Fridge/slide/power

[rosco01]

I tried to play safe and look for someone's post on this..... then went looking for my "build up"..... all results failed....
This may not be the place to post the following "novel"..... if not - please move it accordingly.....

We purchased a Waeco CF 50 for our little truck and wanted the slide to go with it.... out of stock....
Went to camping shows and came away without success.....

Finally got to order one in at the best price I had been offered and picked it up a while back...... a Waeco SLD 060 (fits all Waeco's from 35 - 60).... very heavy unit - but comes well built and with enough to hold it in place.....

I wanted to do a bit more with mine - and to anyone who has read my add-on to Steve's tailgate post..... this was an extension (excuse pun) of that.......

When I measured it for fit - it appeared I would have to mount it well inboard of the wheel arch.... taking up more of our valuable storage space (what won't go in the caravan....).
It looked from all angles that this unit belonged in the l/hs rear and suited my needs to re-couperate some lost fluids in transit.....

We have the ARB canopy with all lifting windows - and has now proved to be worthy ..... read on...

I marked out on the floor where it would sit - but sadly .... too big - unless.......
Set to it with a marker pen and studied how/what could be cut away to "fit" it where I wanted it.....

Had to take out about 10mm of the base frame on the rear l/hs corner to get it to fit in behind the wheel arch...
Then had to "bend" the release lever to "square" so that it didn't hit the tailgate when closed.....

At the end of the day - I managed to get the frame base to sit on top of floor runners and in the position I wanted in the first place....... the slide runs out with about 5 mm to clear the body of the tailgate opening.

After making the mods, laid it on the floor and measured out where the mounting holes would go - taking note of what was underneath.....

I ended up drilling nine (9) holes through the runners - only two of which went just at the start of an angle.....
The front and rear mounts on the l/hs are on the flat of the floor and I had to make up spacers to bring the frame to runner height.





I used coach bolts and fitted them from underneath - so as to prevent anyone getting under there with a spanner and undoing them for a quick fridge/slide get-away .......
To seal out the nasties, I gave a generous coating of Sikaflex 221 around the entry holes and to the mounting faces of the coach bolt heads. After fitting, I again went back over every bolt and sealed them again with Sikaflex.

I fitted some heavy (industrial) hard rubber matting to the floor and mounted the slide - flat & spring washers and nut - with Loctite 262 on all threads.....



To prevent the fridge & slide from being "thefted", I wanted the slide to lock in positon .... I did this by drilling through the base and slide and fitting a long-shanked padlock......



I wanted to chain the fridge to the slide and ended up fabricating some 3mm steel plate drilled to the size of the handle mounts at each end - to these, I Tigged the end links of two chains (one front, one rear).

The front chain is held in position by the long padlock - the rear one by another padlock passing through two holes in the rear of the slide body......
Access to the mounting nuts can only be gained with the slide extended....



Now - the bad news........ all well, everything locks, slides etc etc until you put the Waeco cover on - it "fouls" the angled opening of the rear window..... but just.....

Back to the side windows.....

Unless my "conscience" half wants her margarine, salad .... whatever - I am quite content to simply lift up the side window (whilst on tippy toes) and "un-velcro" the cover ... the long way round is to open the tailgate, unlock the front padlock and carefully pull out the slide without rubbing (excuse pun) the rubber seal of the rear window........

End of the day - now with tailgate lock and frildge/slide securely locked in rear of little truck....... now to connect it up..... waiting for reply to Redarc isolator/charger......

Sorry about the "novel".... it's my trait... one day I'll learn...

frats,
Rosco

[Skog07]

Rosco. I have mine in the exact same place.
Took me a bit of fiddling around to get it exactly right. But the slide comes out without fouling the window rubber.
For quick access I go through the back window to gain access to the contents inside the fridge.

Well done mate great write up. You put in the right forum as well.
Cheers
Mark

[ssdsibes]

Excellent write up

You do have to keep your "conscience" happy.

As I'm typing this my "conscience" just said that with no "conscience" we are useless.

Is that right?????

[arrow]

im looking at putting my Engel in the same spot i was goign to bolt the slide in but decided i will after I move from one size od Oz to the other. Ill have more time to set up my ute how i want it when i have a shed I can work in

[rosco01]

Hindsight is a wonderful thing -
I'm now in the process of working out the electricals for the fridge (and to Anderson plug)....
I have added to an existing post on Alternator on this - but may continue along here with my wiring...
This is the other thread..

