Need a new radiator, aftermarket or stock?

[Danny_01]

Hi guys,

So I was driving on the high way yesterday and all of a sudden my a/c stopped working, stopped and found my engine bay coated in coolant, cars at toyota now and they claim that i need a new radiator, apparently a stock or stick flicked up and damaged it.

they want $1000 all up for fitting a new radiator, coolant, and drive belt (it was coated in coolant). what i want to know is if there is a better aftermarket radiator for my hilux? may as well upgrade it now since i have to change it anyways, or is the factory one the best one for cooling?

Thanks guys

Danny

[fracturedranga]

far out $1000 sounds a bit rich, personally i would just pick up a 2nd hand stocky from the wreckers and do it yourself, if youve never had any over heating dramas do you really need to upgrae to an aftermarket one? it probably be money better spent on other mods or beer
back in my ricer days i put a thicker ally radiator in my skyline as i was having dramas keeping it cool, ended up being a huge hassle trying to fit fans and shrouds on it and really didn't make a huge difference.

[Danny_01]

i called up another mechanic and got quoted $600 for the exact same radiator that toyota was going to fit, needless to say toyota wont be getting my business this time.

[pisso01]

I got a genuine radiator from a radiator bloke for about $350 and installed it myself. Looked at aftermarket options but it was all too expensive and was going to take too long and like fractured said I never had over heating problems so no need.

Cheers,

Chris.

[jakelux]

I put a Koyo in mine.. think it was around $300

[FASTRR]

Where abouts did you get the koyo jakelux?

[PRS]

Read the post I made about radiators in another thread. I own a radiator shop that has been in my family for over 50 years, I've worked there for 18 so I know a little about radiators and cooling.

viewtopic.php?f=81&t=22403

I can supply you either a Denso or Koyo for under $300. I would go the Denso.

Ben

[Danny_01]

thanks for that Ben! i really wish i had found your post earlier, i definitely would have hit you up with that offer. my car is already at the mechanics getting a new denso radiator fitted. do you think that $600 fitted is a good price? it includes all labour as well as genuine toyota coolant.

Cheers

[PRS]

thanks for that Ben! i really wish i had found your post earlier, i definitely would have hit you up with that offer. my car is already at the mechanics getting a new denso radiator fitted. do you think that $600 fitted is a good price? it includes all labour as well as genuine toyota coolant.

Cheers

Danny. That's sounds spot on. The most important aspect of the job is to make sure the cooling system is reverse flushed before any new coolant is added. Our rule is, if you would drink the water left in the block then it's OK to add new coolant.

[Skrewdriver]

Try Sydney Radiator Warehouse, I picked up heavy duty radiator for my AU Falcon from there for $230, everyone else up here in Newcastle wanted $500 or more

[TRDLuxxy]

PRS, I am considering swapping out my OEM for a thicker and all alloy radiator with the fill neck on the top, plan on switching to evans waterless so no need for an overflow reservoir. My spot lights are causing high water temps usually averaging 95-104 degrees @ 100km/h, have also considered fitting silicone air ducts to increase the airflow.

Heard all alloy tanks are prone to cracking on 4wd's due to the vibration, is this true? and roughly what would be the damage for a custom made one? No need for transmission cooler as I run a remote secondary anyway that has a thermostat connected to the fan.




What is your opinion on radiators/intercoolers fitted up against each other with a foam seal? Had mixed opinions...

[PRS]

PRS, I am considering swapping out my OEM for a thicker and all alloy radiator with the fill neck on the top, plan on switching to evans waterless so no need for an overflow reservoir. My spot lights are causing high water temps usually averaging 95-104 degrees @ 100km/h, have also considered fitting silicone air ducts to increase the airflow.

Have you removed your spotlights and seen a significant reduction in watertemps?
Is the problem worse climbing a hill at speed?
Have you had a tank off clean out done on your original radiator?

Bear inmind that if it is your airflow that is restricted, putting a thicker radiator in will worsen the problem. The already struggling air now has an even thicker restriction to pass through.

Heard all alloy tanks are prone to cracking on 4wd's due to the vibration, is this true? and roughly what would be the damage for a custom made one? No need for transmission cooler as I run a remote secondary anyway that has a thermostat connected to the fan.

The problem with alloy tank radiators is that they don't allow for expansion and contraction of the core. the manufacturer welds a mounting plate to the top and bottom tank along the side of the radiator (this is called the side band), essentially locking the tanks at a set distance from each other. Now the core and tubes need to expand and contract with thermal load. if the tanks can move apart but the core wants to......... Snap, Crackle, Pop. Hello leak.
Take a look at a Koyo I just pulled from the shelf.

1. The side band (although plastic) has a rubber between it and the tank. Allowing the tanks to move apart from each other with heat load.


2. You can see a cut through the side channel on the core allowing for even more expansion and contraction.
There is now way these elements can be designed into a complete alloy radiator.


Complete alloy radiators look nice, but they cannot sustain anywhere near the thermal cycles that an OE proven product can. I would personally never put one in a car that see regular driving.

What is your opinion on radiators/intercoolers fitted up against each other with a foam seal? Had mixed opinions...

Provided the cooling system is up to scratch, I've seen no problems associated with foam sealing the coolers.
Take a look at the 100 series Landcruiser, Toyota foam seal the air condenser to the radiator core to allow for maximum efficiency from the viscous fan pulling air through the condenser.
Give me a few answers to the questions I asked, then I can give you some more guidance.

[TRDLuxxy]

Yes a major drop in temps, hottest it got after removing the spot lights was 91 @ full throttle up an incline. Any load and incline saw the temps rise significantly with the spot lights on. My utes only done 25,000km since buying it new in 2012..

[Danny_01]

what are you using to monitor your temps if you dont mind me asking?

Cheers

[TRDLuxxy]

what are you using to monitor your temps if you dont mind me asking?

Cheers

Scan gauge 2

[PRS]

Yes a major drop in temps, hottest it got after removing the spot lights was 91 @ full throttle up an incline. Any load and incline saw the temps rise significantly with the spot lights on. My utes only done 25,000km since buying it new in 2012..

It definatly sounds like air flow issue. It doesn't matter how big or efficient your rad is. If it can't get air flow I simply cannot cool. I would look at doing what ever is needed to get more inflow of air at high speed, wether it's ducts, open the bullbar up or ..............loosing the spotties
A fan upgrade won't help your problem. The best fan you can put on any 4wd is the clutch fan the manufacturer fitted in the factory.
There is a reason why all cars on the road run thermofans, except 4wds. A thermofan cannot move the volume of air as an engine driven fan. The highest demand is put on your fan when the engine is making lots of heat from being worked and there is minimal speed, ie low range wheeling. A thermofan no matter how big or expensive won't cope.
In a time when every manufacturer is chasing minimal emissions, a engine driven fan is a power robbing, fuel sucking beast.
But amidst the chase for minimum emissions no company has built a 4wd with a thermofan.

[TRDLuxxy]

Ok no worries, I'll do some ducting first and see how that goes.

Much appreciated!