I am probably going to be guilty of repeating myself but it's best to have the words and pictures together. Also read bill_i_am's posts. The CKMA12 is a highly adjustable compressor in respects to mounting so have a play around with it prior to drilling to get an idea of how it all works
Be careful to really think about where in the compartment you put the compressor as too close to the out side will result in hard to get to silver allen key hex bolts, too far towrds the centre and the nutsert holes you drill will hit a double skin in the floor pan, too high and you will not be able to close the lid. Note the double skin didn't matter in the end as the nutsert pulled tight against it.
As suggested by bill_i_am take the black mounting plate off and mark where you want it. I have already put the nutserts in in this photo. When drilling the holes do one at a time and check your other hole marks, remark if needed.
I was lucky enough to have a friend who had access this delux nutsert tool
Not sure if necessary but I cut a piece of old tyre tube up to put between the bracket and the car body
The mounted bracket
Now prepare your compressor and fittings. As for the airline I am only setting mine up for pumping my tyres and not diff lock solenoids. I set my air line up on the 1/4" NPT port where the pressure switch goes. To get the air to the outside of the vehicle I first used a male-male threaded 1/4" NPT 90 degree elbow screwed to a female-female 1/4" NPT T piece (to put the pressure switch on), which I then screwed another male-barbed 1/4" NPT 90 elbow to. This last elbow had a barbed end suitable for a 10mm (ID) airline (I used this ID as I had a piece of hose in the garage). I crimped the hose on using a clamp which I bought from Pirtek which only requires the use od bull nose pliers. I also purchased the fittings from there.
The exit point of the 10mm hose
The finished compressor. However you now have to take the silver manifold off turn the compressor body around 180 degrees and put it back into the blue alloy mounting bracket. This is because you need to access the small black allen key bolts to tighten it up at the end of the install.
The mounted compressor. Note the air filter is to the outside and the air fittings are to the front and inside of the compartment. I had to cut away some of the floor vinyl (yeh it's rough but it was late) in order to get access to the silver hex head bolts which attach the compressor to the black bracket mounted in the previous steps. Screwing these bolts up with an allen key was about an 8.5 on the fiddly scale so try and keep your cool. I neatly rolled my cables up and cable tied them as far away form the compressor/fittings as possible.
Now for routing the cables. There is two parts to the electrical system, one is the power supply to the main battery, the other is to activate the relay via a dash mounted switch. I chose to route the relay wire first across to the right hand side under seat compartment, then to the dash under the floor vinyl and center consol. Also before I threaded the wire I first put flexiable corrugated conduit on it for a bit of protection. Now to thread the cable under the floor remove the front seat completely (four bolts and a little white clip under the seat), pop the door sill trims up (front and back) with a big flat head screw driver, remove the seat belt anchor bolt on the B pillar, remove the lower trim on the B pillar (just pull up the rubber strips on either side and pull), unclip the floor vinyl/carpet and thread to the center consol.
You do not have to fully remove the center consol. Undo the two bolts inside the main compartment, pull up trim around gear stick ( I can't remember exactly what I did here but have a fiddle), thread wire through to the cigarette lighter socket area.
As for the power supply cable to the main battery I extended the wiring loom by soldering on a piece of dual core 6mm wire. I routed that under the floor vinyl in the back seat to the left hand door sill and followed this along to the fire wall on the left side where there is a good gromet behind the glove box. I then routed the wire behind the dual battery to the main battery. You'll have to remove some more trims but not the seat. I also put another jumbo fuse at the battery as the one on the ARB loom is too close to the compressor, I guess one fuse is best but I didn't want to cut into the loom. Just measn I have to carry twice as many fuses. Sorry no photos here.
Ok for the sourcing of the power for the switch I tapped into the cigarette ligther at towo points. For the blue/white wire I tapped into the illumination light around the cig plug and for the red wire I used the positive for the cig lighter itself. Note the positive (on my cig lighter anyway) is black!!
Now read the instructions form ARB at this point rather carefully as there is some great points to adhere to. I now mounted the switch next to the rear demister switch which you have to file out first (another fiddly job).
On the outside I crimped a Nitto female fitting. I left the 10mm hose long enough so I could tuck it away under the rear seat. I could have also cut it short but I can see the door slamming in the wind on the thinner (more expensive) ARB air line. However do not make the blue hose too long as it will drag in the dirt when you uncouple.
I connected the ARB hose to the Nitto female with a male Nitto (kind of obvious I know). I now store my inflator and hose in a nice little calico bag under the front passenger seat ready for action at anytime
Final notes. I believe I have left enough room in the compartment to set up diff lock solenoids if necessary but don't quote me on it. Also I have just completed a 950km road trip (see my pics in the trips section) where the car copped a beating and I used the compressor a lot. As expected no hassles and it is still tight in it's bracket. I ended up pumping my mates car most of the time as well because he couldn't be bothered setting his compressor up (also an ARB one in a carry box).
Good luck
