Dual Battery Setup... holy $$$$ batman!

[lux soap]

Ok, went and priced a dual battery setup at both TJM and ARB over the weekend. $800 fitted from TJM and $550 fitted from ARB (both including battery tray). That actually blew me away as I wasn't expecting anything near that. Are these reasonable prices or are these guys just ripping us off out here. I understand it's worth spending the bucks on the battery tray to minimise the risk of damaging the vehicle so no dramas there.

Otherwise, what other dual battery systems do some of you use and what price can I expect?

What is a good auxilliary battery to install?

And... is it easy enough to install at home or is it best to go to an auto electrician. Would like to set up some 12V sockets in the tub for the fridge too.

Thanks in advance guys.

[gjohnson]

It all depends on what type/brand of system they are installing and what type of battery they are using. I got a Piranha 180 DBE-S system that can be charged from solar panels as well with the digital monitor, 90 amp hour battery, 2 sockets installed in the tub for $650.
Just the price of batteries can range from $100 to $400. Get a few prices but ask what system and batt they use. Heaps of threads on here about it. Good luck.

[GreenHilux Guy]

ha, my dual battery setup set me back 1100 from ARB. But we had to move some things from the bay, wire up a dual battery gauge in the pillar pod and put power into the tray. Big dollars

[olcoolone]

I'm sure if you look around you should be able to find someone who can do it for a couple of hundred dollars.....don't expect it to be good.

When we do dual battery set ups we are in the higher price range as well.

We could sell you a dual battery set up for about $500.00, would it work YES, would WE be happy with the job NO.

Allow $200.00 for the good dual battery isolator.
Allow $300.00 for a good deep cycle battery.
Allow $150.00 for the battery tray.
Allow $40.00 for cabling.
Allow $50.00 to $100.00 for a fuse or circuit breaker.
Allow $250.00 for labour.

Then you can add..
Fuse block.
Sockets in the rear tub.
Anderson plugs for jumper leads.

Word of warning do you research, compare apples to apples, is it good quality gear and can you add to it later without much modification.

Work out what you need and up size it and think 5 years in advance to what you may use it for (winch, camper trailer etc.).

Don't think the guy who is charging you $500.00 is doing you a great deal and don't think the guy who is charging you $900.00 is ripping you off.

Regards Richard

[rodw]

Lux soap, That is the ball park price. olcoolone outlines what needs to be done. I have had the dual battery fitted in my Hilux by ARB and with power to the tub it was around $1,200.

I did the last one myself and it took quite a while. Used a $95 dual battery kit from Super Cheap based on the instructions on this site:
[URL]http://www.fridge-and-solar.net/dual_bat.htm[/URL]

Overall, I think you do a better job yourself, but ARB were not too bad except the wiring could have been heavier to the tub. I diid not have the time to do it when I needed it. Check my "Rod's new rig" thread and my profile for some pics and wiring ideas.

[camwill69]

Richard you are spot on. That is what I would have said.

My system cost $1500 at ARB and I could not be happier. I designed the system and they installed to my specs. It involves more than what you are looking at Lux as I have 2 batts in the tray with outlets and a connection to the camper that was all done at the same time. 3 x batts, all anderson pluged for change of configeration at any time with no fuss.

Works well. But as Richard said , think for the future and go over size not under.

Regards,
Camwill69

[TLux]

I got ARB tray and isolator for $450. Battery is worth about $270 on top of that. Fitting myself, which anyone could do. Comes with great instructions! You could get a cheaper battery or get a mate to get you one at a great price like I'm doing.

[bdlavis]

Olcoolone is pretty much on the money.

You need to remember the little bits:
Fuse holders, heat shrink, battery cable, twin core wire for hot plugs, split tube, terminals etc etc......all adds up.
Voltage sensative relays (automatic isolators) are very handy but good quality ones are not cheap. Only cheaper way, but to maintain quality, would be to use a manual switch - bit of a pain in the arse though and might only save you 100 bucks.

[lux soap]

Thanks lads. After a bit more research I've come to terms with the fact that it's going to be an expensive exercise. Getting the fridge for free so at least that's a big saving there (that's how I'll justify it to the boss anyhow). The fridge is an old Engel (28 years old to be precise) and has been running non-stop as the old man's beer fridge since they tripped around Aus many moons ago. Amazing that it's still kicking along perfectly. The only drama I see with it is that it draws around 8 amps. Any thoughts?

Thanks for the info guys that was a big help. Cheers.

[olcoolone]

lux soap, I would not get an Engle because Waeco are so much better..blah.. Blah.. Blah.

The Engle should do you for many years to come, obviously they aren't as good as the new Engles due to design.

8 amps is a bit heavy, it all depends on how often it cycles.

New Engles draw about 3 to 4 amps an hour on average over a 24 hour period.

Don't expect to get anymore then about 24 to 36 hours from a 75 amp hour aux battery.

Most deep cycle batterys only like being discharged to 75% of there rated capacity and most will only accept 20 amp per hour recharge rate.

If going under the bonnet and you are going to use a sealed battery you will shorten the life and capacity of it.

Most sealed deep cycle batterys are only designed to operate in a 20 to 50 deg C temp range not 80+ Deg C.

It may be better to use a wet cell type battery that you can top up.

Regards Richard

[lux soap]

Thanks mate.

[ROLLUX]

drop into the local cat dealer, there batteries are maintanence free and life time warrenty and not to pricey either.

[jiggins]

i'm looking at a dual battery setup soon too. but i'm planning on doing myself i have a pretty good idea of the electronics as my father is a sparky.

What or where is the best place to bring the power into the tray.

Thanks in advance

Jiggins

[rodw]

Jiggins, you can bring a wire up from the rear wheel well into thte cavity behind the rear lights.

[Maca]

I made up my own tray. Very time consuming, but cost very little (probably about $20) I ran the wiring via a fusable link down along passenger side of the chassis rail, across the bottom of the tub (at the front of the tub) & up into the tub at the front top corner (drivers side) because my fridge is on that side. Convoluted tubing on all the wiring. If you run twin wiring, one conductor can be for your fridge & the other for another power socket. Minimum conductor diameter should be 6mm square. Don't forget the earth return has to be same size or use the vehicle body/chassis as the earth. Have to ensure that the body has good earth to chassis. An other place to bring the wiring through is to drill out the rivets that hold the little square panel at the front of the tub & fit the power sockets to the panels & then screw the panels back on using slip on anchor nuts.

[rodw]

In my last car, I started with a $20 battery tray from Battery World sitting on top of the guard with another angle iron brace below it I welded up. After a while, I overfilled the battery and got a real mess on the paintwork from acid everywhere. Whan I repainted the mess that had been made, I ditched the tray as it was corroded, did not look strong enough and got a stainless tray for a Rodeo from TJM for $100 which was much sturdier. I still used my own angle iron brace under it. I'd suggest you buy a Pirahna or ARB tray and be done with it after my experience unless you know somebody who is a sheet metal worker.

Rod.