars and bikes, bit of a joke club :


Cheers,

MAx

[john253a]

looking good,
your 10" shouldn't have needed to have the rear recessed, and what ratio of polyfill to air did you allow?
Rule of thumb is 1lbs to 1cuft, a little less is ok but more will affect bass output.
Also if you want more bass out of sub its best to flush mount subs,
The way i did mine was 16mm all round with a 12mm false front so as the sub sat inside 16mm front on 12mm
For your 10's i would have gone with 12mm all round and a brace in middle, as the factory boxes are only 9.5mm, kicker also recommend 50% poly fill, but idd stick with 1lbs-1cuft
180mm base, 40mm top, 400mm high, 1300mm wide, step at 340mm up
in 18mm= 0.581cuft each or 1.197cuft in a single box
in 16mm= 0.624cuft each or 1.28cuft in a single box
in 12mm= 0.712cuft each or 1.45cuft in a single box
in 10mm= 0.76cuft each or 1.544cuft in a single box

now the 10" requires 0.8cuft each but the kicker prefab box is only 0.506cuft (3/8")
so no matter what size you use you should be bigger, just that the more air the louder the lower notes are played
just some food for though

[Sinan]

Yeah mate I had issues with the bolt thread. Also grinded the edge to get the bracket to sit up flush against the diff pumpkin. all good now

[Marshwa]

Yeh cheers john, i originally wasn't going to brace the middle which is why i went with 18mm, shouldn't matter too much. As for poly fill i bought a 800gram bag and probably stuff in around 3/4 of it so prob around 600 grams. So maybe a little too much, but its sounding alright just got to try to tune my amp that way i like it

[john253a]

To get the most out of you system and the loudest, safely, without damage to you system
Ring around some installers in your area and find out if the have a Oscilliscope, if you only have the subs on an amp they should Be able to tune in about 10-20mins, at a cost of around 60-70 per Hr, it's well worth it if you ask me,

[Marshwa]

The other day i jumped in the lux went to drive to a mates house and lost me clutch on the way there. My clutch pedal got stuck in, i was able to pull it out a couple times and get to me mates house, then i lost it and couldn't engage or disengage gears all together.

First thoughts it would be the master cylinder, but was surprised to find the clutch fluid leaking out of the junction box just above the master cylinder. I didn't have the tools or time to get at it so i drained the lines, refilled the clutch fluid tank and drove it down to the mechanic. Called me up a couple hours later, said it was a simple fix, bypassed the junction box by just connecting the two lines and took it out of the system altogether . Clutch feels fine again, but i'm just wondering if anyone knows what the junction box is there for if its not even needed, and should i look at getting a new one and reinstalling it? or will it be fine?


The master cylinder is blue, the silver box above it is the junction box i'm talking about.

[Hilux Max]

That component is called the Clutch Accumulator Assembly.

Not 100% sure of what its purpose is, but just as a guess, I'd say it has something to do with ensuring clutch fluid pressure, kind of like a failsafe if theres something wrong up the line.....dont quote me on it. Toyota wouldnt have put it there for no reason.

[Marshwa]

Ahh thanks Max, knew i could count on you!

Yeah was my thought exactly when he said he just removed it, can't have been there for nothing Seems to be driving fine, might just wait it out and see if it has any effects within the next couple of months before i run out and buy a new one. Hopefully it won't cause any major problems

[danmcccc]

an accumulators purpose in any hydraulic circuit is to dampen the harshness of the fluid delivery/flow...in ones i have worked on the are the size of your head and round, they have a bladder in them and are charged with gas, as the fluid enters the accumulator the bladder takes the hit of the "pulsing" that might happen when the pum churns the oil......so in a clutch application im assuming its there to take the hit so you dont blow slave cylinder seals or crack clutch forks from sudden jolts on the pedal maybe??????

thats my 1/8 educated stab at explaining it anyways

Dan

[Marshwa]

Thank Dan! The clutch pedal seems fine, doesn't have any unexpected jolts. But if it starts blowing seals in the slave or master cylinders it might be worth looking at getting a new one and reinstalling it. Cheers for in the insight mate!