Intermittent loss of power 3.0 D4D Auto

[Just-my-lux]

Hi all,

I’ve had a good search but can’t find any threads that seem to relate to my issue - sorry if it was my search.

I recently bought a 2013 SR Dual Cab 3.0 D4D Auto with 130K km’s and full service history (bought from a telecoms contractor here in Adelaide, South Australia, I don’t think it had a particularly hard life and he said it had done a fair built of country miles but who knows)

I’ve done about 400km’s so far, all fine but today whilst going uphill I had a sudden loss of power, which subsequently happened another 4 or 5 times before I got home (mostly uphill...however it managed a 20% incline without loss of power and lost power on the flat another time so doesn’t seem to be a direct link)

It doesn’t cut out and only lasts for a few seconds but I’ve got my foot to the floor and it wont go above idle it feels, then kicks back in.

No warning lights flashing.

I was going to try and have a go at looking at the EGR over the weekend to see if there’s a big carbon build up, if so maybe get the inlet manifolds/EGR cleaned (manually is best I’ve read)

Hope that enough for some feedback and ideas? I’m not mechanical but willing to have a go if it’s childproof!

Thanks, having recently emigrated, I have no trusted contacts here to advise.

Cheers

[Just-my-lux]

Just to add, next service is due in 3K and I did have it idling for a couple of hours straight this week to dry out the seats following an upholstery clean.

[CamboT]

Try cleaning the MAF sensor first.

Cleaning the EGR and intake manifold out would be good to do anyway.
Look at a EGR delete module for it. This is what I fitted ( https://chiptuning.com.au/products-page ... ff-module/ )

Have you had the engine light come on? Would be worth getting any DTC's scanned.
Could possibly have a turbo stepper motor issue or the varible vanes in the turbo could be sticking as well.

[Just-my-lux]

Try cleaning the MAF sensor first.

Cleaning the EGR and intake manifold out would be good to do anyway.
Look at a EGR delete module for it. This is what I fitted ( <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="https://chiptuning.com.au/products-page/toyota-hilux-prado-plug-in-egr-off-module/">https://chiptuning.com.au/products-page ... ff-module/</a><!-- m --> )

Have you had the engine light come on? Would be worth getting any DTC's scanned.
Could possibly have a turbo stepper motor issue or the varible vanes in the turbo could be sticking as well.

Thanks,

I just took the MAF sensor off...the battery is also now stone dead.

This could be down to the auto electrician who fitted a Redarc Towpro elite V3, some aftermarket fog lights (connected to side light but switched seperately) and a reverse camera.

I’ll clean and replace the MAF sensor (which is dirty) - get the thing running again and give it a try.

No engine light came on but I’ll get it scanned once it’s running.

Cheers

[Just-my-lux]

Come to think of it, I could hear a relay ticking a bit the other evening when I didn’t have the stereo on - seemed to be at low speed when I accelerated (softly). I wonder if that would point towards the stepper motor? (It could be that I’d just never noticed it before)

[Gipsy]

Once you get the battery replaced/charged it may reset all the DTC codes but it's worth a scan. Best insurance you can get is a scanner, they're cheap and indispensable if you ever have problems. You can buy a simple OBD2 scanner for less than $20 and an app on your smartphone to check and monitor the codes.

[Just-my-lux]

Thanks, I’ll certainly give it a go.

[Just-my-lux]

I have an update.

The battery looked to be original so 7yrs old, as it happened Autobarn had a 30% off promotion today so managed to get a Century ultra high performance (N70ZZLX MF) for $200.

Started up no problem so I took it for a run. No power loss so hoping the MAF clean has done the trick.

I decided to fill up and spotted that the brake lights were stuck on (engine off/key out) - so in all likelihood that‘s the brake pedal switch that’ll need sorting.

One last thing....just before getting home, and although I didn’t get any loss of power, the engine light illuminated (it hadn’t before now).

I’m back home now so I’ve disconnected the new battery and will order an OBD2 scanner as suggested to see what I can find out (although the code will no doubt be wiped from today)

Hoping this thread will help someone when I finally get sorted

Thanks.

[Gipsy]

You said earlier you had a brake controller fitted? That taps into the brake switch so maybe there's a fault there. The engine light isn't related to the brake issues so you need a scanner, or someone you know with one.
Engine lights are related to repeat problems and the ECU keeps a log until the threshold is reached and the light is illuminated. Each time you start the engine it puts any fault into the log until a certain number is reached. The scanner also indicates past problems which are awaiting that threshold point. Unfortunately disconnected battery erases any pending codes.

[martynvella]

Tekonsha had a faulty batch of voyager brake controllers about 15 years ago, they had a grey lable and were replaced with the near identical unit with a purple lable which work well.
The fault was randomly turning on brake lights which caused cars to drop out of cruise and also flattened batteries.

[Gipsy]

auto electrician fitted a Redarc Towpro elite V3, hopefully not the same unit? Does sound similar though.

[DeadlyBeast]

Had a work prado of the same vintage with an intermittent faulty brake speed sensor.
Driving through water would trigger the code
The engine light would illuminate and soon go into limp mode due to loss of stabilty and traction control etc

Your loss of power reminds me of this limp mode except in my case it could only be cleared with techstream to regain power