1KD pistons cracking, the rebuild solution.

[fourby4diesel]

IMHO the DLC coated baileys injectors are superiour to new denso ones as they last longer and are more tolerant of fuel contamination

Sorry, but obviously you don't know injectors as well as you seem to know engines.
I have experienced different to your honest opinion.
So my honest opinion based on hundreds of examples is stick with brand new DENSO. Genuine payers all the way.

[fourby4diesel]

I was not aware that the new denso wones are dlc coated, if so there is probably no real difference between them than the price the remanufactured units from baileys are cheaper than denso, the only other difference is that the baileys ones use proven and reused injector bodies and come as sets that are picked to more closely match in flow. They all have a correction code to put into the computer because no two injectors have quite the same flow rates at the same supply pressure but baileys pick from a large number of them and divide them into sets that are the closest match. The computer using the correction code can vary the open time to obtain the same quantities from each injector but to do this the computer varies the pulse time length, shorter for a higher flowing injector or longer pulse for a slower flowing one. this is a source of asymetry in engine function that while it can be lived with in a functioning engine and does no damage it is not ideal from an efficency perspective.

Some of that sounds lie marketing fluff & gue.

Purchase price may be a a couple hundred less. When purchasing products, if one lasts longer than the other, even if its price is higher, over time it's cheaper.
I have used a very high number of new denso & plenty baileys too.
Never had an issue with a new DENSO!, but had a number of baileys not satisfactory, either from start up, 14,000k, 35,000k & other failures within 2 years. Baileys have somewhat covered parts for those jobs under warranty.
There are plenty that have got 200,000k out of their original DENSO, now these new ones are improved, it's 10 years later.
Who wants to be doing this job every year or 2? No Thankx. Genuine parts please 5-6-7 years Thankx!
Anyway, I was the guy who thought & believed in theory & marketing that the BDG are going to be the goods
The genuine toyota revised coated washers often last 200,000klms+ I have only ever found 2 sets with one leaking under 200,000k. Most are over 200,000k!
The average I have found the baileys brass washers leaking is 9,000k-20,000k, i have seen dozens of them
To my knowledge, None of my customer base have been re-embursed for the failed washers replacement.
Use what you like, but for as long as I'm working on these, I will post the latest up to date facts, to keep the public in the loop, social media!

Cheers punjehl & all!

[punjehl]

you are correct i have less experience with injectors than engines what you say is interesting, it seems you have fitted plenty of them, and know your stuff. i would expect brasss sealing washers to be inferior to aluminium or copper as they would take a larger force to form a metal to metal deformation seal. So far the hilux i rebuilt, The first one of these 1kd-ftv motors i have rebuilt is going strong, produces absolutely no smoke under all conditions feels like it has more power than a stock one when new (seat of pants measurement not really reliable or quantifiable we have not put it on a dyno) . This is not suprising after the porting job that it breaths better. With my primitive flow bench ( an old vacuum cleaner, cup like attachment that fits over the cylinder head face covering one valve only and a vacuum gage . It showed about 10% less pressure drop across the exhaust valves after the porting and about 20% less pressure drop across the intake valves but a huge 40% less pressure drop across the intake valves at 2mm open from trimming and radiusing the the valve opening into the head.

it has been getting an error code p1251 and the freeze frame says about 300 seconds after take off. i think i may not remember the number correctly but it said on the chart turbo actuator fault intermittent and goes into limp mode till next start , has any one else experienced this error ? I suspect that the vane ring in the turbo is getting stiff from rusting like many others have experienced we will atempt to de rust it and clean it then lube it with dry moly disulphide as it has an oxidation breakdown temperature of around 650 degrees c and may last a while in the hot environment the turbo certainly feels stiff when i took of the actuator link rod and moved the vane ring by hand. toyota just replace the whole turbo. i will post a breakdown and photos of the procedure to free up the turbo vane ring and associated parts and will probably dissassemble the servo motor unit and clean and re grease it while it is off, it cant hurt and will probably last longer with fresh grease.

[fourby4diesel]

Sometimes, Just try cleaning the linkage arm from the dc motor
But if you have had it off maybe not this time.
Some ppl report this code with full blank.

[fourby4diesel]

Here's a typical brass washer:



Your thoughts?

