EGR PO400 Trouble code still ON ?

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Re: EGR PO400 Trouble code still ON ?

Postby DeadlyBeast on Tue, 01 Dec 2020 6:52 +0000

Hi Moose.
Did you use a new gasket when replacing the EGR cooler?
I assume you have cleaned the MAF sensor
Have you cleaned the MAP filter too?
Check it for a hairline crack while the filter is out and check the vacuum lines for cracks

Clean MAP filter
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Re: EGR PO400 Trouble code still ON ?

Postby MrMoose on Wed, 02 Dec 2020 9:28 +0000

Hey DeadlyBeast,

Thanks for chiming in.

Yes, I've actually used all new gaskets when I replaced the EGR cooler. But I've re used them a few times now re -cleaning the EGR and inspecting some things.

Yes, have cleaned the MAF sensor as well as replaced it with second hand not brand new as they are fairly expensive.

I have cleaned the MAP filter but I haven't checked it for hairline cracks. In saying that I have tried bypassing the MAP filter to see if anything changes (on DLE ONLY NOT WHILE DRIVING) for a few minutes to see if the g/s would drop to 8-10 g/s from 14-16 g/s. Not sure if this is a adequate test to diagnose anything but I might have thought a crack in the MAP filter might be causing this. I will try to replace it and see.

To be honest regarding checking vacuum lines this would have to be a visual inspection as I don't know of any other way. But in saying this I have taken off the vacuum lines to clean them and didn't notice and cracks or pits in them.

I do appreciate your help, so I will try the MAP filter and replace it with a new one. As my MPA reading on my diagnostic tool was reading 80 AT IDLE cold and warm. I've also replaced the MAP sensor as well as replaced the IAT sensor.

We'll I'll see how I go.
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Re: EGR PO400 Trouble code still ON ?

Postby DeadlyBeast on Wed, 02 Dec 2020 4:48 +0000

It sounds like you have given it a real thorough going over.
A visual inspection of vac lines is fine unless you have reason to suspect they may be blocked.

When did it first start throwing a code and had any work been done on it around that time?

Below is a search result of possible causes

- clogged or restricted EGR passages
- sticking or clogged EGR valve
- stuck open EGR valve
- clogged or leaking vacuum line for the EGR valve
- problem with EGR valve position sensor
- cracked or restricted vacuum line to the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor
- clogged catalytic converter
- carbon deposits (soot) on the EGR temperature sensor (Nissan)
- faulty mass airflow sensor (MAF)
- open or short in the EGR temperature sensor circuit
- misrouted vacuum lines
- electrical problem with the EGR valve control circuit
- engine computer

Being an 07 I'd check the wiring looms also - insulation abrasions etc
If you like, post a a few pics of the engine bay/EGR/Vac line routing etc.
Some eagle eyed members are good at spotting possible issues
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Re: EGR PO400 Trouble code still ON ?

Postby MrMoose on Fri, 04 Dec 2020 2:31 +0000

Hi DeadlyBeast,

Mate, there's a whole story behind this car when I purchased it from someone but I really don't have the patience to explain the story.

I really got screwed when the owner told me "You're buying a great car" only to realise the next morning from driving the ute home I had an engine light turn on and the code was P0400. This was in back in Feb.
Long story short I found the main vac line was d/c from vac pump as well as the vac lines to the intake actuator/bezzle. I found this out on my own even when I asked Mr Injector man from youtube to have a quick look at it, which he did, but he explained "Could be this, could be that, this is leaking, that is leaking" another so called "mechanic" but in actuality he's just a salesman that loves $$$$ (my opinion anyway).

After cleaning the EGR, replacing the EGR cooler, new gaskets, new injectors, The code finally disappeared but only lasted for about 4 months and the darn thing came back.

I'm at the point where I am starting to think the air intake is the culprit. I haven't cleaned that yet. From looking at your list of possible cause 'possible restricted air intake' isn't on that list so I'm going to to put that on the back burner for the time being.

Here is what I've done so far from you list
clogged or restricted EGR passages <-- Cleaned a few times
- sticking or clogged EGR valve <-- Triple checked as well as cleaned few times
- stuck open EGR valve **Not really sure how to check this**
- clogged or leaking vacuum line for the EGR valve <-- Visually checked and cleaned most of the lines
- problem with EGR valve position sensor <-- Replaced this with secondhand
- cracked or restricted vacuum line to the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor <-- Took these off and literally blew in them to hear any hissing sounds but nothing, visually look OK
- clogged catalytic converter ** Not sure if this Hilux has one **
- carbon deposits (soot) on the EGR temperature sensor (Nissan) ** N/A **
- faulty mass airflow sensor (MAF) <-- Replaced with 2 secondhand ones
- open or short in the EGR temperature sensor circuit ** Not sure if the 07 Hilux has this **
- misrouted vacuum lines ** Not sure how to check this as I am not bale to find a proper diagram **
- electrical problem with the EGR valve control circuit ** Haven't tested this **
- engine computer ** Haven't tested this **

I will post a few pics later on after I do a few checks on the engine.