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=4102

On the outset of what I had envisaged for supplying power to the fridge - I had "dreamed" up some pretty "clever" ways of paying both "Peter and Paul".... sadly, this ended pretty suddenly as people kindly enlightened me to problems with my "dream".......

Please feel most welcome to comment, correct or enlighten me here with anything I post - I have absolutely no qualification or experience to justify what I am about to post.....

I won't post up what I had originally intended, as it now clearly would have been a "nightmare on Elm street" and possibly compromised the integrity of the vehicle's electrical/charging system..... not to mention the underlying fact that it would have probably failed to supply charge to the aux battery regardless.....

At this point in time - what I propose to do is to purchase a RanOx unit (even though not weatherproof) and fit it in the tub of my little truck - aside the auxiliary battery (or at least very close to).

I have not made any investigations into this battery as yet - or how to mount/cover this battery - I believe these are probably going to be easier "fixes" than the supply/charge issues currently under investigation....

I intend to run substantial leads (pos and neg) from a engine bay mounted battery board (don't know what they are called) which will be fused between vehicle battery and board - through PVC tubing and along the l/hs to the tub. This will be cable tied at intervals of around 100 mm (maybe closer) and fitted out of "harms" way - most likely through the chassis as suggested elsewhere....

From the aux battery, my intention is to run supply leads (fused) to the Waeco fridge power supply and leave it on voltage switching - this should protect the fridge from low voltage.....

I am led to believe the RanOx unit will furnish all charging needs whilst the alternator is providing an output.... along with a "number" of other options, including "reverse direction" to the vehicle battery if needed..... I have much more to read on this - and if I continue now, will only throw up speculation.....

I also intend (at some later stage) to make use of the auxiliary battery for charging purposes to our van
( this is where the Anderson plug connection will be needed) - I don't know specifically what is fitted to the van and have been led to believe I may need an additional RanOx unit within the "boot" of the van for this purpose - it must be located in close proximity of the battery or voltage drop may cause charge failure....

For now, dear readers - this is where I'm at - and await further advice before making any purchases or ordering.....

i could, of course - simply connect the Waeco power supply to the vehicle's battery - and it would most likely work fine.... as I have heard from others who have years of happy service in this manner....
I don't know for how long these new "smart alternators" have been fitted to our little trucks - I can however suggest that if voltage drop is sufficient (for whatever reason) to the power unit switched to "engine on" setting - you may end up with less than acceptable operation of your fridge......

all replies/suggestions welcomed....

frats,
Rosco

[rodw]

Rosco, a good start, I think you have your head around this now. I am planning on doing exactly the same thing eventually. Adding a third battery in the rear and locating the Ranox under the drawer unit (unless I replace the ARB isolator with a Redarc at the front). At this point in time, the issue is not important as I have yet to have a flat fridge battery. However, I will say my Aux battery ARB put in is pretty well stuffed after just 18 months when checked with a hydrometer after full charging. I suspect the poor charging has had an influence in this. The engine battery on the other hand is 95%-100% charged at any time.

I think you should be able to route your cable encased in some hose of some kind for additional protection through the centre of the chassis rail. It is open at the rear and there are some good sized holes conveniently placed in the chassis to gain access at the front. My current wiring (and there is a lot of it) is tied to the brake line down the left chassis rail. Most of this will be removed once I replace the main lead and it will be distributed from the rear.

[rosco01]

Thanks Rod,
we seem to be running a continual conversation on these two threads - probably driving everyone else mad...... I'm happy to stay with it - as i'm picking up heaps from your replies......
I was warned with my old Holden not to use cable ties on brake lines - they will wear through the line - not straight away - but there's no "give" in them - the lines to expand and contract - ever so marginally - but they do and this is the route cause of failure where they are fitted.......

Yes, left hand side and chassis rails - I'll probably exit at the front of the tub and run up the internal wall through there - I haven't had a look out there yet - only from memory - but my fridge (as above) in l/hs rear and i would like to keep all electricals down one side or the other.... tailgate project set this precedent and will attempt to keep all the rest on the same side........

I note you are considering the RedArc - I was heading down that track for a while - but this one came up and will probably keep it to just one unit - the van has a "smart charger" fitted - and should accept a sizeable lead from the auxiilary battery - if needed - I may have to look at providing an isolator to separate the aux in the tub and the van - that's a long way off from here...... and very likely to cause enough problems when I get to that part of the layout..... for now - it's basically fridge and I believe the RanOx is probably more suitable for my application......

