EGR PO400 Trouble code still ON ?

Turbo, Manifolds, Exhaust, Intercooler, Internals etc

Re: EGR PO400 Trouble code still ON ?

Postby DeadlyBeast on Wed, 16 Dec 2020 8:31 +0000

Having a rough trot there but that sound may point to your original issue
Check out this thread and post by Kizza
https://www.newhilux.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=81&t=23732

Kizzzaaa wrote:I had this problem after i cleaned my egr\intake manifold out. Turned out to be the gasket between the intercooler and intake manifold. (the one running 90° down near firewall with 3 bolts). Lined it up properly, tightened the bolts and all fixed.


Hopefully just a misaligned gasket or loose hose clamp and not something that bent the turbo blades.


Some members have reported the alternator making a siren noise but given your loss of boost not likely.
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Re: EGR PO400 Trouble code still ON ?

Postby MrMoose on Fri, 18 Dec 2020 1:25 +0000

Thanks for the reply deadlybeast.

Definitely helped a lot. I found a vacuum hose that was torn and dislodged from under the map sensor where the nipple is. MY guess is from taking it on and off so many times it developed a tear and due to vibration it fell off cause my turbo boost to be non existent. But still getting the P0400 only this time my EGR values are within spec. The 25% threshold is not even close now. The values are very close to each other but the ECU sees something it doesn't like and is throwing the P0400 code.

I'm missing something just don't know what it is. I won't give up. I will find the culprit.
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Re: EGR PO400 Trouble code still ON ?

Postby MrMoose on Sat, 19 Dec 2020 8:14 +0000

Ok peoples,

I've spent a lot of time doing some research and DIY diagnostics. I've come to educate myself on this 1KD-FTV engine and I think I'm starting to slightly understand it a bit more.

So, this is my DIY diagnosis:

1. EGR cooler exhaust could be blocked/restricted. Even though I replaced it with a brand new genuine Toyota part back in April. I remember when I looked in the exhaust outlet that feeds into the arm of the EGR cooler it was almost blocked. Why I didn't clean who knows, maybe I thought it would break down somehow. Not sure.

2. Intake manifold gasket leaking So I was looking at the vacuum hoses that feed into the swirl valve actuator from underneath the vehicle to make sure they were still on and noticed that there was sweating/oil residue around the intake manifold gasket. Could be leaking.

3. Intake manifold possibly restricted/blocked Since I have owned the vehicle I've never gotten that far as to give the manifold a good clean. I wish Anthony would have told me to clean the intake manifold when I replaced the injectors that I bought from him but he just assumed I would watch all his vids. Whatever I'm not a fan of him anyways. I think he just wants you to buy his products and watch his videos. Just my opinion.

4. Vacuum pump is measuring 29 inHg Now I've read somewhere this is out of spec. Should be around 15-22inHg warmed up at IDLE but I am not sure if it was directed towards the 1KD-FTV. So, if I'm not mistaken at snap throttle the vacuum gauge should go to zero and slowly creep back down around 15-22inHg (there's a lot of variables/conditions that should be taken to account to make this test work). I performed this test and the needle moved to around 20inHg and quickly went back to 29inHg. Need some more research into this before I go messing around with the vacuum.

5.Intake manifold pressure has no vacuum At IDLE/warmed up, I put my gauge inline with the map sensor hose and pipe of intake and the needle was erratic at around 0 kPa -10 kPa. I was under the impression that my gauge should read around 90 - 100 kPa? Maybe something wrong here. Did some digging up on the internet and could be worn/loose valves causing this? Not to confident though. Need more research.

6. ECU has a calibration ID recorded I'm guessing here but I'm wondering if this ECU has the wrong calibration on it. I mean I'm sure it was re-flashed/ reprogrammed/tuned at one point. Not sure but if all else fails I will be replacing the ECU.

So, my actions are:

1. Disassemble EGR again and clean it out, install new gaskets since I've reused them a fair bit.
2. Disassemble EGR Cooler and give it a good clean out with new gaskets.
3. Disassemble intake manifold and clean the bejesus out of it, install new gaskets.
4. Cover holes on engine block to clean out soot and any build up
5. Assemble everything back together and pray to god that the P0400 doesn't come back.

Wish me luck and will update on my progress.
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Re: EGR PO400 Trouble code still ON ?

Postby Gipsy on Sun, 20 Dec 2020 4:59 +0000

Ok good luck mrmoose hope you get to the bottom of this soon, top marks for trying and persistence!
I would guess the vacuum at idle isn't the problem as it appears to be working properly, and 29inHg at idle verifies that, it's not surprising that it goes down with the snap throttle and returns to 29 without any demands being placed on it.
It is possible that the exhaust outlet (problem 1) connection at where the EGR meets the head is clogged, that would definitely reduce EGR flow, but so would a blanking plate with the 7 mm hole so it's possibly not that. If you say it was almost blocked, there's the possible cause.
Problem 5 the manifold pressure would be low at idle because the turbo has not produced boost until it gets told to ;)
The biggie is the ECU... Maybe someone had a play with it and it's out of specifications. No need to replace, just reflash or tune it, under dyno investigation a good tuner would spot a problem. Replacing it is definitely a last resort.
Cheers Gipsy :D although I'm sure somebody will challenge that :lol: even Einstein wasn't certain of his theories.
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Re: EGR PO400 Trouble code still ON ?

Postby MrMoose on Sun, 10 Jan 2021 3:36 +0000

Hey Lads,

I am tired. I just spend yesterday and today cleaning the guts out of the air intake manifold, EGR Valve, EGR Cooler and installed new gaskets. Started her up and she is doing the same thing. Damn P0400! I just don't understand this f*****g engine and the EGR system. Seriously, this is just pathetic. For Toyota to attach a fault code (P0400) to a generic f*****g issue that could lead you to anything! I mean c'mon this is a joke.

I really was sold on the 1KD-FTV but I'm starting to think twice now. Seriously, this engine is made for people with tiny hands and arms like the Japs. For a big guy like me I think I need to invest in something else as this vehicle is giving me a headache.

Done ranting. Well, I don't know what else to do to this ute. I'm out of ideas. I think I need to find someone that is knowledgeable about the 1KD-FTV and please don't mention the backyard mechanic fourby4. Not interested.

Just though I'd update my progress so, If I do decide to try something else will let you boys know how I go. Until then I will be on the hunt for a reputable mechanic.

Quick side note: I had my scan tool connected to the vehicle while driving and whenever I would depress the pedal the values for the EGR were spot on. Whenever I let go of the pedal the EGR_PCT% = 90% and EGR_ERR% = 9.4%?? This is every time I did it I would get those values. Otherwise the values were within 1-5% of each other.

Thanks.
Cheers.
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Re: EGR PO400 Trouble code still ON ?

Postby Gipsy on Mon, 11 Jan 2021 4:59 +0000

Mate, you have done it to the max and it's entirely possible that it's just a simple sensor or maybe that ECU tune that's off. Only thing to consider is to experiment with that $20 resistor, or maybe a good dyno tuner but that's not cheap. There can't be many more possibilities left as you've covered all the obvious ones.
Good luck and don't give up, the 1kd isn't too bad and you could have much worse. It's entirely possible that someone had a play with the ECU and the fault is hidden there.

The scan results could throw some light on it for a good tuner.
Cheers Gipsy :D although I'm sure somebody will challenge that :lol: even Einstein wasn't certain of his theories.
My 2013 auto D4D DC SR5, prefilter, 3" exhaust and Chip with egt probe, stock SR5 rims with Toyo Open Country AT2 265/65R/17's
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