Bodylift - Raising ARB Bar

[Boof]

I have to agree with Twisty the bar is designed to be supported off those portions already. By strengthening and adding plates to areas not designed for it all you are doing is causing stress on other areas. Someone like Brooksy or Bubs would be better suited to explain it all than myself. But I have heard these guys several times explain to me while less is sometimes better.

Its the same idea as using a 10mm fisch plate on the chassis, it becomes stronger than the chassis and rather than a brace becomes a fault point. Daves idea basically utilises all the design and engineering that ARB have already done on the bar and just relocates it. A much better idea imo, and pretty much how I would do it, the other thing is done properly it would look factory and would not be as noticeable as the original design shown

[rodw]

Max, You got this sorted out just in time mate. Thought you might like to see a sneak pic but I will paint them for you mate!

Picked up the blocks this arvo (all 110 of them) so plenty to go round...

[Hilux Max]

Thanks mate...your a bloody legend....I removed the side splashguards and had a better look underneath this arvo at how everything sits....pity I dont know how to download pics from my new phone to the PC, otherwise Id show them here......

Im pretty sure Im gonna cut and reweld 2 inches higher....like Boof said, it will look more factory, will be string enough too.

Im surprised the ARB mounts arent even welded right around but in little section around.

Im hanging to jack the bitch up now

[ScotsMan]

would it not be easier to extend the plate at the front of the bar i have not really had a good look at it as all my splash gaurds are still installed , but if you welded a longer cleat over the plate on the far left hand side of mmaaxx's pic you could just re'drill the holls and lift the bar might be a bit more leverage cause the plate would be longer but i am sure it could be stiffened ?

[rodw]

would it not be easier to extend the plate at the front of the bar i have not really had a good look at it as all my splash gaurds are still installed , but if you welded a longer cleat over the plate on the far left hand side of mmaaxx's pic you could just re'drill the holls and lift the bar might be a bit more leverage cause the plate would be longer but i am sure it could be stiffened ?

I wondered that as well bt I don't have an ARB bar to look at. I think though that this lifts the bar, but not the winch cradle. Would that be right?

[Diegothecat]

That kit looks very sexy rod, i think im gettin a little excited,

now ill just have to find a house lifter so i can still fit my car in the garage.

[rodw]

That kit looks very sexy rod, i think im gettin a little excited,

now ill just have to find a house lifter so i can still fit my car in the garage.

Well there is another way

[Diegothecat]

So mmaaxx how did you go removing the splash guards? I luckly had to replace a fog light bulb over on friday so i had a quick look also.

Im starting to like the idea from twistie ( i though for starters that he wasnted to cut in the middle of the icrush point but now i realise the plan ) but there isnt enough room to re-wield the tube another 50mm up on that section. So it looks like we'd have to extend the original section anyways.

Is this what you also noticed?

Ben

[Hilux Max]

Removing the splashguards was abit of a drama, some of the square nuts had come loose of their holding brackets and I had to use multi grip pliers into the tight spot there to hold them to get the bolts out...was a good excercise and my knuckles look abit worse for wear

Yes Twisty's method is the preffered option....Id recommend if doing this removing the front portion of the bar off the mounts leaving the "sub mount" if I can call it that, that has the bar the goes horizontally between both side of the chassis rail. this will allow you to measure 2 inches higher easier between the two mounts with a long bar or something equivalent...will ensure things are more equal rather than measureing both mounts seperately.

then cut those crush tube mounts off this horizontal section and reweld it hight on the vehicle....atleast thats what I think would be better.

At the top opf the new position there will be a small section that would need bracing at the rear which wont be a big problem at all.

That being siad, I do have someone coming this saturday arvo to check out my barwork and all going well Ill be selling it and getting a front tube bar of some sort to suit the lift and sliders....would be abit easier fitting something to suit straight away than modify the ARB bar if I can help it.

[Diegothecat]

Iv just come back from Fourby's at Moorooka in Brisbane, and they say that they can lift my bar with no problems. They couldnt give me a firm price as they havent done one b4 but they seemed very reassuring that they can do it and keep the price under $500. Looks like ill just have to measure the city car parks now just to see if i can still park the car at work.