Thanks heaps for your help.
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Re: EGR PO400 Trouble code still ON ?

Postby DeadlyBeast on Sat, 05 Dec 2020 6:01 +0000

Good information
That may help other members identify an issue

Interesting that the vac lines were disconnected.... I wonder why this was done.
Had the previous owner installed an egr blank plate?
There should be a CAT near the dump pipe end between two flexi joints unless it has been removed. Makes it tricky when you have been handed someone else's tinkering.

Keep at it mate. You'll find the cause.
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Re: EGR PO400 Trouble code still ON ?

Postby Gipsy on Sat, 05 Dec 2020 6:14 +0000

After reading there's maybe a clue here; "After cleaning the EGR, replacing the EGR cooler, new gaskets, new injectors, The code finally disappeared but only lasted for about 4 months and the darn thing came back."... This means something you did changed the parameters of the problem. My first thought was the previous owner disconnected the vacuum lines to either stop the fault or some folks tried disconnecting the vacuum lines shut the EGR down.

Is it possible that you partially fixed it but the EGR valve is the culprit since you renewed all the other stuff? Maybe still sticking open?
Sometimes it pays to do one thing at a time to pinpoint the cause, such as swap out the EGR valve?

I wonder if a techstream analysis could shed some light?
I also wonder if the previous owner fiddled with the EGR, possibly ecu tune? Wonder why those vacuum lines were disconnected?
On reading mrmoose again it seems that one of the sensors is telling the EGR valve to open causing the fault. EGR is also turned on and off by the intake air temp sensor on the air cleaner. This may be intermittent? So maybe it's not the EGR valve after all? Can the following link shed some light? I found the pdf using Google putting in p0400
http://www.baileysdiesel.com › P04...PDF
Fault Codes – P0400/71– EGR Flow - Baileys Diesel Group
Cheers Gipsy :D although I'm sure somebody will challenge that :lol: even Einstein wasn't certain of his theories.
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Re: EGR PO400 Trouble code still ON ?

Postby MrMoose on Sat, 05 Dec 2020 11:17 +0000

:idea: DeadlyBeast

Had the previous owner installed an egr blank plate?

I have no clue as I've never asked the previous owner. To be honest I wouldn't have known to ask a question like that while not knowing anything about the engine. I should've done my homework before purchasing this ute but I was in a jam and thought "The owner wouldn't sell my a problematic car". But some people just don't care.


Hi Gipsy, thanks for your input. Below I've answered some of your questions.
My first thought was the previous owner disconnected the vacuum lines to either stop the fault or some folks tried disconnecting the vacuum lines shut the EGR down.

There is a lot of truth to this. I believe that the previous owner was experiencing the P0400 code as well. Either him or his mechanic couldn't figure out how to fix it and d/c the vacuum lines to stop the problem but the Engine light came on anyway when I bought the car the next day so not sure if their plan was working. Will the engine light come on with d/c vacuum lines? I assume yes. If the engine light came on while vacuum lines d/c maybe the previous owner kept erasing the code? Not sure.
What I am sure of is that since the vacuum lines were d/c it caused the brakes not to work effectively. I say this because on the second day of owning the Ute (not knowing that the vacuum lines had been d/c) while driving on the way home from work, the car in front of me stopped short and I slammed on the brakes. The bloody Ute barely stopped causing me to swerve out of the way to avoid rear ending the car in front of me. I thought it was the brakes or just the weight of the HIlux causing this. But only after I replaced the EGR cooler, gaskets, injectors did I realise the vacuum lines were d/c. As I was still learning about how the 1KD FTV operates I wouldn't have known to check the vacuum lines. Once I connected the Vacuum lines the brakes were back working as designed to and the code was gone. AS I previously stated it lasted for about 4 months.


Is it possible that you partially fixed it but the EGR valve is the culprit since you renewed all the other stuff? Maybe still sticking open? Sometimes it pays to do one thing at a time to pinpoint the cause, such as swap out the EGR valve?

I didn't think that the valve was sticking open, my thinking was it was sticking somehow. So, I replaced the EGR. Not brand new as they are around $600 (Genuine Toyota Part) so I bought a second hand and installed it but no luck. Code still comes back. That led me to rule out the EGR totally.