[fourby4diesel]

[fourby4diesel]

What happened here?

[TOYZX]

Wow that looks like it took some getting out!

Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk

[fourby4diesel]

Yeah that was one of the most difficult I have had.
Skills have been put to the test the last few months.

[fourby4diesel]

Punjehl what's your thoughts?

[fourby4diesel]

Contact area on cap nut

[Rocket55]

Please stick to the topic of this thread and not wander off. There are a few deticated injector threads already.

[punjehl]

Hi all i will reply briefly to the above posts about injector seal washers, however the moderator has said that we should stay on the topic of rebuilds and solutions as going into injector details is some what off topic. So if further discussion is required about injectors and their proper sealing maby someone would like to start a new thread. i will answer any further questions about the build here but please respect the moderator regarding topics and private message me if you have any off topic questions or message me to invite comments on another thread regards punjehl

it is clear from the above pictures that these injector seals are not seating properly, for this to occur there must be a miss alignment of the cylinder head sealing face at the bottom of the injector hole for them to seal only on one side like this or the injector body is warped or damaged at the end where it contacts the injector seal, or there was crud on the sealing face of the injector or in the bottom of the hole, if the two faces are not parallel they will not seal as there is inadequate pressure to crush them more than a tiny fraction of a mm with the design of the injector clamps. A washer with a narrower sealing face would allow more crush to effect a proper seal. It is very easy to damage the sealing face on the injector by cleaning off the crud with a hard metal tool as the end of the injector body is mild and very soft steel and is easily damaged when cleaning before installation. the other possibility is that the washers themselves are not manufactured well and do not have parallel faces . Brass also is much less crushable than soft alloy or anealed copper

the trick i rekon would be some washers that are mildly conical on both sides and made of anealed copper a little thicker than standard this would allow an edge contact rather than a face contact and give allowance for the washer to properly crush to a gas tight seal. The other option would be to use hollow soft metal o rings of the right size. greasing the clamp bolt threads and heads will also give a more consistent seal at the correct torque setting. another trick would be to thinly solder coat the washers prior to installation if there is a miss alignment issue, the solder is very soft and would effect a good crush seal. this is what the alloy coated copper washers are trying to do but IMO the alloy coat is too thin and hard. i have solder coated injector washers in older indirect injection diesels with worn cylinder head sealing faces that get inadequate amounts of crush when they bite on the top brass seal rings. the engine in question is still running happily after more than 100,000km. the lead is too soft by it self to last but as a coating it works well but getting it to stick to the alloy coated ones requires hand lapping on wet and dry on a glass plate to remove the alloy coat so the solder will stick. happy scratching

[fourby4diesel]

I only mentioned injectors, as you bought it up.
Now we have started, although I agree it's off topic, I think we need to finish the education. But in short.

Yes there is often surface imperfections in head/seat or Injector cap nuts which are in fact very hard material.
I have purposely tried to damage them & it's not happening. We only use timber Dowel & soft rag to clean in injector ports. Yes the Injectors do flex & banana, clamped at the top.

This is why copper must be used, (soft & flexi) the washers are a gasket & it's job is to squash & flex to close the surface imperfections. Those images are of brass washers that came with baileys Injectors. You ate right, they don't squash. Because brass is actually very hard as it has alloys, which are also too hard for this task.

The genuine Toyota washers, used with genuine injectors, have proven to withstand leaks in most cases for over 200,000k.

Genuine parts bloke.
Over & out on this thread

If you want to learn more:

viewtopic.php?f=29&t=13749&p=405153#p405153

[Jaydenlux]

Hi, this might be a bit off topic but you sound like you know a bit.
My 1kd has 170,000 kms and just replaced injecters and it's still knocking and blowing a white/blue smoke at 2500rpm and under load (maybe boost) do you know what's wrong with it. Cheers mate

[jonno_ute]

Hi Pinjehl, Thanks for all the info. I've just had my 2010 hilux crack a piston almost completely in half.
Like you found, there's a lot of pistons available with not much detail. When I look at the latest piston part number 13101-30200 on eBay it appears to be very similar to the old one. The Hypatec piston that you used with the 62.3mm diameter bowl do you know if it is a copy of an original part number? Hypatec seem to be the only large diameter piston I can find. How is the one you rebuilt going? Would you recommend them?