Provent 200 pvc seperator...

[GeeBung]

Has to be the way roo has it mate. There is a relief valve in the unit which may restrict flow if plumbed the wrong way. Restricting a pcv can lead to all sorts of problems including pushing out oil seals.

[James84]

Righto, thanks Geebung.
I just replumbed it up same as what Roo has, even using the factory steel pipe. Much neater and better looking.

[TOYZX]

Great write up Roo! Im waiting on my provent to come in the mail. Question tho, why the heat shrink on the hoses at the catch can and not just clamps? Cheers.

[James84]

The hoses roo used are 5/8" hose, and the outlets on the Provent are 5/8".
What I did was get 3/4" hose ( might have been 20mm can't remember) and slid it over the Provent outlets, then slid the hoses from the engine inside the bigger hose, and clamped them.

[TOYZX]

Another question, what is so special about the type of hose to use? Surely fuel and oil safe hose would be fine?

[Locknut]

Awesome write up Roo. That type of detailed information is what makes this forum so good. It also allows guys like me with very little knowledge to have the confidence to work on my car knowing I won't stuff it up! You make it look very easy I'll be ordering mine very soon

[bradles87]

Another question, what is so special about the type of hose to use? Surely fuel and oil safe hose would be fine?

Yeah I hope so because that's what I went for. Emissions hose is hard to find

[Talktheroo]

Great write up Roo! Im waiting on my provent to come in the mail. Question tho, why the heat shrink on the hoses at the catch can and not just clamps? Cheers.

It's just low pressure and you don't need all of that. Just keep it simple, and it looks good, like factory.
Hell, you don't even really need the heat shrink, but it just finishes off the job and makes sure that hose will not come out.
Many years ago, it was a guy on Prado Point that showed me the way, and I thought it was a good idea with little fuss.
Always learning and then passing it on. Just how life should be, too.
15.9mm is a big enough hole size for a small diesel engine, as well.
When you feel the pressure of the crankcase gases, you will have a bit of a laugh, as the pressure is so low.
The Roo.

[TOYZX]

As usual, Roo, u da man!

[TOYZX]

There it is, thanks for the write up Roo! I see now why you use heat shrink, cos the 5/8 hose actually goes inside the provent fittings. Like I said you da man! Cheers!

[Talktheroo]

The case for a catch can.











This is oil residue that has come back with the crankcase gases. This is on the outside of the intercooler, so you can only imagine what the oil is like on the inside of the intercooler and the turbo.
The oil acts as a insulator stopping the intercooler from cooling down the air coming up from the turbo, which has come from the air housing.
There is no point having an intercooler installed when this is happening.
The Roo.

[highoctane]

Wouldnt you need the cooler to be repaired as its obviously leaking?

[lyndon1706]

Is there a way or a procedure to clean the intercooler insides Roo? I have recently cleaned the EGR and intake manifold and now have a Provent to install when I get a spare hour or two, so just want to take care of all housekeeping while I'm tidying up that whole system.

[Talktheroo]

If it's coated badly, you will have take it to a radiator place and they will solvent tip it and pressure test it for leaks.
If it's just lightly coated, you can use a brake cleaner in there, but not to much. Something like the brake cleaner that doesn't leave a residue in the inners of the intercooler.
We don't want a fire.
Can be a couple of things that are the cause. No catch can and a build up of oil coming back with the crankcase gases.
The dreaded blow by where an injector seat has let go.
A turbo problem.
This intercooler above would be going to a radiator place for cleaning and checking.
Hope this helps, the Roo.

[MR RUM]

A massive thanks to The Roo for his detailed instructions. They made the job easy enough for anyone to follow, even me.
I made a couple of minor additions though, and thought I'd share.
I apologise now if these images come through a rediculous size. They seem alright on my phone, but if they're not, I'll fix them up next time I log on with my desktop.

Reading posts since The Roo's, I got the feeling some people misunderstood the method for attaching the hoses to the Provent with heatshrink. My understanding (and ultimately how I did it) was that the hoses go inside the barbed inlet and outlet, like this..

..and then shrink wrap over the whole connection to help hold it in (please correct me if I'm wrong).

During my first test fitting of the unit after installing the hoses, I managed to pull the outlet hose out. This may be because I didn't let the heatshrink cool (I was getting excited and couldn't wait to get it in..... ), so between repairing and reinstalling, I wrapped a cable tie around both pipes just behind the barbs for extra peace of mind. You should be able to see what I mean here..

..in that image you can also see how I tackled the drain hose. After reading that kinked hoses could cause problems, I opted for a 90° elbow along the hose, leading to a tap that I hope to be able to hold a cup or similar under for draining. I fixed the loose end of the drain hose with a cable tie through two of the existing holes in the inner guard.

Perhaps this was mentioned somewhere that I didn't read thoroughly, but I didn't notice any mention of what was done to secure the wiring after removing the harness connector.
I solved this by trimming the plastic elbow, and adding a bracket that is held in place by the Rear mounting bolt of the Provent 200..




It turns out the bolts I bought to attach the Provent's bracket weren't quite long enough to get the job done, and it also turns out the only ones I had that would, required the use of my misplaced hex key set.
I did however know where my hex key bits for the drill were, but then there wasn't enough space in the engine bay to get the cordless drill in.
I had to ask myself. What would MacGyver do?

..if this isn't what MacGyver would've done, he should've. It worked better than the real thing.

Anyway, I'm extremely happy with how it all turned out, and I hope someone out there finds some of this useful.

Cheers.

[Talktheroo]

No need to clamp the elbow, and no need to cut the elbow shorter. This is just for future reference.
I like the HPD brand, as there are no noises and they are easier to clean.
Easier to fit, as well. They come with the fitting brackets, but they are more expensive.
The Roo.

[MR RUM]

I like the HPD brand, as there are no noises...

I wish I had of known about the noise with the Provent.
Until I worked out it was the valve, I spent a bit of time worrying that I'd Forgotten to tighten something.

[samuelvr]

i ran a hpd billet alluminum one. took under 5 mins for complete installed. all brackets and nuts and bolts hoses came with purchase. simplest thing ive done so far. id upload pics but im simple and got no idea how.

[qldminer]

posting as a reminder for when i install mine

awesome install write up

[qldminer]

just a thankyou! to HPD in SA, i purchased the catch can on the weekend, they posted it yesterday and it arrived today.

it came from South Australia to Middlemount (ie; central QLD) in 1 day. very impressed, free postage also.