I wonder if a techstream analysis could shed some light?

I'm not to familiar with this. I believe I need software and an adaptor for laptop? Yeah I'm not sure maybe I'll do a search and read up on it unless someone can help out.

On reading mrmoose again it seems that one of the sensors is telling the EGR valve to open causing the fault. EGR is also turned on and off by the intake air temp sensor on the air cleaner.


I've replaced the MAF sensor twice already. I think I can rule this out as being the cause. What I do notice from scan tool is that when I rev the engine to around 3000 Rpms the MAF reading increases so abruptly that I read somewhere on the internet that the MAF reading when accelerating should gradually increase but I'm not sure if this so for the Toyota Hilux.

Can I throw this out there. I have done a lot of reading and at the time didn't think nothing of it but I believe the Throttle Body plays a role in introducing more vacuum to the EGR helping draw out the exhaust gases mixing into the intake. If the throttle body isn't doing it's job so to speak and not closing when commanded, will this cause the ECU to throw the code P0400?

Thanks again for all your help and input.
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Re: EGR PO400 Trouble code still ON ?

Postby Gipsy on Sat, 05 Dec 2020 1:11 +0000

Ok, first the vacuum pump of course powers the brake booster so it was very dangerous and highly illegal for the previous owner to disconnect it!
Second, the blanking plate is fitted where the EGR cooler fits the head so if there was one there you would have seen it. There is not a gasket there and if there were you would notice... The plate can and does cause p0400 so try to remember if one was there. They are either a full blank or one with a hole but you would see it if it was there. The flange is an oval shape with 2 nuts on the front side of the head in the front of the EGR cooler.
The techstream software and obd adapter is available online, just search on newhilux for techstream and the link is here.
viewtopic.php?t=16394

Are you familiar with how the codes are generated? Once the engine reaches normal temperature the system does a check and stores any codes until they reach a threshold number (4 I think) then displays a code and mil light on the dash. Your obd reader shows pending codes if you check.
Early Kun26 Hilux had crap brakes and there is a fix here on newhilux if you search.
Ok I see that you have almost replaced everything that matters so the problem is still hiding somewhere and bound to be something elusive.
Next step is read the whole thread on techstream and get one, this may be the best you can do at the moment. It is possible the ECU has been tuned but techstream won't know that, even the Toyota mechanic can't tell.
Keep on keeping on, I'm sure you will find the problem. Try to remember if the blanking plate was in there, it could be the source of your trouble.
Cheers Gipsy :D although I'm sure somebody will challenge that :lol: even Einstein wasn't certain of his theories.
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Re: EGR PO400 Trouble code still ON ?

Postby MrMoose on Sun, 06 Dec 2020 6:32 +0000

Hey GIpsy,

I'll look into the fix for the brakes on this site but ever since I reconnected the vacuum hoses I haven't had a problem with braking since.

As for the blanking plate I can safely say 100% there wasn't one when I bought the car. From doing massive research to learn how the EGR system operates and what components are involved, when replacing the EGR cooler (definitely looked like the original EGR cooler when removing) there was no blanking plate or any plate whatsoever installed, so that can be ruled out.

I'm definitely going to look to purchase the tech stream software and the OBD2 adapter. The thing is this, hypothetically speaking, if the ECU has been tuned how will I know this? From what you're stating that techstream won't know that it has, how would I be able to determine this?
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Re: EGR PO400 Trouble code still ON ?

Postby martynvella on Sun, 06 Dec 2020 6:59 +0000

Have a look at what sensors are involved in the system and try to borrow a set from a working vehicle and swap out one at a time. In my industry it is a faulty sensor giving misleading information more often than not.
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Re: EGR PO400 Trouble code still ON ?

Postby Gipsy on Sun, 06 Dec 2020 7:29 +0000

MrMoose, did you have a look at that Bailey's pdf? Google p0400 hilux and click the Bailey's link.
Techstream won't know if you have an ecu tune but it will give you diagnostics of all the sensors involved. There are several pages of people's various techstream data and worthwhile comments on what is seen. The Bailey's pdf gives you a process of elimination for why you have a p0400 code.

Look at this link: viewtopic.php?f=81&t=20228&p=435025#p435025
Cheers Gipsy :D although I'm sure somebody will challenge that :lol: even Einstein wasn't certain of his theories.
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Re: EGR PO400 Trouble code still ON ?

Postby MrMoose on Sun, 06 Dec 2020 6:57 +0000

martynvella wrote:Have a look at what sensors are involved in the system and try to borrow a set from a working vehicle and swap out one at a time. In my industry it is a faulty sensor giving misleading information more often than not.