Yes, can understand your frustration at your existing arrangement as supplied - we've come a long way in a short time - and technology has provided many alternative answers..... it is beyond me that sometimes we appear to be receiving this "technology" either at the same time or "before" those who should have access to it..... I don't believe a 3rd party professional company should be now fitting superseded equipment/devices which have proved to be insufficient to needs..... but, what would I know - this is week two of my research - and I possess not one jot of qualification or basis on which to profess any theory......

I would like to receive information from the other isolator/charger company that by fitting one of their units - it does not alter the "ECU" output as designated for the vehicle battery - I noted one post above suggesting that this had in fact increased voltage whilst the aux battery was under charge - my understanding (rightly or not) that an isolator should afford independence of charging both batteries.... that is, singularly....... I would be concerned if the isolator saw both batteries as separate "banks" and chose to charge them both regardless of the charge state of either...... I may have this wrong - and would appreciate some confirmation that this is not the case......

I understand the unit I have probably chosen will afford the vehicle battery charging system to run as designed - and it is the unit which will actually "boost" the voltage from the "output" to the auxiliary - not to increase or place a demand on the supply from the alternator......

Obviously, if the demand exceeds ability to hold the float voltage - and a load demand causes this float to drop - the regulator will increase supply as in the scenario of turning on headlamps etc.....

It probably sounds a bit gobbeldy-gook, Rod - but it's how I have managed to "package" my understanding between the two units..... as stated - probably unfounded......

I've nearly run out of screen ink for one day - but will come on again early this evening to follow up....

frats,
Rosco

ps - yes, search continuing for larger tubing - just sufficient to cater for B & S 2......

[rodw]

Rosco

If you wanted to enter the tub at the front, consider running the cable into the cabin and along under the door sills (where there are cable securing clips already) and exit the cabin via the rubber grommet that is used for the fuel filler cable. That gets you under the tub so you can come up through the floor. This would let you fit the Ranox under the seat on the way past or mount it behind the rear seat (If you did the backseat fold down mod to get access).

I have not really looked at this stuff, I will either put Ranox in the back or Redarc under the hood when I eventually get to redo that side of it. Shame the Ranox is not weatherproof.

Personally though, I'd run the wires to the back and come up on the outside of the tub behind the rear wheel and drill a hole like ARB did though the side when they fitted this. This would be fitted nice and close to your fridge where they put it. The wires enter from the outside of the tub into the rear of this box. This is what I am taking off to be replaced by gear on the end panel of my drawers.

[rosco01]

Thanks Rod,
I suppose they would have done enough of these by now to have found the most suitable location - and i will certainly try to follow this direction.

Now my final update for this evening - I have not long returned home .... read on....

It would now appear that I am about to go down the RanOx unit path - I was very fortunate to enjoy over two hours with Alan Oxenbould at his premises in Lilydale - he was most helpful and informative - I have learned very much from his patient explanation and demonstration of this particular unit. I do not believe a complete understanding of the capabilities of the unit has been stated - and my explanation and links to material come with his blessings....

I have now copies of plotted charts displaying battery voltages, temperatures and probably more importantly the alternator output and vehicle battery temperature of a D-4D engine (Prado).....

I can now appreciate that it is more appropriate to fit an auxiliary battery away from the engine compartment... and likewise - the charger/booster unit - this one in particular.

The RanOx website is not hosted - (or something to that extent) and as such only the three pages of brief explanation can be viewed.

I have come away with the manual, fitting instructions and wiring diagrams for many applications of this unit.

It has five different selectable operating programs which can be called up - depending on application.... each to serve a different demand - but all primarily to charge an auxiliary battery - be it tug or van.....

Probably the most critical part of what I learned today was concerning fridges - particularly those fitted to caravans - they are current monsters.... and if not disconnected when the vehicle engine is stopped - will drain the vehicle battery in a very short time....... the RanOx unit has provision for this..

It also comes with a diagnostic display - and faults are retained in long term factory only memory.....

It comes with a battery temperature sensor - which RanOx determines if battery is in danger of damage to charging at an unacceptable temperature (both hot and cold).....
There are provisions for slow ramp up charging of a flat battery, along with user programmable "float" settings.
The amount of current can also be programmed - if not stated, Alan suggests a 25% of capacity be used.... ie - 25 amps to a 100 amp deep cycle battery....

As for location - I was shown how voltage will drop off over distance - and this is quite significant - hence the requirement to have aux battery and RanOx close to one another in a tug application - van's of course are a different proposition - the suggestion was to mount RanOx in the van - in lieu of the usual "smart charger".... this unit far out performs that currently being fitted to caravans..... the earlier cruder ones - the latter "smart chargers" are not so far back - but this unit has capabilities beyond them.....

