SR507 wrote:hi guys,
I to am a tad mechanically challenged and am really grateful for the step by step guides you guys pass on.
One question though, Ive noticed that when im braking on a downhill slope and my tyre hits a crease in the road ( where old bitumen meets new) my brakes tend to sort of give way and then shudder back on! sounds terrible and feels much the same, could this have something to do with the rear brakes not being adjusted properly.
It seems to only happen when the front wheels hit the crease.
ultimate wrote:After market Shoes can be purchased from most auto shops. Pretty much everything else is genuine. If the whole assembly is a write off, you are probably better off looking at a rear disc conversion. Probably cheaper than an assembly from Toyota.
Hey you guys down under that know a good vehicle when you drive one. I thought I would give this a try. I have 3 problems with my 06 3.0 D4D intercooled turbo, 83000 K. 1. The "almost empty" fuel tank warning light in the instrument panel is on at all times. It used to flicker sometimes when I would go around a sharp corner and then one day, months ago, it stayed on when I started the truck. What do I do? 2. When I started the truck 2days ago the ABS brake light wouldn't go out. Stays on at all times. This happened the 1st time I started it after I stupidly left the ignition switch on and ran the battery COMPLETELY dead and then had to charge it over nite. I know you all will laugh and think how stupid can this guy be but have to tell the whole story just in case it might be a factor as to why the light stays on all the time. Here goes, when I originally hooked the battery charger to the battery .. I was in a hurry and because the truck was parked outside my garage and it was raining and I have a very long jumper cable I hooked it up wrong on my spare battery in the garage. Reversed polarity. I heard some strange noises coming from the engine compartment and realized what I had done and jerked the cable after a time lapse of about 20 seconds. Anyway, I don't know if that has anything to do with the ABS lite on at all times or not. I wondered if my 4 wheel ABS was working now so I took it for a test drive in the mountains where I live in Panama. When I slammed on the brakes on a downhill road covered with pine needles it surely seemed to be working or I noticed pulsating as it came to a sudden stop. It's kind of difficult to tell for sure but I did it a few times and notice the tire tracks look like there is skipping as there should be. What do I do? 3. A few wks. ago I started noticing a squealing, screeching noise towards the front of the engine. It comes and goes and I'm unable to pinpoint exactly where it is coming from. It sounds like a dry or bad bearing on one of the many pulleys. It's not the water pump. The noise has changed its tone over time. I live in a very remote location in the mountains with no repair garage near by. I can't simply take it to someone and say fix it as it doesn't make the noise at all times. Is there anything that is common like this that I could tell someone or could fix myself. I'm good at auto repair. I have no manual for it. I don't want a breakdown on the back roads here as there is no such thing as a tow truck. I love this truck .. the best I've had coming off a farm in Iowa US and have owned many trucks in my life. Thank you anyone for any advise.9W6VX wrote:I adjusted my rear brakes at home just now.
Put it on the jack stands and the rear wheels were spinning freely.
I adjusted it 4 clicks each side and when I rotate the wheels there is a slight drag now with one hand spinning the wheel. The screwdriver should be levered down and there are 2 rubber plugs. The top rubber plug is the one to adjust the brakes.
Noticed that after adjusting the rear brakes, the hand brake now has about 5 clicks to the normal up position. It was initially at 7 clicks.
Further to this i did a search and found that there is another way to adjust the rear brakes. When reversing pump the brake pedal and the rear brakes should auto adjust themselves. Don't know if it works that way.
Thanks for the tip guys.
Need to see the optician to change to bifocal lens as found it difficult to see the small little hole.
Diegothecat wrote:well iv had some issues with my diff of late and after toyota fixed the issues of oil leaking they but my car on their brake test rig. What difference it has made!! the car pulles up so level now and there is no worried feeling when braking hard.
Not too sure what it is worth to put the car on one as it was done under warranty but it what ever the cost it would be worth it.
the rig is a track that the car runs over and when the wheels hit a certain section they brake and the computer sences how the car is pulling up or not and tells the mechanic what side to adjust. Love the brakes now.
GUB881 wrote:Jeff80, we have had a couple of problems with the rear brakes with the lux's on site. Did everything look ok when you pulled the drum off? Sometimes the keepers can come adrift or the wheel cylinders get full of crap on the thread so they fell like they are adjusting up but they are restricted. Pull the left side off and double check every thing looks the same. Also make sure that there is no oil leaks as oil on the shoe's can create a head ache.
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