NewHilux.net

apSlain wrote:Hey all, quick one regarding the HPD Catch Can (Type 1).

Could not get an answer from HPD for this but a supplier was very helpful. Routing either way is fine with the HPD Catch Cans. However, the optimal set-up is top-to-turbo, side-to-rocker cover. This will minimise the chances of the oil entering the intake as it has to travel an extra inch but the difference wouldn't be measureable.

Hey guys. About to order all the bits and pieces I need to fit the Provent 200 catch can. After doing a bit of research i have came to conclusion that its a most commonly used one and it should do a lot to keep my EGR and inlet manifold clean. I cleaned the EGR but the manifold is still a rife mess. I was a bit too scared to unbolt all the fuel lines with out a proper spanner so didn't do that yet. Will soon though but want to fit the catch can to avoid this mess again. It was bloody nasty in there but it seems to run a fair bit better with just the EGR cleaned up.
Anyway fitting the catch can is simple enough. What I need to ask is about the drainage. I searched a bit but didn't find any specific details. Is it possible to tap the drainage into the turbo oil return line? I dont like the idea of constantly emptying the can and topping up the oil. Will there be any issues doing this? Was simply thinking of fitting a 3 way barbed connector on the turbo drain pipe and t in the drainage hose from the ca5ch can into it. Will this cause issues?

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Hi Darko.
I have a provent 200. It does a very good job at not chewing thru the oil as it has a pressure valve.
Only drain every 10,000km and get about 15-20cm from a 10mm drain hose - very low maintenance

X2 on what DB said. There really is no need to re-use the minimal amount of oil that accumulates in the can. I drain mine every 10k too and wouldn't get 50ml out of it.

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Well this sucks. Fix one problem, find another. The egr valve and the inlet manifold was just filthy. No big deal. Took the manifold off and used about 5 cans of carby cleaner. It was shiny inside by the time I was done scrubbing. EGR too. Put it all together, installed the Provent and car ran like a champ. At least I thought so. Once I took a look inside the catch can while the engine was runing I saw a HUGE amount of smoke blowing out of it. I then opened the oil cap on the rocker covere and...........well what comes to mind is an old scholl steam train. You can hear compression/combustion cycles very loudly and it blows silly amounts of mist/smoke. Thing is engine runs very good. Much, much better than it did befre the clean up. Big difference on power but definitely seems as though I have the dreaded injector seat issue. The catch can has aready had a fair coating of oil in there in just a tad over 100km. Not going to drive it until I have the injector seats/seals replaced but I can't do that for about 2 months as I am away for work. Damn. Such a shame. Car felt so much better after the manifold clean out. It even sounded quiter at idle. Not looking forward to removing thise injector lines again.

Check ya oil pick up to man! If ya seats are leaking as bad as you think, ya pick up mite be blo king up too.

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Has anybody successfully fit a provent 200 to a 2017 hilux (2.4D or 2.8D)? I purchased one from western filters a while back but returned it as it didn't fit due to a redesign of the crankcase vent area. They said they'd need to do some R&D, but no idea how long this will take as I'm in Brisbane and can't use my car to test fit. I also contacted Berrima Diesel, but they said they buy their kits off Western Filters, so it'd be the same deal. My car is a Workmate 4x4, March 2017 build.

Alternatively, can anybody tell me what the metal pipe with the return is? AFAIK this pipe wasn't on the 2016 models

TOYZX wrote:Check ya oil pick up to man! If ya seats are leaking as bad as you think, ya pick up mite be blo king up too.

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Yeah man, 100% right. I will probably take the sump off and clean it up in there as much as possible. Is it easy to take the sump off on this model? I still haven't had a proper look down there with the bash trays off.

Not a simple task, no.

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Good torch and/ or a camera/inspection thing will help to check the strainer without the BIG job of removing the sump.

BTW I can't imagine a 2017 model would have sump strainer bunged up this early!

OK. If its an involved task I am not scared to do it. I will give it a go providing I don't need any special tools. Do you have to lift the engine off the mounts to be able to remove the sump? If not I am happy to give it a go.

Pretty sure its engine up and steering rack out.

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FreeLux wrote:

TOYZX wrote:Check ya oil pick up to man! If ya seats are leaking as bad as you think, ya pick up mite be blo king up too.

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Yeah man, 100% right. I will probably take the sump off and clean it up in there as much as possible. Is it easy to take the sump off on this model? I still haven't had a proper look down there with the bash trays off.

You can try kerosene and an air blaster, as described by boxhead and DeadlyBeast here. Images aren't working though.

Anyone got a copy of Roo's original write up with the images still working? I want to do this catch can install but all I see is photobucket images in place of all the photos.

jabba-sydney wrote:Anyone got a copy of Roo's original write up with the images still working? I want to do this catch can install but all I see is photobucket images in place of all the photos.

I was just looking at that post. It is on page 22 of this thread.

I have an open question to everyone about fitting a provent150 to a 2012 lux. I have it from Western Filters and have the complete kit ready to install. Now I am wondering to do it the way that Roo did it by not removing the metal pipe and just doing it he was done.

Any one else done it the way roo has and are there any long term problems. It just seems too good a way of doing it, surely it is better to use the metal pipe and avoid running rubber pipe in and around the exhaust manafold.

Thanks in advance.

Roo’s version is fine, assuming you feel like all the work over and above the Western Filters kit (eg drilling holes and nutserting). One bloke I knew on here tried roo’s method and screwed it up, got the one hole in the wrong place and then installed the nutsert wrong and so on and on and oh how he wished he’d not done it like that. Oh well.

I made my own bracket excatly the same as the kit one and that worked well.

I insultated my hoses with reflective heat shield and inspect them every service, no problems to report. Have done a lot of very hot outback towing kms and the hoses are fine.

Both methods work equally well. I’ve not come across a cooked hose with the Provents, though I’m sure someone will have managed it...

Thanks for the reply hartster. What i like most about the setup that Roo has done is the simplicity of connecting the hoses without removing the metal hose. So by using the metal hose as part of the installation doesn't create a back pressure issues considering that it is a smaller diameter hose?. Just seems like a really tidy way of keeping the hoses short and neat.

Thanks for the feedback.

Cheers.