A function available with RanOx is to "master load off" under certain conditions - remove all demand from the aux battery..... along with engine off (low alternator output) disconnection to supply (engine alternator/vehicle battery) - I expect this is the equivalent of the "isolator" function of other units......

I was assured - and re-assured -that if fitted correctly (three leads and a battery probe) I would not compromise the integrity of the existing vehicle electrical system.... basically , if there is not enough output from the vehicle - RanOx stops demand.

I was also shown that it does not create any battery "bank" combining the vehicle battery to the aux battery whilst charging - I was particularly concerned on this as I did not want the sophisticated ( and it is extremely so - there are many parameters with which the ECU determines what output demand eventuates from the alternator - one I had not considered was exhaust temperature...... but many, many more)..... but would draw only what voltage was available as supplied by the vehicles ECU setting.....

I spent some time bashing my head against a brick wall trying to understand how 13.2 v could create 14.5 v... and up until this afternoon was of the opinion it must be "inverted" then rectified back.... of course, this would have meant a great current draw - perhaps 1500 w or more for the inverter stage....but finally, the great light shone and it became obvious that this was done "electronically"..... by integrated circuits....

It was shown to me how distance from the supply battery (vehicle) to RanOx ultimately determined voltage supply to the unit - and as a direct consequence - the lower the supply voltage, the lower the voltage charge... amperage was, however - constant - depending on what was programmed in (as above ....25% rule)....

I have been promised many charts in .xls in a zipped format - and have been granted permission to pass them on to all who may be interested....

The manufacturing factory is in Cobram - they only have two outlets - Lilydale and Cobram....

I will be taking possession of mine early next week.... I am a little disappointed that i did not get the opportunity to delve deeper into the RedArc unit - this one, I am very confident will more than account for my needs - both with the little truck - and also later on with the van.....

Another function available - as supplied - is to use the truck's aux battery to re-charge a van's ...... this can be set in a time format or voltage cut off.
What it means is that if you are out camping free... no mains or gen - and are doing little trips - town, shopping, day trips etc - you can couple up to your van and charge the van battery with the aux in the truck..... there are restrictions, but basically it means you may get an extra day or two out of your van or camp batteries.......

Mounting requirements for RanOx are that is is NOT engine bay mounted (it has an over-temperature function) nor should it be mounted face down - there will be insufficient cooling to pass through the unit.
It has a cooling fan which operates when the unit reaches a factory set temperature...
All later units now have a re-defined algorithm for determining charge rates/periods.

I was told that 6 B & S would be ample (13.5mm2) for my application - but agreed I would not in any way complicate installation by using heavier grades - this remains my intention.....

The serial number is logged electronically and cannot be changed.

Happy to answer any further questions - don't for one minute consider that I actually know anything..... this is all as I have tried to understand what was explained this afternoon....

I have spent most of the day on this machine (two in fact... with this and other forums)... I probably need to leave you all alone for a while .... but my quest will continue.... should have some more in a couple of days...

frats,
Rosco

[rosco01]

Ok everyone,
just got permission from RanOx to post up their current owners manual ..... so - how do I do it? -
it's in PDF and 857 kb.

I have posted pix before - and sent attachments in emails - but as to posting PDF's in threads..... I'm stuck...

I don't understand every detail of the programs and variables in it - but for those interested, it may very well satisfy questions which I cannot answer....

We hope to have our unit next week - and from there will commence down the long path in making it functional....

We have also been asked to subject our Hi-lux D-4D for testing and plotting both pre- and post RanOx.... crank battery and aux.... it should give people an understanding of what actually happens in the systems..... on our Hi-luxes...

They plot alternator/batteries voltages, temperatures and amperages - I have viewed plots of the Prado D-4D and am amazed at the temperatures which exist in the battery under the bonnet.....
I believe it mainly for this reason (along with dust and water) that it is categorically stated not to fit the unit in the engine bay..... I have also noted how an engine bay mounted aux battery is affected by this temperature.....

Let me know how to post up the PDF... I'm pretty confident it may give some a much better understanding of what's involved in fitting and maintaining an aux battery - both in the tug and also in a trailer/van....

frats,
Rosco

[rosco01]

Ok folk,
here goes...... RodW has kindly made possible the posting of the RanOx manual..... if this doesn't work - it will be my dumb headed inability to follow his suggestions....

thanks Rod,

frats,
Rosco

http://www.vehiclemods.net.au/docs/RanO ... v_4H1m.pdf

[rosco01]

Ok folk, a little more of the puzzle has just been put into place...

