Fridge/slide/power

[rosco01]

OK folk,
just about done - it ended up looking like a dog's breakfast after all that planning - I've got half a copper mine in the tub now.... and a fair bit of silver as well.

The earth bolt location proved a plus (excuse negative pun) - it leant way for mounting the rear frame for RanOx.....



I had to fabricate two frames to mount RanOx - no matter how I tried, it wasn't possible to get it into a position where the screen could be read through the open side window.....



With RanOx in position, now the nightmare started....
I believe if I were to do this again (never, I hope) - I'd mount supply to the Anderson plug at the top, followed by RanOx supply then the power pin of the trailer socket on the bottom.

As you will shortly see, there have been many occasions where leads have had to cross each other to make the connections.

What you will see below, is the the heavy red leads are the power feeds, the thinner ones are relay drives.

All connections were hydraulically crimped, silver soldered and heat shrink tube covered..... except one - which I will replace if my testing tomorrow proves satisfactory.

Here's the final pix.... as mentioned, it's a mess......



You can see that I have now used five relays - the two mounted on the RanOx frame are the 70 A relays for both the Anderson plug and the trailer socket power pin.

Below those, the l/hs relay is the fridge relay, next to it is the load change-over relay and finally, because I used more than two relays for RanOx to drive - added an additional relay to "switch" earth on the power relays.

The 70 A circuit breaker on the upper r/hs is the aux battery supply. It only feeds to the fridge relay (pin 87A).
Its purpose is to supply power to the fridge when the engine is not running.

The 70 A circuit breaker on the lower l/hs is the supply to the Anderson Plug.
It can be "tripped" out to isolate the Anderson plug if not required.

The fuse holder (mounted to canopy frame, centre) houses a 30 A blade fuse for the trailer socket power pin.
This is a separate line from the engine bay bus bar.... and will eventually drive the caravan fridge.
It is controlled by RanOx (as is also the Anderson plug relay) the contacts of those 70 A power relays (mounted to RanOx frame) only close when there is an output from the alternator.... engine running.

The only leads which come from RanOx are the supply power in, aux battery positive (out), aux battery earth, brown lead (relay earths) blue lead (supply relay..... low aux battery voltage) and the battery temperature sensor (grey lead).

It all sits neatly hidden from the rear by the fridge.
RanOx can be easily viewed/operated through the opened side window.

I contacted Waeco to purchase an additional fridge 12v plug for the fridge and was shocked to learn that it was going to cost nearly $30...... the whole lead assembly has to be purchased....
I pondered on this for sometime and even commenced " building" a plug using some miniature terminals which I intended to "mould" into some plasti-bond to make the plug.....

then a great light "shone"......

The supplied lead came with a cigarette lighter plug - which the adaptor could be removed to reveal a Merit plug....
My local electronics store sold me a Merit socket - which I mounted to the l/hs RanOx frame.......



This socket comes with a spring loaded cover - and (fortunately) the Waeco supplied lead is just long enough to make the connection with the fridge slide extended....

So, reader - tomorrow is crunch day.... with a clear head in the morning, I'll re-check the wiring, connections and have another bit of a think ...... if there aren't any shorts with the mulit-meter I'll fit the fuses and power up RanOx.... then set each relay into action to test the functions...

To those of you who are disappointed with the mess I ended up with, I'm sorry - I had hoped for a lot neater product than what you see above.....

In what you see, everything is protected, switchable... and above all - can be completely isolated by those two circuit breakers in the engine bay.

Let you know how my efforts are rewarded.....

frats,
Rosco

[rosco01]

Follow up and final post to this subject.
All tested yesterday - happy to report that all systems/functions working correctly.
Have 13.4 volts at both Anderson plug and trailer socket when crank battery is at "float".

RanOx has a delay of around 30 seconds after turning engine off - the load change over relay driver is dependant on crank battery voltage. RanOx needs to "learn" what this voltage foundation is and may take a day or two to determine a final setting. In the mean time, it opens the relays when crank voltage drops to 12.8 v.... which is up to 30 secs after killing the alternator output..... it can be wired to an ignition supply output - but an alternative mode option needs to be selected for this..... there are 5 options to choose from.....

Happy to answer any questions from entire project....

