NewHilux.net

Not good, non auto silicone. Definitely check your MAF sensor hot wires.
I see this all the time. The fitting of some snorkels is pretty disgusting, actually. Bad quality workmanship.
Sikaflex 227 or something like that, should be used in these areas.
The Roo.

Mmm i better do this ey.

Yep still haven't checked mine I wounder if the duct tape is still there.

2468bidw wrote:I found an eBay seller in Sydney - don't anyone contact him about the genuine replacement cost!! I'll be emailing the workshop who did the install there & propose a couple of options. That Toyota don't have this as separate parts is bizarre.

Regarding the superglue, the superglue that the apprentice with the nail polish picked up for me says it goes soft at 80 degrees C. Does the silica or baking soda fix that?

I want an apprentice now.
I saw some cheap airboxes around $200 up for sale a few years ago. I presumed they were Chinese knock offs so for the sake of a small rubber valve I thought it wasnt worth it.
The highest I've seen my air intake was in the high 40's so reckon as long as you use the super glue externally (to avoid interfering with the sensor) where the valve attaches to the box it should be fine. I'm not sure if any polymer improves heat resistance - certainly wouldnt think silca sand or Sodium bicarb would but who knows...
This is the stuff here: http://www.rapidfixaustralia.com.au/ handy to keep in your kit
I've also used this stuff: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Q-Bond-SMALL-Plastic-Repair-KIT-QBOND-Bonding-Glue-/120744032768?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1ce7ba00 works really well with various plastics
As the Roo says use sikaflex or other sensor safe RTV such as permatex or loctite brands for any internal sealing.
Let us know how you go

cuzo4x4 wrote:Yep still haven't checked mine I wounder if the duct tape is still there.

Duct tape never fails, of course it'd be!

Guys, thanks for the tips & experience. Guess I hijacked your thread jaybags but i hope it is broadly relevant to your original question. Ok, a bit of an update, I got some CRC cleaner for the air sensor. When I pulled the sensor off I noticed straight away that the resin on the end of the 'obvious' wire was coated in black dust (assuming it came from further down the inlet) but happy that it wasn't clearly road dust like in one of the examples in the "how to" thread on cleaning the air sensor. Sprayed it out a couple of times.

Had a closer look at the gland valve & had a bit of a poke around with a screwdriver..... Never believe it but I was able to clean out the crap sealant the snorkel installers used!!



Managed to clean it pretty thoroughly & heat up the gland with boiling water & hold it with a bulldog clip to try to get rid of the muntered lip thanks to the installers.



Got some of that sensor friendly Permatex RTV gasket sealant. Sealed the valve housing directly to the base of the airbox.



Leave it like that till tomorrow so it can cure & refit before work. I'll get my reader out & also see how the fuel consumption goes. All going well I hope to have salvaged my airbox & might not have to engage with the workshop responsible.... Or at least be able to put a different tone on it.

Interesting.
My valve was deformed too but no one had installed a snorkel until I fitted one.
Wen I removed the airbox I noticed the valve was jammed open with leaf debris and wouldnt seal closed again.
I closed the gap up with rtv, let it cure then slit it down the middle with a sharp blade.


Seals like it should now.
Good work cleaning yours up

x2, looks like you just saved yourself quite a bit of money

DeadlyBeast wrote:Interesting.
My valve was deformed too but no one had installed a snorkel until I fitted one.
Wen I removed the airbox I noticed the valve was jammed open with leaf debris and wouldnt seal closed again.
I closed the gap up with rtv, let it cure then slit it down the middle with a sharp blade.


Seals like it should now.
Good work cleaning yours up

It's a girl?
The Roo.

G'day guys,

After a few days driving after the repair on the airbox and cleaning the airflow sensor I've won back 1L/100km. I started the week on 11.1-11.2L/100km and now I'm on 10-10.2L/100km. So thats half a litre from closing the hole off completely and another from getting the valve back in working order. This reinforces to me the points that guys have raised here and in other threads that if you stuff with pressures and airflow in the airbox, and by design this includes the airflow sensor, it messes with the engine management system.

I'm pretty happy with that. My arse dyno also says it goes better from a stop too. I'm not a fanatic about fuel consumption specifically but given my engine is stock it seems to be a good indicator of how it's performing. My takeaway is don't mess with the airbox! If I was in to deep fording and needed absolute surety about watertightness or running extra engine management boxes then maybe I'd think again.

Cheers lads, John

Hey all, I'm looking at getting a snorkel and found one on ebay. Just wondering if anyone can tell me if it's any good. Thanks in advance.

Captin

http://m.ebay.com/itm/141460552583?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE

Looks alright mate, says UV stabilised which is what you want and just check that it seals up well. Otherwise it looks almost identical to my ironman snorkel.

Cheers

Ultra

Thanks ultraluxe