Injection Feedback Values

[UnaTerra]

Howdy,

Within this Forum, I've read that the Injection Feedback Values, via Intelligent Tester II, or Techstream, should range -3.0 to + 3.0. Is that correct? If I observe a real time value of -3.6, what does that "mean?"

Eric

[Hellbound]

It would mean its out of spec and possibly needs replacing

[boxhead55]

It means that injector is reducing its idle injection amount by 3.6 to keep a stable idle. In VERY simple terms is leaking a little. You also have to look just above those reading. To idle injection volume.
As there is a LOT which can cause injection feed back values. You have to look at all the data and make and informed condition result.

[boxhead55]

Sent u an email
What is the year of yours. 2.5 or 3l

[mitch_893]

Boxhead, just had mine tested

Injector Cold Hot
1 -2.5 -2.5
2 1.4 1.4
3 0.4 -0.2
4 0.4 0.9

They told me 1 is the worst, but isn't technically out of spec and cylinder 2 is just compensating cylinder 1.
It's a January 06 model. Pretty sure 3 and 4 have already been replaced. Would those above readings affect power and economy? They couldn't really give me a straight answer.
I also read on here that being a pre dlc type, I can't enter the compensation codes into the ecu, but toyota was telling me they can? Because I'm thinking of pulling all injectors out, replacing the washers, cleaning the intake manifold and maybe replacing number 1, possibly 2 aswell.

Oh and I havnt checked my oil pickup yet, but they reckon its a motor out job to remove the sump! Surely you could just drop the diff down?

[boxhead55]

Number one cylinder is injecting more fuel then the rest. Thus the -2.5The -2.5 is the fuel the computer is taking away from cylinder one to keep the idle stable. Would be interesting to see you injection value for idle. Which is just above your feed back values.

And number 4 compensates number 1
Not number 2 like you were informed.

As per the firing order

1 3 4 2.

1 and 4 , 2 and 3

Mate if your injector seals are leaking this can also cause the - 2.5 value on number one. As the oil being sucked into the cylinder will be like adding fuel and the computer takes fuel away.

Keeping up?

In all honestly if they are not dimond liquid coated (dlc) injectors it would be worth replacing all 4

And yes of course you can input compensation code for non dlc injectors.

There is a computer update for the dlc injectors when fitted but work fine with out doing that. Bud I do recommend getting the computer reflash done

Cylinder 2 is increasing fuel to the injector possibly caused from being blocked.

Hope this helps.

[Talktheroo]

The best way to attack this issue is to by a Techstream copy from China on Ebay. China, the land of copying.
This will cost you about $30.00, but you do need a notebook with a 32bit operating system.
Once you set this program up, you can check your feedback values.
You start from cold (30 degrees C coolant temperature) and watch the feedback values, 1, 2, 3, and 4, all the way through to 70 to 80 degrees C, coolant temperature. Takes about 1/2 an hour.
If you can't do this, for the members that live in Brisbane, or members passing through, I will check them for free.
You just have to allow for the vehicle cooling down to the above lower temps, usually left at my home over night, that's all.
I'd rather this, then members having piston damage and a rebuild situation, which is expensive.
Just PM me, if you want to organise this free service.
I have made this a free service, because I am sick to death of all the crap that has been going on with this issue. We will see how we go, as a trail.
Catch you later, John.

[Talktheroo]

Boxhead, just had mine tested

Injector Cold Hot
1 -2.5 -2.5
2 1.4 1.4
3 0.4 -0.2
4 0.4 0.9

They told me 1 is the worst, but isn't technically out of spec and cylinder 2 is just compensating cylinder 1.
It's a January 06 model. Pretty sure 3 and 4 have already been replaced. Would those above readings affect power and economy? They couldn't really give me a straight answer.
I also read on here that being a pre dlc type, I can't enter the compensation codes into the ecu, but toyota was telling me they can? Because I'm thinking of pulling all injectors out, replacing the washers, cleaning the intake manifold and maybe replacing number 1, possibly 2 aswell.

Oh and I havnt checked my oil pickup yet, but they reckon its a motor out job to remove the sump! Surely you could just drop the diff down?

Mitch, you will probably have those old copper seats or sheets in your vehicle, as well.
It pays to get these out, and put in 4 new coated seats or sheets.
Three rebuilds that I have done, were caused by these old copper seats. They failed, which lead to the blow by problem.
The sump screen became blocked, then starving the engine of lubrication.
It's a very bad situation, seeing the parts that causes this, are only about $14.00.
The best advise I can give you here, is to avoid this situation by installing new injector seats or sheets.
Catch you later, John.

