martynvella wrote:Pretty sure they were interchangable. The diametric pitch of the teeth remained the same and the shaft was positioned slightly different to compensate for the drive diameter change.
Only way to be sure what yours was standard with would be to come up with the denso number of a genuine starter and do a parts break down from that, but you can bet the toyota part has superseded to the latter one.
I have personally never seen any damage done by the pinion and never needed to fit a new one, only changed the the clutch assembly and took care that the same pinion went back with the same drive end bracket.
Not overly familiar with engine types but assuming yours is a diesel fitted with the 0.7 kw denso reduction starter?
Interested to find out how your research goes.
Sorry, I do recall a badly damaged pinion but that was caused by the owner using the wrong key and it stuck in the crank position whilst being driven, wasnt only the drive gear that was damaged.
martynvella wrote:Unfortunatly it is very hard to tell the difference between a cheap nasty one and a reasonable quality one from the outside. Even when I was selling new after market ones I would bed in the new contacts just to save any possibility of issues in the near future.
Another unfortunate thing about the 0.7 kw units is that the brush holder and comm isnt just under a cover on the end, so cant just pop it off and check that all the welds are good and springs are correctly positioned.
Another thing i found twice with chinese units was a 24 volt field coil fitted to a 12 volt starter, both units were owner purchased off the net and worked but very sluggish and only started by sheer luck after 2 or 3 glows.
Only way you can tell is to dismantle the unit and look at how the coils themselves are configured, otherwise look identical.
martynvella wrote:If you have your old one in bits look at the coils, if all 4 are in series then it is a 24v case, if it has 2 coils in series connected in parallel with the other 2 in series then it is a 12 volt case.
Rob_Wood wrote:martynvella wrote:If you have your old one in bits look at the coils, if all 4 are in series then it is a 24v case, if it has 2 coils in series connected in parallel with the other 2 in series then it is a 12 volt case.
Good tip, I will check the old one in a while and if I can get it apart without it looking like it's been apart I'll check the new one when it arrives as well.
Quick question ... If the new one is configured for 24V (thinking about winding wire sizes), is there any issues with re-configuring it for 12V?
martynvella wrote:Rob_Wood wrote:Nah you wont be able to, they wound with flat bar not wire and are all spot welded and rubber dipped, even if you were totally anal about doing it i doubt there be enough room to run cables heavy enough in there. The pole shoes are rivited in now not screwed so not so easy to get apart.
Depending on the brand you get it may even have perminant magnets and not wound fields, if thats the case just holding them wrong in a vice will destroy them, but it makes them cheap to make.
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