What would you do????

[HiaceAdam]

Hey,

Just wondering if anyone has had a short to ground on the loom between the "driver, turbo motor" and the boost sensor/stepper motor? I'm thinking I'll cut the plug and make a new loom direct from one to the other.... Its either that section of loom or the one between the ecu and the turbo driver?

Cheers
Adam

[mitch_893]

From memory there is a post on here regarding this.
Check the loom where it runs around the front of the engine, down near the sump. Apparently rubs through on the left hand side (passenger side).

However I recently had a code show up which indicated a possible short to ground on that circuit, but all circuits tested ok, turned out to be the vanes on the turbo had locked up causing the stepper motor to overload.

[HiaceAdam]

From memory there is a post on here regarding this.
Check the loom where it runs around the front of the engine, down near the sump. Apparently rubs through on the left hand side (passenger side).

However I recently had a code show up which indicated a possible short to ground on that circuit, but all circuits tested ok, turned out to be the vanes on the turbo had locked up causing the stepper motor to overload.

Hey Mitch,

That's where my issues started, I got a P0046 for sticky vanes so I replaced the entire turbo and stepper with brand new genuine items. I did 200km and everything was mint! Then a code (P00AF) and limp mode... It was intermittent at first, then became constant. I figured out my turbo driver was toast and swapped for a known good unit but was still coding P00Af and P2588 ("B" Circuit low) I mucked around with plugs and wires and it became intermittent again so I'm left with either loom or ecu... I'm making a new loom as we speak from the turbo to the driver but may have to do the same to the ecu...

"buy a toyota they said... it's reliable they said..."

[mitch_893]

Ok I’d definitely inspect the loom at the front of the engine. Have you got access to the wiring diagram? Should be fairly simple to test the circuits for a short or an open circuit, from memory there’s not many wires running it.

[HiaceAdam]

To be fair my 1KD is actually in a Hiace... I know its a dirty word round these parts Haha
So my loom doesn't run the same way...But in saying that I have found a place where it does wear against the aux belt... well the idler to be exact. To get this part of loom out to repair is major hence why I figured id just make a new section... (for anyone that finds this, it's on a 08 Hiace 1KD)

There are 6 wires from boost sensor to the "driver, turbo motor"
There are 2 wires from the stepper motor that also go to the driver unit
Then there are 4 wires from the driver to the ecu

I have made some crude wiring diagrams with colours and pin outs if anyone wants them...
I'd be interested to know if they used the same loom on the lux...

[HiaceAdam]

Well it wasn't that section of loom.... ffs

I'm about to kill this 1KD with fire.....

[mitch_893]

If it’s still a current fault it’s actually a good thing. Intermittent faults are the worst.

You really need to test each circuit for a short/open.
There may only be one wire that you need to run to bypass a fault.
Or it may not even be a wiring fault. Maybe something not quite right about the stepper motor? Or the ecu, but I wouldn’t go replacing modules just yet.

[HiaceAdam]

Thanks for the reply Mitch, I appreciate the input as another set of eyes or brain always helps

I tested all wires for continuity and resistance (if that's how you do it?) everything tested fine as in continuity and no resistance.

I have two stepper motors one is brand new and I've tried swapping from one to the other with no luck...
I am worried that the known good turbo driver is now bad which makes me think maybe my ecu is stuffed and has a short somewhere killing the turbo driver...

I know in the old toyota ecu's the capacitors would leak on to the board and wreak them... might pop the cover off the ecu and have a look...

any other ideas? I'm all ears....

[mitch_893]

Ok so checking each wire end to end for resistance confirms you don’t have an open, but you need to also check for a short to ground and the unlikely case of a short to power.
Make sure your ground is good too.

[HiaceAdam]

I'm not 100% sure on how to test for short to ground

but from what I can see is there seems to be power from the ecu to the turbo driver but no power coming out of the turbo driver to run/adjust the stepper motor...