Will post up a new thread called "RanOx aux battery/crank battery mapping" when Alan Oxenbough connects up his diagnostic equipment - to map temperatures, voltages and both battery charging rates... in graph format.....

frats,
Rosco

[Alby]

Bit of an epic project there Rosco. Well done, you have put a lot of effort into it. It is amazing how complex a project it is for such a simple requirement of 'a bit of power in the back'

I also use the waeco merit plug for my fridge, but would also consider removing it and fitting an anderson plug instead. That is what I have done with my compressor,battery charger and inverter, I then just fit an anderson plug to the cigarette plug side of the lead that I cut off with about 6 inches of cable left in between so I can then revert back to a cigy plug on any of my appliances if need be.
You have said that you are maintaining voltage through the system but have you checked amperage???? I found with my old thinner gauge cable that whilst I was getting a good voltage reading (13v +) I was getting too much amperage drop so was struggling to get sufficient charge to my tray battery.

What is the next project?

[rosco01]

Thanks Alby,
yes indeed - my little "projects" usually get a bit complicated and over-engineered..... just can't help it - opportunity etc. etc......

I like the idea of the Anderson connection - it makes better use of the available output.
I have changed the engine bay accessory c/bker to a 100A one - and used the original 70 A one for output on the distribution board.... the Anderson on the rear bar is a 50 A plug - the relay on the board is 70 A.

I have yet to arrange with Alan Oxenbough to connect up and map my systems.... will post these up to the forum when I have graphs and data....

The cables from the engine bay are all 4 B&S - distribution board for Anderson is also - leads from board to Anderson plug are 6 B&S... it will be interesting to get values under load.... again will post when I get them....

next project - have to fit those Aussie Truck Mirrors to the doors..... my little truck has "one piece" window lacing - may have to "slice" it open to fit the upper legs.... don't want to do this - any suggestions for fitting these mirrors without having to make modifications.....
guess I've now "telegraphed" my next project, Alby....?

frats,
Rosco

[Alby]

Rosco

I don't know what you are towing but an alternative is that you can fit mirror spacers to your existing factory mirrors, they are about 30mm thick but I am not sure if that is enough for your needs or not??

[rosco01]

Thanks Alby,
It's a full width van - can't tell you the external dimension as we don't have it yet - I do know that it is 7'9" wide internally - I expect it will most likely be 8' across externally.

I haven't run a tape across the little truck yet to measure distance mirror to mirror at maximum....

I don't believe those spacers will come out far enough - but will make further enquiries.... and measurements.
Has anyone used them? and can the be "doubled" up..... a combined total of 120 mm may afford vision down each side of the van...... at the extremities of the mirrors....

I suppose all that is required legally is to be able to see along each side of the van....whilst in the "straight ahead" position.

Can you tell me where these can be purchased, Alby? - will most certainly take this option rather than cut into the weather seals...

I am very hesitant to make any cuts into those window lacings.... I'd like to be able to purchase a replacement set first..... have to "chat" with my friendly Toyota service department....

Thanks for the suggestion - let you know what comes of it...

frats,
Rosco

[rosco01]

Ok - maybe this will close the thread.....

Fitted fridge and currently running overnight on test.

Following pix are of all items in situ on l/hs of tub..







Made contact with Alan Oxenbough yesterday - will have results from testing/mapping next week .. hopefully..

frats,
Rosco

[9W6VX]

All item in situ look top drawer.

You guys are very good DIY'ers.

[rosco01]

Hi again everyone.....
About to throw up some charts mapping the output of alternator, crank battery temperatures, RanOx charging functionality and rates/cycles, fridge cycling discharge rates and a few other selected "zones" I have currently under investigation.

The aux battery I have fitted is a "Century" 75 AH flooded deep cycle..... our fridge - a Waeco CF 50 AC.
From 100% SOC, the battery supported fridge operation for 68 hours before reaching 49% SOC.

I will post these charts when Alan O has "mapped" the data in graph form.... I believe many on the forum will be quite interested to know how the charging system/temperature aspect in our little trucks performs and also differs from that in the Prado fleet....

I believe I have posted those RanOx charts mapping the Prado elsewhere in the forum... but can't find them....

frats,
Rosco