superclarkey wrote:I have squashed the rear down a few times with the forklift and observed inner-spring slippage so fairly confident it is sitting at the hight it should be sitting at. Only way for it to settle any further would to be get the springs to go beyond their elastic limit and get plastic deformation to cause permanently deformed springs lol... can't see what else there is to give. (OME springs have plastic spacers between the leafs, these have been lubricated).
I was looking at the driveline angles today and I was a little concerned, I did a quick drawing to better see where I'm at. This is at full droop hanging on a ramp though, so some pinion angle change will happen however I can't see it being more than a few degrees tops.
The far left is the diff, the far right is the gearbox..
Angle coming out of the gearbox is 4° to the first working shaft, but bear in mind that the gearbox isn't level with the ground so I've just used it as a starting point so the diff isn't normally pointing at the ground, so ignore that, its just the relationships I'm interested about.
I was shocked to see a 4degree angle out of the back of the gearbox tbh, but nothing with Hilux is shocking me anymore tbh.. lol
In short, the rear diff needs to be rotated upwards (nose of diff up from the ground) 10° to match the first working shaft (Fixed).
I thought dropping the centre would help, but any spacers would make this terrible as its already at 4° which is a bit shocking.
Can you even get 10° wedges for these axles and is that going to work with the shocks...
How do people not notice the vibrations when lifting their trucks haha..
What do people do to solve this? (This is my first 4x4 truck and I'm learning that most people just shrug their shoulders and be like, whatever)
(EDIT: Please note this was just a quick measurement, I'm going to do more pinion angle measurements at different angles once I have time, for now this is just a quick static view on how it sits.. fully understand it needs to be at ride height and not fully dropped on a ramp).
superclarkey wrote:Good to know! I used Loctite 8023 which is very expensive but its marine grade so for our salted roads in the UK would work good. (Also has high washout resistance).
superclarkey wrote:Haha, I don't know if to take that as a compliment or a dig lol.
I see the inserts as a disposable item that will be replaced when they wear out or start to look like they need replacing. Regular maintenance will be key I'm sure
As my hilux came with ever painted weld on the chassis cracked and already rusting.. my leaf springs are the least of my worries from corrosion. I feel the leaf springs will outlast the chassis at this point haha.
superclarkey wrote:Haha, I don't know if to take that as a compliment or a dig lol.
I see the inserts as a disposable item that will be replaced when they wear out or start to look like they need replacing. Regular maintenance will be key I'm sure
As my hilux came with ever painted weld on the chassis cracked and already rusting.. my leaf springs are the least of my worries from corrosion. I feel the leaf springs will outlast the chassis at this point haha.
superclarkey wrote:.. fully understand it needs to be at ride height and not fully dropped on a ramp).
Chopps wrote:superclarkey wrote:.. fully understand it needs to be at ride height and not fully dropped on a ramp).
Answered the issue there. Unless the hilux is jumping it never gets full droop. One wheel should always be on the ground
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