[mitch_893]

Same as testing a ground circuit, except you don’t want it to have continuity to ground. But you do need to be careful when it comes to testing wires going into modules, as there could be drivers and resistors internally that give you wrong readings. Which is why you really need to have access to the proper wiring diagram.

The turbo driver probably won’t output power if there is a fault with the signal coming in from the position sensor.

I’d probably suggest seeking assurance from an auto elec.

[HiaceAdam]

I just cant believe that something would fail after putting in a brand new turbo and stepper etc... especially after running 200km with no issue... its actually doing my head in! I wish there was something online to say "test this like that" etc to help me rule stuff out even being able to bench test the turbo driver and know what values I should see...

from what I've tested and can see there is 4 wires from the ecu to the driver and they all seem to be fine...(unless my ecu is toast) Usually if I have issues like this I find a plug or vac line I've left off haha

[HiaceAdam]

Well by plugging in a known good turbo driver, whatever my issue is it has killed that one too
does anyone know if there is a fuse anywhere on this circuit?

[HiaceAdam]

2008 1KD

I replaced the turbo for a P0046 code, after the replacement everything was fine for 300 or so km's.
Then a check light and limp mode with a P00AF code. I replaced the turbo driver with a known good one (friends vehicle)
Code and light were gone on start up and drove perfect for 20 odd km's till the check engine light and limp mode came back, cleared itself and came back a few times before being constant. I put the driver back into the friends vehicle and threw the P00AF code on start up, couldn't clear it and was constant (had to buy him a new driver at $650 nzd)

Is it possible my ecu is killing the turbo driver unit?
Do I run the risk of buying a new unit on my current ecu and killing it again?
Or do I buy a new ecu and new turbo driver?
Anyone heard of the ecu's turning to sh!t?

I've tested my loom and pretty much stripped it off the engine to inspect and it seems to test fine and look fine...
Any ideas or insight welcome

Thanks guys
Adam

[HiaceAdam]

My options are run another new turbo driver on my ecu (and pray it doesn't kill it) or... Buy a new ecu ($1400) and a new turbo driver ($650) on top of the $2000 I just spent on the turbo this thing is killing me....

[TOYZX]

Surely Toyota has a series of tests for the ecu itself?! I know it's a long shot at alot of stealerships but have you tried taking it to them?

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

[HiaceAdam]

I've sent the ecu to a tech for testing... as far as he is aware it tests up fine but said that doesn't mean it's actually still good...
I bit the bullet and ordered a new ecu... only because this particular part number is known to fail 89661-26E80 and seems to be quite a rare ecu....

[HiaceAdam]

After a lot of hours and $$$ I have finally solved my issue... After unplugging the turbo driver and the actuator i tested across all the pins on the turbo driver for continuity and found 3 pins shorting out... which in turn was frying turbo drivers when plugging them in after fixing the short(s) i was then getting a P2564 ("A" circuit low) and tracked that to a bad connection at the actuator... (sounds so easy to write it here )

[hiluxxury]

It does do you have pics?

I ask as it might help us all - mud and dust at the connection at the actuator.

[martynvella]

Sorry I didn't tune in to this thread earlier.
I know it is easy to come up with stuff after the problem is solved but this opinion may help someone it the future.

I think it would be improbable that a faulty ECU would physically damage a driver unit, the driver may get its operating supply, ie positive and negative from the ECU, but all other connections between the two are usually just data via a CAN connection, 4 wires between the two would indicate this. If the driver has its own power supply then the 4 wires are probably 2 one way coms circuits for faster operation.

A fault in the ECU could generate a code that indicates a driver fault but you proved that the drivers were physically damaged so that should have ruled out being caused by an ECU fault.

Troubleshooting flow charts are a guide and probably do exist in the Toyota system but that info would be very hard to get, its the only thing that gives the dealers the edge, new laws dictate that the manufacturers have to make available the information to enable the repairs of the vehicles, but it does not state that they have to make available the tools they have to simplify the application of the information made available.