Sway Bar Removal

[KTM525EXC]

The whole bar has to come out jack because as the suspension cycles it would rip the cv boots if it was left to "flap around" among damaging other components. Sadly it's not like a live axel where you can just zippy tie it out the way lol

[Jack S]

Yea that's what I was assuming would happen Troy, but thought it wouldn't hurt to ask the question!
Thought I might remove it for this weekend and see how much better it is! But I first better take it off and do a couple of tests to do with the extra up travel...

I guess this is where a quick disconnect would be awesome

[Hilux Max]

removing it "may" give you more problems jack......testing it fiorst is the wise thing to do....you might find you will need to fit an extended bumpstop to stop your tyre hitting the inner guard. so you still maintain clearance and indepdnant operation of one side with the other.

[Jack S]

Yea if I do decide to take it off max, I'll do it on Saturday and have a little play around, see if I am hitting the guard etc etc, is it only the quard that I will have to look at?
I it does hit guard I got some big washers here I can fit anyway to the bump stops...

[KTM525EXC]

Jack off road it's awesome without the sway bar the lux feels heaps more stable when on scary angles because the extra 2 or so inches up up travel. I take mine off every time I go hard wheeling. Can't wait for disconnects to become available

[Jack S]

Yea I might whip it off on Sunday and do a little trail run just to make sure I ain't running into too much trouble with that guard!

[KTM525EXC]

Yeah that's a must!! then you will be able to check the clearance on the tyre with full compression on the inner guard as well as the top of the flare.

[Sinan]

I have been running some swaybar disconnects on mine and it does free up some travel (every bit helps with IFS )
And then you can do this . If you look closely the swaybar is all the way up the link . The problem I'm having is when the R-clips are in and driving on the road , the link can rotate until the R-clip is above the swaybar , then if it articulates down the R-clip gets bent and is difficult to remove. Still a work in progress.

anyone know who can makes these bad boys up for me?

[Jack S]

Mate pm Scott and see if he is happy to source the parts for you and send them down!

[helmut79]

I think Tuff Lux Offroad do a set drop them an email

[scottsr20]

Apologies up front for hijacking your build Dan, but I just wanted to reinforce the point to others who haven't tried these that the whole point to the way I've set up these links ( maybe disconnects is a bit misleading ) is that they still engage the sway bar - just later than usual. The swaybar travels freely to the end of the link and then starts its usual activity . It would have been easier to just chuck out the sway bar but then you would have the situation as Maxx points out that in certain load points the tyre still crashes into the flare. If I jump my hilux I can hit both flares but I rarely rub on the flare offroad through flex as the swaybar is still active at the end of its travel . Anyway, sorry for the hijack, I'll quote this over to the swaybar removal thread if anyone wants to continue this sidetrack over there.

[Hilux Max]

so your saying scott your setup pretty much allows both sides/axles to work more independantly of one another as if there wasnt a swaybar there (thou there still is) but towards the limit of uptravel the rod you have afixed to the swaybar engages the swaybar itself limiting the last small portion of uptravel.

sound bout right?

[scottsr20]

Yeah, more reduces the rate of travel . Your swaybar really just adds spring rate at an equal yet opposing rate to the strut opposite. All the links I have done allow is for this action to be delayed , not lost. I have spent a bit of time fine tuning the amout of "delay" ( the length of travel up the link ) and whilst I'm sure you can still bottom the car out , I've tried to come up with the best compromise between articulation and control . My work bench has quite a pile of junked prototypes already.

[8608]

some great info an ideas about the SB D/C.

has anyone had a look at setting something up like the Heep JK rubicons?

there are some pics of it here:
http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48271

and apparently the electric motor crap out, so there is a manual set up:
http://www.sbroffroad.com.au/index.php? ... uct_id=162
they also have a youtube clip of it.

if there were someway to cut the sway bar in half, and a mechanism to lock and unlock both halves, i reckon that might be easier and more subtle towards the authorities.

[Jack S]

Scott with your setup, are you confident that the parts will hold up to the pressure that the sway bar itself puts on your disconnect? Because if something let's go, shit would hit the fan extremely quick....

[scottsr20]

Jack' Please induldge me and take your swaybar off and drive around the block and then tell me what shit will hit what fan mate. I've driven around with mine on for about 15000 ks, I run 33s and town a 1.5 tonne trailer every day and then put half to three quarters of a tonne of gear in the tray and they seem to be holding up ok. Having said that, no I'm not confident and thats why I'm not advertising them for sale - I was actually more bragging about what I had done. I don't mean for that to sound harsh Jack, maybe we should wait for someone else to try them and see what they think, as an unbiased opinion?

[Jack S]

Scott I wasn't doubtin you or your opinion at all, it was just a question I wanted to ask and you answered it directly to the point, so thankyou for that, but was alittle harsh
I just thought that if that bottom nut let go that the swaybar would go down fare enough and hit the cv. Sayin that I don't 100% know the full range of the cv, so maybe my above statement is totally wrong....

Anyway man, I am all up for what you got there, definately want a setup.....!

[scottsr20]

Sorry Jack, typing is a second language for me and I find it hard to convey fact without sounding condescending or even harsh without facial expression.
The "bottom nut" your refering to is the head of the bolt , which in this case is a 10.9 grade bolt I used back in version 2.3. I now use a 12.9 grade socket head - off the top of my head I think the tensile yeild on a 12.9 is around 1100- 1200 mpa, its definitely over 1000 . I am no expert in the field of metalurgy but if you are putting enough strain through your suspension to exert 1200+ mpa on the sway bar end link ( which remember is only connected "elastically" via the swaybar, its not a direct mechanical connection, like a driveshaft ) i'd say there are a few other coponents in your front end you should be having a serious look at.
Anyways I appreciate the support, I'm happy with how they work for me .

[matt1234]

Does anyone know if the sway bar can just be unbolted and swung up into wheel well if there are sway bar reloactors installed and then the bar could be attached to inside of wheel well, or there not enough room for this. I did try this with out without relocators and it looks close.

[KTM525EXC]

Does anyone know if the sway bar can just be unbolted and swung up into wheel well if there are sway bar reloactors installed and then the bar could be attached to inside of wheel well, or there not enough room for this. I did try this with out without relocators and it looks close.

I'm pretty sure it can't be done because on full lock and up travel it will foul on the tyre.