Here are a few images of a tub swap
First undo wire harness connections, and remove tail lights if you plan to reuse
Undo the left wheel arch splash guard from the front to over half way back. It is possible to get to the fuel filler clips and tub bolt with out removing but is much easier if totally removed.
![Image](https://imghostr.net/images/2018/06/25/3605b4cbdf8557b8e279ce9e1d79fd4a.jpg)
![Image](https://imghostr.net/images/2018/06/25/90c447675ead7e54c62acc9d3435bd5a.jpg)
Pop out the cable release being careful not to destroy the black retainer that is inserted in the fuel filler pocket - the white cable housing will untwist from the retainer anticlockwise
New retainers are only about $7 or so if broken
![Image](https://imghostr.net/images/2018/06/25/743003ca3c67a973475506ebb80c3818.jpg)
There are a couple of cable holders - keep track of where they are like this one on the fill breather tube
![Image](https://imghostr.net/images/2018/06/25/30c3b228df5c41e38f574b7a883d3da0.jpg)
![Image](https://imghostr.net/images/2018/06/25/216fefb0eb41539fc496ade7605fedb8.jpg)
This front left bolt is the most difficult due to the angle and the bracket in the way. The bracket can be undone and moved back to make it easier. A bit of heat will help removing - these have loctite on them
17mm bolt heads from memory - it takes some time to come out feeling like its rust seized but it will get easier
The drivers side is more straight forward
![Image](https://imghostr.net/images/2018/06/25/ce49e97283ed916f3fc7e4f7528d4eae.jpg)
Squirt a little soapy water or WD40 around the filler neck rubber. Remove filler cap and plug off the neck.
Slowly raise the tub - it needs to go up about a metre to clear the wheel
There will be some initial resistance from the filler neck - keep some WD40 on hand
![Image](https://imghostr.net/images/2018/06/25/281fc9026ee232594380c0c8c4b66d66.jpg)
Clean out you tank breather while its accessible - extending to a higher point may be worth while too
![Image](https://imghostr.net/images/2018/06/25/7f93afb8db6aca0e86342e695cbd3726.jpg)
![Image](https://imghostr.net/images/2018/06/25/d6fc51031e1b401ed75e46620df426bf.jpg)
![Image](https://imghostr.net/images/2018/06/25/6eefd110806ad931237c7edd28af97ce.jpg)
Having the luxury of time to raptor coat the tub before installing made spray access to the wheel arches and front the the tub easy
Make sure everything is ready for the new tub to go on - keep the wire harness off the chassis, filler neck lubed and cable release in place
Place some padding between cab and tub
If you have some help, get someone at the filler neck to guide it down and over.
![Image](https://imghostr.net/images/2018/06/25/3114a8e6e7b9423d8bba44d1ecd2571a.jpg)
![Image](https://imghostr.net/images/2018/06/25/d3d96df032cf1ddfd9cc87e98e5b78bb.jpg)
![Image](https://imghostr.net/images/2018/06/25/22bc4c01355f0638a200cbb7bd7c1c18.jpg)
![Image](https://imghostr.net/images/2018/06/25/30c5c143f215f5a05b62d6a03378a9a8.jpg)
![Image](https://imghostr.net/images/2018/06/25/f9e0876aad88563d7186d57570cc5c52.jpg)
![Image](https://imghostr.net/images/2018/06/25/43d27c6f707915eca5dd624a2c517099.jpg)
The front and rear tub bolts are torqued to 105nm
The middle with the rubber bush only 20nm. There is a 5 ir 6mm thick square of rubber that sits between the chassis and the tub - this stuck to the tub in my case - make sure to transplant these with the new tub unless the new tub has them stuck underneath it
Insert cable release and clip in harness connections to lights - voila