[Hilux Max]

Guys, came across some interesting info just now....saw the profile of 06sr5 who says he has an Airbone 5" lift kit, which is a 3" Suspension Lift and a 2" body lift......heres a pic of his truck, running 285 MTZ's -



Anyway, I googled Airbone Hilux Suspension and came across their Facebook Page which has some picture of modified hilux's that they have done.....and how they have modified mounts on the factory bullbars -

In the pic below you can see how the mounts have been cut and re welded with an extra piece put in -




And here you can "just" see the black bodylift blocks in place -




And the completed truck looking tough-as with what I now see is an Ironman Bullbar -


Next to another lifted lux with standard bumper -


That grey hilux sits really nicely -


A link to their business website for those interested - http://www.airbornesuspension.com.au/

[Jack S]

so this thread, does it apply to any bullbar?
because i got a factory toyota bar and looking the 'rodw' body lift....

[Hilux Max]

The same principle applies Jack...cut and reweld the mounts 2" higher...if you cant do it yourself or are unsure....just leave the bar mounts bolted to the front of the vehicle without the bar and go to a weld shop or fabricator and ask them to raise the mounts 2"....shouldnt take a pro long at all.

then bodylift your truck and re mount the bar on it.

[jep]

the way airborne suspension have done theirs loooks pretty easy and straight forward, Just have to wait for the Body lift blocks now and some spare time!

[rodw]

the way airborne suspension have done theirs loooks pretty easy and straight forward, Just have to wait for the Body lift blocks now and some spare time!

Allright, rub it in. Every time I think I have got t all together another order comes through. I never expected my kit to be so popular! Have you any idea how much work there is in the override mounts and the radiator drop brackets? I've spent days on them and I have now got about 17 kits made. Some need painting. With a bit of luck, I'll have about 5 spare once these orders are filled (that is if people don't keeping buying them!).

[jep]

Hahaha sorry mate didnt mean to rub it in or rush you. I have plenty of time to wait wont be home for another month yet!

[KTM525EXC]

just bumping this thread up for those intrested like me (future referance for the coming months )

[amitch888]

I modified my arb bar back on the weekend, I did it how twisty explained on page one, cut the welds on the crush tube on the bar (obvouisly on the end closest to the ute). I got the hammer and punch and marked on each side where the crush tubes were welded, so once cut off and measured exactly 50mm up to match the body lift, marked again with the punch to know where to weld them back on. As the crush tube is not a straight face all the way up, it angles back towards the ute at the top, I had to make some plates to support the crush tube at the top. I did one side at a time so you can always look back on the first one to make sure you have everything inline and on the right angles so the bar isnt facing up in the air and or looking down once finished. All this only took about an hour plus fitting the bar back up.

Doing it this way I dont believe I didnt effected the crush tube, should still work the same and it also lifts the bar in the best spot for a better approach angle. Im still sure its as strong as before to be winch off. Not sure how it will go with engineering, if I dont buy an XROX bar this week i'll be looking at trying to get this one engineered if possible.

Hard to explain without pictures, some of it will make sence if you hop under and have a close look at your bar mounts. I would post pics but still havent set up photobucket, hopefully get onto this soon, maybe tonight.

Mtich

[KTM525EXC]

hey Mitch

yeah i see exactly what you mean, yeah i aggree you done it the best / strongest way possible. ill be keen to see what the engineer has to say, i hounstly cant see why it would be a problem.

so your running a 2'' arb lift and 2'' body now with 31''s?

cheers Troy

[amitch888]

Yer 2 inch suspension lift and 2 inch body lift with 31's for the minute, fitted the body lift so I can fit some 33's or maybe 34's under there more comfortably. With all the lift it certainly makes the 31's look a lot smaller then they are, still looks good but bigger rubber would suit it better. Just for a laugh I might even bolt my cheese cutters back on, make them look something like wheel barrow wheels