Hey Marty,
I've replaced almost every sensor that involves the EGR. Obviously not at the same time. I used process of elimination when replacing and then after replacing said part I would watch the graph or scan tool to see if there was any discrepancy from the two parts.
The following have been replaced:
- MAF (Mass Air Flow)
- MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor
- EGR position sensor
- EGR Valve
- VSV 2 (Vacuum Switching Valve)
- IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor

Components I haven't replaced
- Throttle Body
- VRV - tested (waiting on part to arrive)
- VSV 1 - tested
- Vacuum pump
- Vacuum hoses - visually tested
- Swirl actuator -
- Vacuum control valves for swirl actuator

Gipsy wrote:MrMoose, did you have a look at that Bailey's pdf? Google p0400 hilux and click the Bailey's link.


Yes I did and thanks for that. It has some very good information. I've done most of the tests they recommend that I found on another website. I haven't done the wire harness tests though. I would need some time and few cold ones to dive into the relay harness as well as the harness to ECU from the VRV

From what that pdf says (which is GOLD) if the below condition is met a DTC will be set:
"Difference between target and actual position of EGR valve is 25% or more for 69 seconds or more (1 trip detection logic)" <--- This is huge! Finally this is what the ECU looks for to set off the P0400.

I order the mini VCI cable from EBAY as I couldn't wait for it to come from the US or the UK as what some members recommended the website to buy from. Can't wait to download the software and connect the car to it. Looks very exciting to see exactly what the engine is doing.
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Re: EGR PO400 Trouble code still ON ?

Postby Gipsy on Mon, 07 Dec 2020 4:58 +0000

eBay should be ok, that's where I got mine. It comes with a software cd. The "Difference between target and actual position of EGR valve is 25% or more for 69 seconds or more (1 trip detection logic)" <--- This is huge! Finally this is what the ECU looks for to set off the P0400. Is most likely the problem and techstream will identify it. :D just need to find out why the difference. There is a way to turn off the whole EGR using a resistor in the ambient air temperature circuit in the air box... It fools the ecu to think the intake air is 0 degrees C. I haven't tried it but it's about $20 on eBay.
Check this out, and have a read of the "read full description"

https://www.ebay.com.au/i/162562040332? ... EYQAvD_BwE
Cheers Gipsy :D although I'm sure somebody will challenge that :lol: even Einstein wasn't certain of his theories.
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Re: EGR PO400 Trouble code still ON ?

Postby MrMoose on Sun, 13 Dec 2020 2:30 +0000

Hey legends,

So, I did a bit of DIY diagnostics today and have noticed something strange. In another post I've explained that I've noticed this EGR bypass valve arm to be in the 'closed position' @ 12 o'clock when the ECU noticed something it didn't like at the same time the P0400 showed up. So after my DIY diagnostics today with my scan tool and my intuition, I noticed that upon startup at idle, with the engine being cold, the EGR bypass valve was open and the rod thingy was at @10 o'clock.

The scan tool is a cheap $100 one but it does the job for some basics readings. My MAF readings were in tolerance(5-12 g/s, the EGR_PCT% (Commanded EGR) and EGR_ERR% (Actual EGR) were reading within spec. I thought everything was wonderful and it fixed itself at this stage, just besides the MAP which was reading around 78/80 kpa which I believe is low according to reference values.

This is where it gets interesting. While monitoring the data and watching the engine at the same time, all of sudden the EGR bypass valve just closed @ 12 o'clock position?? I quickly went to the scan tool when I noticed that the MAF was reading around 12-15 g/s, out of spec, and the EGR_PCT% and EGR_ERR% were way out of the 25% threshold needed to not throw a code.

I did this a couple of times with the engine cold and letting it idle up to warm and came to realise that the EGR bypass suddenly closes at the 12 o'clock position when the ECT reaches exactly or above 75°C. I mean I did this about 5-6 times letting the engine coolant temp get below 75°C and had the same result. The EGR bypass valve would stay open, 10 o'clock position, below 75°C and suddenly close, at the 12 o'clock position, when the engine coolant temperature reached 75°C or above all while engine was idling.

Would this mean that the ECU in this car has been programmed this way on purpose? I mean I think this would make sense since the original owner disconnected the vacuum hoses to the VSV, VRV and swirl control valves and maybe decided to get someone to program this feature in? I mean would this be possible? I'm thinking now that there was no VIN # recorded on the ECU when I ran techstream, so I'm starting to think the ECU might have been tampered with?

This has to mean something to somebody on this forum. Anyone care to chime in please?

Below is a pic of the EGR bypass valve. FYI I know the cap is broken on the VRV, I've order the part and waiting on delivery for replacement.