For those who I have probably created much concern about over-charging tug batteries...... it is apparently unfounded.... my humble apologies...

I have had a long discussion this afternoon, and have been "educated" a little more on some makes of current DC-DC charging units - and feel I must enlighten those who I have concerned.....

Modern DC- DC charging units - other than the most basic of a simple solenoid arrangement to connect two batteries in parallel - should have inbuilt "smart" technology - and should avoid overcharging of the tug battery.

I am further led to believe that these "smart" units - do not affect credibility of the vehicle crank battery charging system....

Hopefully this will relieve what fears or confusion that I have most likely created... and apologise profusely for any concern....

I am still hopeful that some of the more technically minded and senior members of this forum will reply to this and inform us as to how other brands (other than the one I have been in research with) effect charging of an auxiliary battery whilst the unit "draws" its current from the tug battery/charging system.....

I understand quite a bit more about the RanOx unit - and have become even more impressed with its functions/features.....

once again, folk - my humble apologies for any concerns....

frats,
Rosco

[rosco01]

Ok, another follow up - this time concerning running power to the tub.....

I spent some time this afternoon in amazement under the bonnet of an '07 Prado.
This vehicle is used extensively for towing off road - and hauls a Kamper...
Most of the cooking/heating/hot water in the Kamper are diesel, but it needs a considerable amount of power to ignite - and, needs supplementary to keep these systems in operation..

The person spends weeks off road and has gone to very extensive methods to accomodate these needs.

This vehicle has the tug battery in the engine bay - but affords plenty of cool air to keep it at charging temperature... the DC - DC charger, however - is located under one of the seats....

I spent some considerable time discussing the systems fitted, and how they serve varying purposes......

There are an array of relays, fuses and cabling running throughout the vehicle...

Batteries receive charge from various inputs - DC-DC, solar, and mains (via a C-tek smart charger - a 7000, I believe..... the "7" I expect relates to the 7 amp charging current.....?)

My interest focused on how power was sent from the tug battery through the DC-DC charger to the auxiliary battery.....
I also took particular notice of how supply from the aux battery was controlled and through what outputs....

In this application, two "smart" relays (all fused) detected engine running (output) status.
These relays made connections from the tug battery to a "bus bar" in the rear of the vehicle.

When there wasn't an output from the alternator, the relays opened removing supply from the tug battery to the "bus"......
At the same time, other relays closed and made connection to this "bus" from the auxiliary battery......

In short, this is what I believe many have done using varying charger/solenoid units.....

With this system, the "bus" provided means of both supply and charge.

In alternator current supply state, power from the tug's battery went to the bus where, by permanent connection provided power to Anderson plug and also to the input of the DC-DC charger - charging the aux battery...

In the non-alternator supply state, opening of these two relays removed the tug's battery and connected the aux battery to the bus...... yes, I know what you are now thinking..... which also supplied charging of itself.......no! - fear not.....

This particular unit, has two leads which control two load change-over relays .... it is by one of these relays which disconnect the "charge" line to the DC-DC charger....

so far so good?

Now the interesting bits....

There are also two "rocket launch" switches fitted, one which can totally disconnect both batteries from the bus circuit - or connect both batteries in parallel (for emergency starting purposes).

Amongst other relays, fuses and associated wiring - I was told the system can actually supply current from a solar panel to the aux battery via the Anderson plug..... this was now starting to get beyond my comprehension....

For my application, although I have not drawn it out yet, I am considering what I posted in an earlier part of this thread - apparently it wasn't as too far fetched as I later concluded......

My intention is again to run heavy leads from the tug battery (pos and neg)to the tub.
The positive will run directly (via fuses at both ends) to a tub mounted bus.

Power will be supplied to the RanOx unit (yes, picked it up today) for charging the aux battery from the bus.

Two load change-over wires from the unit (one energised when tug current in charge state, the other when not) will control two relays to connect the bus to RanOx and the other to fridge/Anderson plug - (engine running).

The other relay will - supply power to fridge by an additional 6 B & S lead when engine stopped

I have yet to draw and map this circuit out - and there will most likely be changes to simplify it - possibly make use of fewer relays....

At the end of the day, I should end up with a system which will neither flatten the tug battery when engine is off - yet afford power to the portable fridge from the aux battery at the same time.
The Anderson plug connection should not adversely effect supply to RanOx by connection to the bus via relay - and only when the engine is running.

