Dreaded Sludge GGN25R 1GRFE

Turbo, Manifolds, Exhaust, Intercooler, Internals etc

Dreaded Sludge GGN25R 1GRFE

Postby Mylifeaftercovid on Sun, 20 Dec 2020 7:00 +0000

Hey Guys,

I’ve searched and have failed to find out if anyone has removed the oil pan on a 2005 GGN25R 1GRFE with the motor in the car?

I have oil pressure issues and have now realised that my motor is sludged up. I need to check and most probably clean the pickup. (Rebuild/Replace is probably required)
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Re: Dreaded Sludge GGN25R 1GRFE

Postby gen7xtracab on Sun, 20 Dec 2020 9:44 +0000

Somebody not doing regular oil changes...?

2WD versions can be done. Difficult though.
You may need to lift the engine a little.

Once you get the lower oil pan removed, there will be bolts retaining the upper oil pan (aluminum) aside from all of the external bolts. Through the inspection holes of the transmission (between trans and block), there are also two 10 mm bolts which need to be removed as well.
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Re: Dreaded Sludge GGN25R 1GRFE

Postby Mylifeaftercovid on Mon, 21 Dec 2020 4:31 +0000

I’ve had it for a short time, say less than 20000ks and was changing the oil with full synthetic 5w-30 at 10000 intervals. Can’t be sure about the previous owners servicing habits.

Time to start pulling it down today as it seems like the safest option. I don’t want to risk spinning a bearing etc etc.

Thanks
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Re: Dreaded Sludge GGN25R 1GRFE

Postby Philos on Mon, 21 Dec 2020 5:21 +0000

Personally if this was mine I’d buy speak to someone at Anglomoil in Brisbane and see if they’d recommend running an engine cleaner fluid through it before I started trying to remove the pan. They make exceptionally good quality oils and the tech dept has vast knowledge in all things oils.

If the engine is sludged up to this degree (to partially block the intake strainer) the rest of the engine will most likely be caked as well. Running a cleaner product through it will clean the entire engine.

I think 10,000 kms is too long between changes especially if the engine has a lot of carbon built up internally. I’d change the oil when it starts to get dark no matter what the kms are.
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Re: Dreaded Sludge GGN25R 1GRFE

Postby Mylifeaftercovid on Tue, 22 Dec 2020 3:01 +0000

Once I realised it was too late the pickup was already choked. I’ve lived by 10000k servicing for my petrol cars and 5000k for my old Diesel Turbo with no issues until now.
(my oil was quite clear on the stick when the light first came on)
It’s as nasty as I have seen online inside! The crud is breaking up from the flush or the previous oil change.
The pickup is choked so I can’t flush it any further.
Two days in to pulling it down so far with plenty of challenges so far, now i’ve almost got the timing cover off, just need to pull the crank pulley etc.
The plan is to inspect the bottom end and repair/replace as required
Thanks for the advice
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Re: Dreaded Sludge GGN25R 1GRFE

Postby PCR 59 on Sun, 16 May 2021 7:45 +0000

Hi , just found this forum and this thread as I have just suffered a sludge failure of the oil pump I think. 1 GR FE
A couple of weeks ago I noticed a whirring noise that I put down to the alternator bearings as I had a couple of sluggish starting issues, forward to today and the oil light comes on ( 7000 k ) since last service, so stop and check the oil, getting a little bit low so top it up and the light goes out , all good for about 5 k and then the engine light comes on and a racket from the rockers , so I shut it off and left it till the morning.
Started it up and the oil pressure light stays on longer than usual but it went out, unfortunately the engine light stayed on,
No noise from the rockers but I now noticed that it is not the alternator but coming from the oil pump area .
Q , is my motor cactus or should I get it repaired.
Oil changes done at around 10,000k
Total 212,000 k on odo.
Thanks
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