Image
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Re: EGR PO400 Trouble code still ON ?

Postby DeadlyBeast on Sun, 13 Dec 2020 5:21 +0000

Hi Moose good post
Its normal for the EGR to cycle in and out several times during warm up. I believe this is what helps the engine warm up faster.

I wonder if the missing vacuum regulating valve filter may possibly cause the fault alone or if the valve itself has been damaged as a result of ?km without filtration

PM sent
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Re: EGR PO400 Trouble code still ON ?

Postby MrMoose on Sun, 13 Dec 2020 6:52 +0000

DeadlyBeast wrote:Hi Moose good post

I wonder if the missing vacuum regulating valve filter may possibly cause the fault alone or if the valve itself has been damaged as a result of ?km without filtration

PM sent


Funny you say this. Where the filter cap is supposed to be on the VRV(in my case it's broken and missing) there's an outlet hole on the top of the VRV. So, while the engine was warming up on idle, I put my finger on the top of the VRV where the hole was (where the black filter cap is supposed to be) and would you believe I can feel suction vacuum pressure there! I did this a few times and I can literally hear, although very slightly, the engine idling sound change.

I'm sure the hole is not supposed to be covered as I did in my test, but maybe the black filter cap provides a restriction like a one way valve or something in that nature or maybe it does need to be covered to prevent release of vacuum pressure? Or maybe it's a one way valve that it's supposed only let air out into the atmosphere not suck it in. That is probably where my vacuum leak could be? This is very interesting. I literally can't wait until this VRV gets delivered so I can test it out.

Will update the post once I try it out. In saying that I believe one of the other valves that control the swirl valve looks like it's a bit loose to so I'm hoping that didn't break as well when trying to diagnose components today. Hopefully not but we'll have to see as that would be a REAL B***H to get them off.

I hope to have some good news in the following days when this VRV gets delivered.

Cheers.
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Re: EGR PO400 Trouble code still ON ?

Postby MrMoose on Mon, 14 Dec 2020 4:55 +0000

**Update**

So, the VRV arrived today and replaced the the VRV with no luck. Darn thing still spits out the P0400.

Few things...

1. Toyota (not going to name and shame them) YOUR technicians WERE in WRONG their DIAGNOSIS. I replaced the VSV and VRV and still code shows up. I would like my $268 back (year right). Stealerships are the correct term for them. Pathetic.

2. You can still have the filter caps missing from the VSV and VRV and the car won't throw a code. Mine were missing for 4 months and no DTC. I think they are just that, FILTER caps. Through my trial and error replacing the VSV and VRV so they have filter caps did not fix my P0400.

3. Back to the drawing board

I'm really a bit amazed how there isn't a person on this website that can explain how the EGR operates. I'm not talking about the theory part of it. I'm talking about how the mechanics of them actually work with the engines ECU. There has to be someone or something somewhere that can explain the sequence of EGR operation.

Well back to DIY diagnosis. Thanks again for everyone's help and support. Hope to be back soon with a positive update.
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Re: EGR PO400 Trouble code still ON ?

Postby DeadlyBeast on Mon, 14 Dec 2020 6:10 +0000

That sucks mate
Not sure if anyone fully understands the EGR system :?
Give Fourby4Diesel a call. He is in Hillside, Melb.
Let him know what has gone on - he should be able to point you in the right direction

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrU9q4BP0RmGdmixPWRuo5A/search?query=P0400
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Re: EGR PO400 Trouble code still ON ?

Postby hiluxxury on Wed, 16 Dec 2020 5:57 +0000

^^ X2 for that. Have a look at all of his related videos on the topic first - might need to book some quiet time to watch as he goes on a bit :lol:
I might be wrong.

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Re: EGR PO400 Trouble code still ON ?

Postby MrMoose on Wed, 16 Dec 2020 3:28 +0000

Hey legends,

I've been on his youtube channel watch most of his videos and he has some great information if you can get through the the mumbo jumbo. I think he should concentrate on getting to the point besides rambling on most of the time. lol just my opinion only no disrespect.

Well, bit of an update and it's not looking good gents. Driving home from work today and lost boost power. Didn't feel like limp mode as I still had the power of the engine pumping. The turbo is now whining like a siren when hard acceleration. I pulled over quickly and put my cheap scanner on. Not sure why because I can't diagnose the Turbo with that scan tool. But I felt like I had to and noticed something. MAP reading was pinged on 80 kpa no less no more. It did not move at all even when I was looking at the data while driving. It sat at 80 kpa. I think I have a big problem here. Anyone know what's the go here?

Cheers.
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