Yeah not doing that again huge waste of money I bought a new Triton and besides a tray and roo bar it's staying stock. Got the hilux back in the shed cracked the out put off the pump and cranked it over. Nothing coming out so the fuel pump is f$@#&% again, most likely a broken input shaft. Talked to Bailey's and they recon you can knock off a circling from the pump drive gear when installing them which will cause the shaft to snap. Supposedly they fail straight away though. Wont know till i pull it back out and i have a serious lack of motivation so it may be a few weeks
Cheers Gipsy although I'm sure somebody will challenge that even Einstein wasn't certain of his theories. My 2013 auto D4D DC SR5, prefilter, 3" exhaust and Chip with egt probe, stock SR5 rims with Toyo Open Country AT2 265/65R/17's
The engine I bought reconed off a local guy. Buyers remorse something shocking now. He won't even answer his phone anymore. I've sent the fuel pump back to the supplier so they can test it and hopefully give me a reason why it failed. There technically said he has had a similar issue in the past and it was due to a circlip popping off one of the pump drive gears, but he said in his case the car ran for only a few minutes before the pump failed. I made it nearly 1000km. The hilux is now back in the shed in pieces waiting to hear back from them. I really don't want to pull the whole front end of the engine apart to inspect the pump gears but I may have to. It's a pity cos I spent ages and tons on cash setting this car up for camping and now even if I get it fixed I'm never going to trust it not to crap out on me. So now I've got to decide if I fix it and sell it, part it out and sell it stockish or keep it and hope it doesn't die again. Anyone now of any easy engine swaps to something more reliable?
Heard back from the pump supplier apparently occasionally when installing them you can dislodge a c clip on one of the idler gears between the crank and the pump pulley.which causes them to run a fraction out of true and snap the pump shaft. So I shelled out more hard earned and bought another bloody pump just waiting for a free weekend to pull the inner timing cover off and check all my tolerances and put it back together. The new Triton has been trouble free though
Well I finally got around to looking at the lemon taking up a lot of my shed space, had a mechanic mate come and help on this one as it's a bit outside my expertise. ended up having to pull the radiator and ac condensor to get the balancer bolt off as the little rattle gun didnt have enough balls. Ended up getting the inner timing cover off though and I think I found my issue, the idler gear back cog has run out of line with the front 2(stupid 3 piece spring loaded gear) which looks like it's causes it to run out of true and damaged the mating surfaces. Not sure what caused this to happen anyone have any ideas? Anyway ordering a new idler gear assembly and will reinstall it all next week. Also none of the inner timing marks lined up when I disassembled, the crank, pump and cam all lined up when I pulled the belt off so I just disassembled and put the gears back in so it all lined up. I'll check it all again once it's back together
What exactly did the reco consist of, what did he say he did to the old engine, what did the engine do that required a repair?
Reco is a term used very loosely, i think invented by the wreckers to replace patch up, or one engine built up of second hand parts of several with the use of minimal new parts.
Your on the money Marty talked to a diesel pump tech this morning who has seen this exact problem a few times on reco motors, apparently when you put the timing gears together you need to do it with the pump bolted in as the bearing on the pump pulley acts as the second locator for the timing case and holds the pump pulley in the correct location. So I'd say the bloke that did mine slapped it all together then put the pump in and it's taken 10k kms to get a bit of wear on the idler pulley which has put pressure on the pump drive gear and causes the pump shaft to snap. Just getting prices on a new idler gear assembly atm then I'll put it all back in properly and should fix the issue
Bloody hell, so many little traps to fall into, wonder if this is mentioned in the haynes manual. Did he say anything about the ballance shaft marks being out?
Nope the pulley gear marks being out is normal, you'd have to be really lucky or pull the cam and turn it over a heap to get them all to line up, just make sure cam and crank are at top dead then pull all of them off and put them back on in the right spot, just make sure you lock the idler gear with a bolt first so it doesn't unwind.
Its hard to tell from the pics, what is driving the small gear behind the idler your having trouble with, and is it a balance shaft, and what is the small gear on the lower right of the pic sort of behind the pump drive gear?
I would have thought there would be a fairly important procedure to get the balance shafts in the correct spot.
Everything has timing marks on them including the oil pump and balance shafts so as long as you get all the marks to line back up its good. That small gear is a balance shaft it's drivin from the pump gear, they both have marks that need to line up, they're all numbered so it's not to bad
It's a mostly stubborn hate thing now, on the plus side learnt a lot more about engines and timing and cars in general since fixing everything on the lemon.
Thought I chuck up a quick update, the hilux is all back together and running, made a trip into town and back without incident so hopefully it's now sorted.
Cheers to you fracturedranga, great to hear you hung in there and hopefully you have resolved the issues confronting you. Hopefully all will continue to go well and your faith in the Yoda will be restored and prevail.
Cheers Gipsy although I'm sure somebody will challenge that even Einstein wasn't certain of his theories. My 2013 auto D4D DC SR5, prefilter, 3" exhaust and Chip with egt probe, stock SR5 rims with Toyo Open Country AT2 265/65R/17's