Cobba7490 wrote:The rust looks bad, but without a clean you won't know how bad. With the service history, was it worked on by the companys mechanics or by Toyota/third party workshop? If it is by Toyota/third party workshop i would trust that a bit more than in house mechanics (had a mate get stung like that).
If your mate gives it a thumbs up with his mechanical background then it should be good. (How much do you trust his experience/opinion? (Not having a stab, just another variable)
I subscribe to the theory that body damage is the lesser of two evils compared to mechanical (engine, gearbox/transmission/ transfer case). If you have a bit of motivation alot of body repairs can be done yourself, whereas, some mechanical issues will require a professional.
Up to you, I've heard some bad stories about ex-fleet vehicles (mainly ex-mine vehicles) but i think there was a build thread on here of a bloke getting a really good deal and built it into a good rig.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
Cobba
HK1837 wrote:Are you looking for auto or manual? Does it have to be diesel?
monezdahman wrote:Cobba7490 wrote:The rust looks bad, but without a clean you won't know how bad. With the service history, was it worked on by the companys mechanics or by Toyota/third party workshop? If it is by Toyota/third party workshop i would trust that a bit more than in house mechanics (had a mate get stung like that).
If your mate gives it a thumbs up with his mechanical background then it should be good. (How much do you trust his experience/opinion? (Not having a stab, just another variable)
I subscribe to the theory that body damage is the lesser of two evils compared to mechanical (engine, gearbox/transmission/ transfer case). If you have a bit of motivation alot of body repairs can be done yourself, whereas, some mechanical issues will require a professional.
Up to you, I've heard some bad stories about ex-fleet vehicles (mainly ex-mine vehicles) but i think there was a build thread on here of a bloke getting a really good deal and built it into a good rig.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
Cobba
Thanks mate.
Its been serviced by their fleet mechanics, they are a fair sized truck/ute hire company.
My mates been a mechanic for about 40 years, so I do trust his opinion, that being said he only have a quick look and drove it around for a few minutes. More concerned that its been thrashed while on site. I would pay for a proper inspection prior to purchasing if i go a head with it.
Any idea how much it would cost for to get the under body cleaned up professionally?
I have just found a 2013 SR dual cab, 115,000km, no rust, toyota service history, body and interior and in good condition for $24.5k...may be the better option if i can get it within my budget.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/i6gbnb3224x6 ... jsaOa?dl=0
Cobba7490 wrote:monezdahman wrote:Cobba7490 wrote:The rust looks bad, but without a clean you won't know how bad. With the service history, was it worked on by the companys mechanics or by Toyota/third party workshop? If it is by Toyota/third party workshop i would trust that a bit more than in house mechanics (had a mate get stung like that).
If your mate gives it a thumbs up with his mechanical background then it should be good. (How much do you trust his experience/opinion? (Not having a stab, just another variable)
I subscribe to the theory that body damage is the lesser of two evils compared to mechanical (engine, gearbox/transmission/ transfer case). If you have a bit of motivation alot of body repairs can be done yourself, whereas, some mechanical issues will require a professional.
Up to you, I've heard some bad stories about ex-fleet vehicles (mainly ex-mine vehicles) but i think there was a build thread on here of a bloke getting a really good deal and built it into a good rig.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
Cobba
Thanks mate.
Its been serviced by their fleet mechanics, they are a fair sized truck/ute hire company.
My mates been a mechanic for about 40 years, so I do trust his opinion, that being said he only have a quick look and drove it around for a few minutes. More concerned that its been thrashed while on site. I would pay for a proper inspection prior to purchasing if i go a head with it.
Any idea how much it would cost for to get the under body cleaned up professionally?
I have just found a 2013 SR dual cab, 115,000km, no rust, toyota service history, body and interior and in good condition for $24.5k...may be the better option if i can get it within my budget.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/i6gbnb3224x6 ... jsaOa?dl=0
I don't know how much to get it cleaned professionally. So, can't help ya there, mate.
That 2013 rig looks good. Body and tray look straight and damage free. And lower kilometers than the 2014.
Is it possible for you to get your mate (or a third party mechanic) to do a bit more of an indepth inspection on both vehicles so that you can compare them? The 2014 might work out better for your situation/budget? Even if you have to put in the work yourself and get your hands dirty to clean it up. I notices that alot of surface rust was on the exhaust, is this really an issue? More than likely you are gonna have a new exhaust system high up on your list of mods...?
Just my two bobs worth.
HK1837 wrote:I’d try and stretch your budget if at all possible and make an offer on something with lower kM in better condition. In the end you may be better off financially spending a bit more up front. Just a few examples although the first one is a bit rough. Just check service history and run the VIN past Toyota for any issues they’ve had. The higher priced ones at dealers do include stamp duty too. But if your budget is fixed then I guess you have to find the best you can.
https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/detail ... D-17513077
https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/detail ... D-17384052
https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/detail ... AD-6215866
HK1837 wrote:Personally I wouldn’t buy a 2nd hand common rail, to me it is buying someone else’s problem. For low to mid 20’s I’d be buying a 2012 V6 auto with under 80,000km on it with good service history, preferably without a tow bar on it. It will give you far less grief than a diesel.
Have a look on red book for what is standard and what option packs there were in that timeframe. These were VSC and safety packs but at some stage it all became standard.
If you are buying a diesel manual don’t discount a 2011 SR5 dual cab with low km for the right price either, these have 17” wheels thus have bigger brakes plus they have VSC on them. Mechanically they are pretty much the same as 2012-15, it is the auto D4D that still have the awful 4spd up until about 2013. There were also some 2011 SR fitted with wide wheel packs too, they have the SR5 flares and tub plus VSC and possibly full airbags as well.
HK1837 wrote:Personally I wouldn’t buy a 2nd hand common rail, to me it is buying someone else’s problem. For low to mid 20’s I’d be buying a 2012 V6 auto with under 80,000km on it with good service history, preferably without a tow bar on it. It will give you far less grief than a diesel.
Have a look on red book for what is standard and what option packs there were in that timeframe. These were VSC and safety packs but at some stage it all became standard.
If you are buying a diesel manual don’t discount a 2011 SR5 dual cab with low km for the right price either, these have 17” wheels thus have bigger brakes plus they have VSC on them. Mechanically they are pretty much the same as 2012-15, it is the auto D4D that still have the awful 4spd up until about 2013. There were also some 2011 SR fitted with wide wheel packs too, they have the SR5 flares and tub plus VSC and possibly full airbags as well.
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