rosco01 wrote:Thanks again Steve,
picked up the associated needs today and will commence to tackle the project tomorrow....
Just one question - there'll be more, I'm sure....
How do we remove the plastic covers over the door entries - scuff plates - I think they are called.... mine seem to be pushed down and clipped on - but I've broken things like this simply by prying them up before......
rosco01 wrote:I intend to run spliced leads from the "b" pillar and back along the driver's side, across the back and into the tailgate through the existing conduit used for the tail-gate brake lamp.......
When you fitted your solenoid units - did you try to fit them to the existing support panels within the tail-gate or fit additional brackets to something else in there?
rosco01 wrote:If I'm not wrong - you appear to have fitted the solenoids to the inner tailgate sheet (two black screw heads visible) and made adaptor brackets fitted to the support panels to hold the window lock slide bearings onto...... I think this is what may be shown in your pic..... one side done - the other yet to be fitted.....?
rosco01 wrote:I am also about to wire up the waeco power pack for our fridge - I believe I should fit a Redarc isolation switch for this.... when I eventually fit an auxiliary battery for "add ons"...... UHF, caravan and fridge... I believe it better to run these direct from a fused panel from an auxiliary battery ..... it will leave the main batt for engine and vehicle systems only......
rosco01 wrote:My apologies for being a nuisance in this.... it will be the first project I have attempted on our little truck..... not frightened to have a go - it's just that this is a new truck..... old Holdens and just about anything else, I'm usually the first to invent some modification...... but this is new ground to me...... don't know much about modern circuits and how they may affect other systems......
rosco01 wrote:Finally Steve,
we're back from a trip away... and I've managed to break into the loom - I'm looking for the leads which run to the central locking on the passenger side within the loom - I can find the blue lead and also a green and yellow one.....
McSumWay wrote:You can also connect at the fuse box under the steering wheel.
There are two large black loom plugs - on the left plug the blue and the blue/yellow wire (which are side by side in the centre of the plug) are the central locking wires.
You will need to get the polarity right or the lock button will unlock whatever you are activating and vice versa.
rosco01 wrote:I ran out of time before getting away and didn't have the project finished - it's all there - but not electrically connected - that's where I'm up to....
I also included some "detents" in order that the bolts didn't freely move out or in when not under power.....
I did this for the time being by simply fitting a cable clamp - and using the rounded bolt as a lug - I drilled two stainless self tappers into the mount plate and these hold this cable clamp in position - both in the locked and unlocked ends of the motor stroke.....
rosco01 wrote:I'll post up more tonight - it took me ages to get the wiring through the existing conduit from the rear brake lamp and up into the cabin ( where the existing rubber grommet comes through from midway under the cabin) I've managed to keep it all sacri-sanct and should go undetected......
I have also fitted a small power diode at the supply end so that cabin security can not be by-passed simply by connecting power to the tail-gate operating lead.....
frats,
Rosco
leichlux wrote:oh and FYI - it took the locksmith 5 seconds per lock to unlock the hard cover using what looked like a needle and a small blade. he said "you know not to keep anything valuable in here right?".... I said "I DO NOW!"
MauricioMontenegro wrote:Rosco:
Please could you put pictures from where you take the cable to activate the solenoids?
Great Job!!
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