[mitch_893]

My local dealership is useless. Got very little idea. Said injector test is about 15mins to do. Then said he charges an hours labour...so would be $120. But I'll do ya trade at $80. Told him to stick it and began to drive off. Chased me out and said He'll do it for $44.

See about a year ago I was getting the problem of nose down, rough idle lots of smoke. Issue fixed itself. Then every 3 months I would get the rough idle, bit of smoke on level ground (hot and cold). Run injector cleaner through it, fixed in a week everytime. Last couple of weeks, been pretty bad. Cold starts, fair bit of smoke and rough idle. Hot start, even 2 seconds after turning off, rough idle, stalling but no smoke. Cleaned scv-bit of algae in it, cleaned egr and as much of intake as possible without removal. Drove it and still no difference. Booked it in for injector test, drive to work this morning...no more problems. Starts perfect everytime.

Might just try replacing the injector seals, cleaning the whole manifold and change fuel filter. It's done 240,000ks. Hoping the pickup isn't too blocked, but as I said it really blows little to no smoke when starting cold (when it's not in its 3 month cycle haha) so couldn't be a blown out washer.

[Talktheroo]

240,000kms. It's time you contacted Bailey's Group, my mate, for a set of their injectors.
PM me, if you like, and I will talk to you on the phone.
The injector cleaner thing, is just a band aid solution with that amount of kms on them.
You are going to have to bite the bullet and replace the injectors, thus the seats and the seals.
While you are at it, clean the elbow, the EGR value, the extension housing, and the throttle body (venturi).
You will need gloves for this job, as that black stuff is toxic.
You will also need to clean around the inlet manifold port.
It is a good idea to install a catch can at this point, or a couple of weeks later. You will see what I mean when you clean these components.
A tip : Cut up an ice cream container lid into scrapers, and use heaps of carb cleaner and degreaser. Make sure you don't get water into any of the plugs. I always finish off with a old toothbrush when cleaning these components and then compressed air.
Be warned, it's a big job, and if you are alright with the spanners and have a good quality torque wrench, and a set of crowfoot wrench set (17mm and 12mm), I can help you with the job, by phone.
Link : http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CROWFOOT-WRE ... 43c1595acb
Link : http://precisiontools.warrenandbrown.co ... 3$OR$8/139
Catch you later, John.

[mitch_893]

Thanks John

It's had 2 injectors replaced at about 170,000. Was before I owned the car. Already cleaned egr and elbow and suction control valve. Running perfectly now. Can't fault it. I think the root of my problem is the diesel algae. The cleaner I use is specific for killing the algae. To me, if the injectors were completely stuffed, the problem wouldn't come and go so dramatically. Note:I get no death rattles. Only for the first 30 seconds of stone cold driving do I get slightly louder rattling. Which I belive is normal for these(injecting more fuel to heat up quicker).
Almost a qualified mechanic so yeah fine to do all the work.
Thanks

[Talktheroo]

I have seen Prados and Hiluxes with no death rattles, but their feedback values were high.
I mean, like 4.3mm3 type read outs.
The only way to know for sure, is a diagnostic tool plugged in on cold start.
Algae is not a good thing for CRD engines. Most definitely, have to fix that problem.
Catch you later, John.

[mitch_893]

Well dropped the oil today. Pickup screen was 100% spotless. Not bad for the Kay's on it! So I guess my washers arnt leaking too bad.

[Talktheroo]

Well, we know Mitch, that at least two of the injectors have had new seats or sheets installed in the cylinder head ports. So, it's good that the sump screen was all clear.
Checking the screen every time you drop the engine oil should be part of your maintenance schedule with the 1KD-FTVs. Prevention is always going to be better than the cure.
Catch you later, John.

[UnaTerra]

Been away for a bit... travelling will try to post pics of my rig soon.

What is the expected water coolant temperature range (if you give me C I'll convert to F) when fully warmed?

[boxhead55]

85to 89 c

[boxhead55]

They don't look pritty when they been leaking when you remove them

[mattwhite]

Better than Hyundai Iloads. They tear the thread for the clamp out of the head and turn the injector into a sniper bullet.

[Talktheroo]

Yes, blow by is a serious issue, and should be taken serious by all owners of Hiluxes, Landcruisers and Prados. It takes out the block if not discovered.
The Roo.

[boxhead55]

Landcruiser uses the same injectors and seals and is identical but has hydraulic lash adjusters for the tappets. So no tappet inspection is require and there is no replacement time for the injector seals on the 1vd.
I have taken this point up with the powers to be and they have said yep! And that's it.

On a side note. If you have has the pleasure. Well the horror of replacing injectors on a 1vd v8. You will understand.