I have not made any provision for connecting Aux battery to tug battery for emergency starting purposes....
In my simplest design - RanOx can "transfer" aux charge to a third party battery - I am hoping that I can utilise the tug battery for this purpose - which may require disconnecting it..... as stated - emergency.....
This part of the project is still a little "hazy".....

I hope to draw out a circuit diagram and post it before much longer - it may take the form of a scanned document ......

frats,
Rosco

[rosco01]

Ok, just an update.....
Still picking up bits and pieces for installation - may have found a better way to run relays - fewer leads and a much smaller coil on the relay in use when running on aux battery (engine off).

Purchased a C-tek x15000 battery charger on evilbay last night for $260 (including P& H ... express post)..

Anyone have any comments on these units ?
I believe you can simply leave them connected.... very handy on my other vehicle which rarely sees the light of day.... since picking up the Hi-lux.....

frats,
Rosco

[9W6VX]

Rosco,

I can't help much on this topic but no need for the apologies. No harm done.

[rosco01]

Ok time to start work on the electrics again..... had my "rest'.

Have made up a distribution panel for the engine bay - fitted it to the l/hs inner guard.
It has two 70A resettable circuit breakers (Jaycar) and one enclosed brass bus bar with 13 outlets of differing size.
Power will run independently to both c/bkers from the two accessory bolts on the battery terminal.

From there - one to the bus assembly, the other only to RanOx (yet to be mounted in tub).

Two positive 4 B&S cables and one 4 B&S earth through convoluted conduit (flat ribbed) - engine bay to tub.

Earth will connect (4 B&S) from crank battery/body bolt in engine bay to chassis, tub, tub aux battery and Anderson plug earths.

Tub distribution panel of UHWPE (white chopping board) mounted in tub wall recess.

On this, RanOx, and load change-over relay system (RanOx controlled).
RanOx inputs are - directly from fitted crank battery 70A circuit breaker (pos) and separate earth lead direct to aux battery (RanOx has to "read" the voltage across the aux battery without any bias from other devices).

There will also be a 6 B&S pos lead from the load changeover relay (with output from engine alternator RanOx determined) to a 50A Anderson Plug (caravan power input) and likewise from load change-over relay to "power" pin of trailer socket (caravan absorption fridge).

Engine bay nearly completed, waiting for delivery of large (very) terminal crimper to commence running cables/conduits.
These will commence at tub end of project and terminate at engine bay distribution panel.

frats,
Rosco

[rodw]

Glad it's coming together Rosco. The research you have done will pay off and you will have a great setup for a long time.

Will you have an AUX battery under the tub? Does not sound like it.

[rosco01]

Hi Rod,
I hope I am doing this correctly - have put a bit of thought into it... but likely to make amendments as required.

No - aux will be in tub - have dedicated l/hs (1/3rd) of tub floor to fridge, aux batt, compressor kit and tyre repair kit. Centre and r/hs will be required for what spills over in excess weight from the caravan..... and a couple/few 20 litre diesel fuel containers...... Oz trip only.....

thanks - will post more up as it moves along - back on the "mission" after a few weeks sorting other matters out.....

frats,
Rosco

[rosco01]

Ok folk,
for those interested.... just completed the largest portion and most difficult stage of this.....
Will post some pix up when I upload them....

I now have the engine bay completed.
I have fitted 25 mm OD (20 mm ID) electrical convulated conduit successfully from the upper l/hs front mudguard shield through to the first indentation of the l/hs tub.

I managed to get two 4 B&S and one 6 B&S through the conduit. I ran 4 B&S earth along side and cable tied it.
All passages where the conduit ran through were either rubber grommetted or sadle clamped.

Chassis earth was made under the front l/hs corner of the tub. A second earth lead runs up to a terminal bolt in the tub. Battery earth originated at terminal body earth in the engine bay.

All leads were terminated using industrial terminals by crimping, silver solder (tips only after crimping) and heat shrink tubing.

Crimping was made by 8 tonne hex crimper (new on ebay for $74.95 delivered) in two runs - each one at offset to each other.

I have measured unloaded voltages and there is a drop of only .01 volt at the tub.... I have not done these using loads yet.....

More when I upload cam pix.

frats,
Rosco

ps - great care was taken to keep conduit and leads away from all brake lines, fuel pipes and any other "wear" intolerant areas.....

[Pids]

Just one thing make sure your tub is earthed, when i installed rear work lights on the tub in my old ute the tub wasn't earthed.
Regards
Pete