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Bit the bullet and decided to install an EGT gauge with the sensor pre turbo.

Removal of manifold has progressed until its time to remove the manifold studs. The studs have a multi point star head which does not fit a 8mm socket correctly.

What tool do you use to remove these studs, access to the top ones may facilitate use of the double nut method to extract them. I struggle to see how this method would be viable for the bottom ones.

Appreciate if someone can assist.

I am concerned about the amount of oil that I have uncovered around the base of the turbo and the side of the block, intention is to remove the turbo and reseal all mating flanges. What is the degree of difficulty doing this?

You ned a E drive Torx socket.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/kincrome-10 ... t_p6110216

Oil is from engine breather most likely. Clean it up and fit a catch can to prevent anymore from getting in or it getting worse

Thanks for the assistance, yep Torx E10 socket gets the studs, they will be going back in with plenty of "Neverseize" just in case I am the bunny removing them next time.

Still think I will pull the turbo, I installed a Catch Can when I inherited the vehicle, I am dealing with an external oil leak.

Gravy72 wrote:Thanks for the assistance, yep Torx E10 socket gets the studs, they will be going back in with plenty of "Neverseize" just in case I am the bunny removing them next time.

Still think I will pull the turbo, I installed a Catch Can when I inherited the vehicle, I am dealing with an external oil leak.

Could just be a gasket on the oil feed/drain pipe, or worst case that pipe has a small fracture and needs replacing

CamboT Spot on with the diagnosis, oil feed drain is the culprit. Think its a result of the PO exhaust fitment not putting the bolt back in the turbo lower support bracket, therefore it was flexing. Will do a further inspection on the pipe to ensure it is not cracked.

Thanks

They are known for hairline fractures. Clean down and check the inside of the pipe where its soldered to the flanges.
Easy to just replace the bugger than muck about trying to weld up or whatever.

Afraid Toyota has reliability issues, the welds on the turbo oil drain pipe might as well not exist. No web fillet at the joins just a 0.2 mm sleeve joint. Something to be wary of if you remove your turbo or place extra stress in this area by fitting a larger exhaust as the lower supporting bracket for the turbo has the ability to flex and everything moves with the large temperature variations in his area.

Toyota has applied some thought in the design of the pipe, it has a crinkled section mid length to deal with the expansion and contraction that it is exposed to.

Simple task to rectify by silver soldering a 1mm web fillet around the pipe entries into the flanges, just ensure you support the flanges during this process as they could separate from the pipe.

Worst part of the process is re installing the bolts that secure the drain to the block, do not ask me how many hours it took me to fit those two bolts.