Sway Bar Removal

[scottsr20]

My brother had this set-up on his previously ifs 2004 hilux . I've been working on refining this for our model as the cv is under the end of the link so if the travel down the bolt is too far it will tear the boot. The thing to remember is if there is say 50mm the swaybar end can slide on the bolt , then this is 50mm BEFORE the swaybar starts to work . I added a spring on the shaft of the bolt to help return the swaybar to make it easier to get the R-clip back in .

[scottsr20]

Oops . Ignore my last post . I just realised that the pic is a refinement of my old design. I had the R clip and the sliding section on the upright , not sliding at the swaybar end , which worked on the gen 4 but not so good on ours. I'll be changing mine to same as that pic . Thanks Maxx.

[tonymtber]

I decided to take mine off last weekend & at the same time put some stiffer springs in the front.

On road, I cant really tell any difference...if there was any more body roll without the sway bar, the stiffer springs have more than compensated for it.

Off road, there is a heap more wheel travel....it certainly feels more like a 4wd with much more wheel articulation. I tried a small rocky climb on my property & there is a spot where I can really cross up the suspension to test wheel travel.....previously it would just wheel spin as soon as the suspension maxed out....this time it just walked through!

I certainly wont be putting the sway bars back on

[Hilux Max]

did you get more uptravel tony?

I found I got more uptravel which exascerbated the rubbing...probably wouldnt be much of a problem with 32's or smaller but with 33's it went against me.

Just keep an eye out on your cv's binding up with a little bit more down travel. yes, swaybar removal will get the front end working better.....but beware in case of an accident, they may pin the removed swaybar on you as a reason for anything.

[tonymtber]

Yes definitely, but I haven't had a chance to do any measuring....it was all by "feel". I'm running 265's so I don't have any rubbing problems.

Not to fussed about the legalities,....with the other questionable mods & different rim/tyre size the vehicle is far from being standard. I'm sure that if they looked very closely at many 4wd's they would be defected!

Out of interest, what offset rims are you running with 285's? I was toying with the idea of 285's on 0 offset rims

[KTM525EXC]

I found exactly what Tony is saying with the swaybar removed I gain near 4" off up travel that I can never get with the swaybar connected. Hence why I take it off when offroading. The 32" tyre is about 3/4 off an inch away from fowling on the top of the flare on full uptravel when the LCA is resting on the bumpstops

Cheers Troy

[KTM525EXC]

i also have HD springs fitted up front, if my springs were softer i ''may'' get more uptravel with the swaybar fitted, but i recon its well worth the trouble removing it for offroading IMHO

cheers Troy

[scottsr20]

I have been running some swaybar disconnects on mine and it does free up some travel (every bit helps with IFS )
And then you can do this . If you look closely the swaybar is all the way up the link . The problem I'm having is when the R-clips are in and driving on the road , the link can rotate until the R-clip is above the swaybar , then if it articulates down the R-clip gets bent and is difficult to remove. Still a work in progress.

[KTM525EXC]

very intresting scott im very keen keep us updated

[Bourbydol]

x2, the first person/ppl to bringout the first workable(idiot proof) swaybar disconect will earn $$$....

[KTM525EXC]

you can see on the 2nd & 3rd pic the good wheen travel Scott is getting by the imprint of the bumpstop on the LCA

[KTM525EXC]

Hey Scott this may fix the problem your facing, how bout instead of using a rclip, use a slightly larger diameter bolt and fittings and machine in a small groove for a circlip to clip into then it will support around the whole fitting when on the road and remove the circlip when offroad?
That is if I have pictured your problem correctly lol

Cheers Troy

[Steve9R]

or..

tap a hole in the top and fit an allen key headed small bolt to stop it spinning.


Steve

[scottsr20]

A circlip would solve the prob but be harder to get in and out once everything gets muddy. I'm not sure where you wanna put the allen headed bolt steve, but the heims actually rotate in their housings -not just the bolt within them, so anything that restricts their motion will restirct their motion so to speak ? ( did that make sense to anyone else ? )

[KTM525EXC]

A circlip would solve the prob but be harder to get in and out once everything gets muddy. I'm not sure where you wanna put the allen headed bolt steve, but the heims actually rotate in their housings -not just the bolt within them, so anything that restricts their motion will restirct their motion so to speak ? ( did that make sense to anyone else ? )

Yeah true, also you would need to take a pair of circlip pliers everywhere, have you got these on both sides of the swaybar?

[Hilux Max]

That looks like it would damage the driveshaft boot on compression.



good on ya for giving it a go thou......bit of ingenuity never goes astray.

[Skog07]

That looks like it would damage the driveshaft boot on compression.



good on ya for giving it a go thou......bit of ingenuity never goes astray.

Very, very clever...
Im impressed....
Best go and patent this.... I see a kit soon....
What if you were to use a larger diameter sliding bolt. Say 16mm and use a much larger lock pin.

Cheers
Skog

[scottsr20]

How can it damage the boot Maxx ? Unless I'm missing something , the bolt that the swaybar slides up and down is fixed to the stub axle , so unless it snaps off the distance between it and the cv boot never changes ? I can't see any where else that it can get closer to the boot , and I've tested it offroad - see my post in the past trips and it hasn't touched anything .On compression the swaybar slides back to the bottom of the bolt and sits in its factory position , thats why I didn't post any pics of it - looks basically factory - except for the heims ! If it goes bad I will let you know , but so far so good ...
This set up is on both sides , as it only allows for the swaybar to travel in one direction, you need both to allow equal travel for both wheels . As for the 16mm bolt and the lock pin, I like the theory of " if its broken make it bigger " I use it all the time . The rod ends ( and therefore the size of all the componentry ) was chosen because it gave the right offset for the link ( the bolt ) to stand up in a position that suited the travel of the swaybar. If the rod ends are bigger to suit a larger bolt , they push the link over and when the swaybar slides up, it binds, either braking something or, more likely just not travelling up the bolt. With a bit more research, I could possibly find different rod ends to fit, price being the other factor. Some of the larger rod ends are over $100.00 each where as everthing I used came to not much over $130.00. There are cheaper rod ends available, but the consistency of there quality was questionable. I was thinkin of just
zip tying the r-clip loosely to the swaybar so it can't rotate (hi-tech, hey ? ) until I get a better solution .

[Hilux Max]

my bad....wasnt paying attention to the sliding part of the setup....you'd have to make sure the bottom nut is strong for if this ever breaks due to the froces of the suspension some serious damage could occur.

yeah i seen the past travels post, you wouldnt be doing that track if it didnt work....good stuff.

[Jack S]

Max that sway away mod thats shown above, us with 33" tyres or the like cant do this as there is far too much rubbing with the extra travel. Is that correct with the trails you have preformed?