Sway Bar Removal

[Skog07]

Max.
Having a two piece design with a removable piece would put some huge stress on those bolts. I agree with Marshwa the first kit looks as though it would do the job better as the extension is braced both ways and more rigid.
I dont like welds in critial areas such as this, a sway bar is effectively a piece of spring steel which is sensitive to heat treatment and welding. I wouldnt attempt a mod like this on the existing sway bar.
Sorry mate didnt mean to come across as abrupt..
Cheers
Mark

[rodw]

Might be another group buy for rod to chase up - i know they would sell well on newtriton as well as here - should be a similar sized swaybar on it.

What do you reckon Rod?

Let me catch my breath mate. Still, it would be vrey good to have a solution to this.

[KTM525EXC]

With the shape of our hilux sway bars i think there is less of a twisting action and more of a bending action due to the way it droops down at the front. im toying with the idea of buying a 2nd hand swaybar from a wrecker and spining up a simular setup to what Jop posted at work. Making it a diferent design but the same principle. One negative that i have thought up is puting the disconect in the middle will make the sway bar more ridged thus making the swaybar harder to bend making less body roll but less articulation. What you guys recon?

Cheers Troy

[Marshwa]

man i think u've got it round the wrong way the way i see it most the force will be in a twisting action. If u have a joint in the middle it will need to be able to withhold both forces twisting on it and bending on it and therefore you'll have to have something more then just a couple of grub screws. Maybe if u could make a joint that is sort of like a tongue and groove setup reducing the force of twisting on the grub screws.

I can't really see how u think it acts in a bending motion so don't see how having a joint in the middle will effect the sway bars motion that much? but i could be very wrong, just my outlook on it all

[KTM525EXC]

yeah you are correct it will still twist, but imagine where the swaybar bends down it will be opposing the other side thus bending foward or backwards but it still has to twist slightly along the length of the swaybar. If i do go ahead with it i wont be using grub screws thats for sure, ill be milling a keyway in it like you said a tounge and groove.

Here is a example of how making the joint in the middle will make it stiffer: imagine a long stick and twist it, it will twist and bend quite easy. Now break the stick in to 2 pieces and try twisting and bending them, it will be alot harder. their for one longer piece will bend easier than 2 short pieces.
thats my theory lol wether its right is another thing lmao

cheers Troy

[jop]

Another version of the original design i posted up had a pneumatic ram which did the disconnection/reconnection from a dash mounted switch.
I will see if i can dig up some more info on the design - i havn't heard of any issues with the grubscrews moving and they have been in use on some hard wheeled pajero's for a lot of years now

[Marshwa]

yeh mate i can understand ur point i guess the only way we'll find out what works is if we do it haha.

Jopthat would be similar to the new discoveries which i think have a feature where u can select to disconect the sway bars on the dash.

I didn't say don't use grub screws i'm just a bit bias to relying on them to take all the load both in twisting and bending forces. Like i said along side a tongue and groove setup i would support using them

[KTM525EXC]

yeah the grub screws wouldent be taking bugger all load if a keyway is used. they would only be used for stopping it from sliding off. yeah the new jeeps use the auto disconnect swaybars with a switch on the dash as well.

[Skog07]

Troy.
Just mucking around in paint (Certainly no version of CAD..lol) and came up with this idea.
It would be similar to the designs posted up before but no heat work done to the sway bar. It would require the swaybar to be wire cut though down the red line.

Studs would be retained and drilled through the complete swaybar assembly and retained in the half clamp at the back. The studs and bolts would be represented by the green lines..I got sick of drawing but you would nave something similar on the opposite side that the nuts would retain the whole assembly. And also the half clamps would have to be longer than the wire cut section as well to provide rigidity and take some of the torque forces out of the bolts.
You could customise this further again and have each half of the clamp split and remain on the swaybar on the vehicle and come away with the removable piece.
Just throwing an idea out there.
Cheers
Skog

[KTM525EXC]

Troy.
Just mucking around in paint (Certainly no version of CAD..lol) and came up with this idea.
It would be similar to the designs posted up before but no heat work done to the sway bar. It would require the swaybar to be wire cut though down the red line.

Studs would be retained and drilled through the complete swaybar assembly and retained in the half clamp at the back. The studs and bolts would be represented by the green lines..I got sick of drawing but you would nave something similar on the opposite side that the nuts would retain the whole assembly. And also the half clamps would have to be longer than the wire cut section as well to provide rigidity and take some of the torque forces out of the bolts.
You could customise this further again and have each half of the clamp split and remain on the swaybar on the vehicle and come away with the removable piece.
Just throwing an idea out there.
Cheers
Skog

Good idea Mark

i recon your paint drawing skills are better than some of our cad draftsman at work lmao
so you are refering to the one max put up with the one that the arms are removable? instead of welding, using your idea. I recon your design will be much stronger and have heaps more support in the stress point.
good idea Mark

Troy

[Hilux Max]

Almost easier just to remove the whole thing when going offroad.....

[KTM525EXC]

Almost easier just to remove the whole thing when going offroad.....

ya right atm it is, but once i have the quick disconect worked out it will be a piece of piss

[KTM525EXC]

one problem mark i would have is the wire cutters at work wouldent fit the whole swaybar. i think i would have to mill it off instead.

[Skog07]

Dont worry Troy the idea that I proposed wont work anyway..
Turns out that that section of swaybar has been belted flat and is not round like I originally thought.
You could mill the swaybar flat and square and make a similar design to the round the original round one that I came up with. Using the same basic priciple without splitting the swaybar down its length.. The strength would be in the half clamps like the first design.
I got underneath today and also came up with a design that would limit the swaybar movement at the ends at maximum articulation but would still be partially connected. It would be more fiddly to make though..
I'll have a crack later on version 2... In paint..lol
Cant half tell I've got nothing to do can you...
Cheers
Mark

[KTM525EXC]

Dont worry Troy the idea that I proposed wont work anyway..
Turns out that that section of swaybar has been belted flat and is not round like I originally thought.
You could mill the swaybar flat and square and make a similar design to the round the original round one that I came up with. Using the same basic priciple without splitting the swaybar down its length.. The strength would be in the half clamps like the first design.
I got underneath today and also came up with a design that would limit the swaybar movement at the ends at maximum articulation but would still be partially connected. It would be more fiddly to make though..
I'll have a crack later on version 2... In paint..lol
Cant half tell I've got nothing to do can you...
Cheers
Mark

lol yeah i was thinking about that today, i coudent remember if it was round or flat. i think its flat in that spot to have clearance from the tyre on full lock. How hard is spring steel as i have never machined it, would a carbide cutter be ok to mill it?

[Skog07]

Here you go Troy... Version2..
I think you should be ok with Carbides. Just dont let the job get too hot. Give it the old hacksaw test and see how it goes..
I didn't think, also that the swaybar has been flattened for Clearance either...
Maybe check how much clearance you have to work with and use a sway bar from a wrecker rather than cutting up your good one...lol

[KTM525EXC]

i found the website with the setup that max posted, it turns out they only remove the arm from one side which makes sense coz it wouldent be any better removing both coz there will be no friction to work against. i rang a couple of wreckers on friday so far no luck but ill keep hunting its going to be a close fit Mark but it should work

Troy

[bill_i_am]

Any progress on this one? All gone a bit quiet

[KTM525EXC]

hey Bill

yeah you are right it has gone a bit dead. I spoke to brendan from ultimate a while back and he said he would look at making them in the futrure if there was a big enough demand.

At the moment ive been taking my swaybar off like max done earlier in the thread evertime i go out doing serious 4x4ing and i tell you what it makes one hell of a differance

cheers Troy

[Hilux Max]

Just bumping this back up quickly since I came across some more info on toyota120.com -

http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?p=120336#post120336

I used to build (and sell) Sway bar disconnects for the 3rd Gen trucks. Most of you won't know me unless you hang out at Yotatech or 4x4wire. I was surprised that the 120 platform has been out for seven years and no one has a disconnect system designed for the front. So I took ten minutes, now that I have a GX, and came up with one. I'm currently field testing it.

Requires no tools do disconnect. Requires about three seconds to disconnect each side. A bit longer to reconnect. Still in prototype and testing. Build them and you will damage your truck.