KUN26 engine light coming on

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Re: KUN26 engine light coming on

Postby Username_here on Mon, 18 Oct 2021 5:22 +0000

Cheers guys, got my oil today so should start draining sometime this week. Stupid question but I see the SR5's seem to have the 5 speed gearbox while my SR is 4 ) 3 and D for 4th, 4 and D for SR5) is this is why the model has the 5 in title? I've never really thought about it before, I was wondering what the difference between transmission fluids might be
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Re: KUN26 engine light coming on

Postby martynvella on Tue, 19 Oct 2021 4:30 +0000

Only the very late diesel SR5s had a 5 speed, think the petrols had the 5 speed for a while longer. My 2012/13 SR5 is a 4 speed.
The 5 speed takes a WS (world standard) fluid.
No idea what the difference is as I am a sparky not a mechanic.
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Re: KUN26 engine light coming on

Postby Gipsy on Tue, 19 Oct 2021 5:15 +0000

My 2013 sr5 has 4 speed and the oils are different mainly due to additives. Seal materials bearings and friction pads may be different between 4 speed and 5. Seals is why my Benz crapped itself... That's why I told the mechanic to use the Benz fluid but he 'knew better' much to my expense. First the bands went and all the crap from them killed the rest. Lesson learned :shock:
After reading up on t4 vs ws the ws is apparently different viscosity (thinner) compared to t4 and has different additives as I thought. From what I read, ws fluid is thinner to gain benefits of lower fuel consumption but I would argue it would be minimal. The older t4 was not fully synthetic but ws is. If you're looking at the penrite for example, the FS is equivalent to t4 but fully synthetic and the ws has different additives. The ws is also more prone to absorbing moisture so don't store it and open a new tin to top up. That's probably why they did away with the filler tube so you can't contaminate the fluid.
Upshot is, don't use WS in the 4 speed!

Edit: there is also some talk by transmission specialists that WS ATF gets very dark much earlier than t4 which may explain the 'dirty' fluid in those using WS.
Last edited by Gipsy on Tue, 19 Oct 2021 8:30 +0000, edited 2 times in total.
Cheers Gipsy :D although I'm sure somebody will challenge that :lol: even Einstein wasn't certain of his theories.
My 2013 auto D4D DC SR5, prefilter, 3" exhaust and Chip with egt probe, stock SR5 rims with Toyo Open Country AT2 265/65R/17's
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Re: KUN26 engine light coming on

Postby Gipsy on Tue, 19 Oct 2021 5:54 +0000

Thought I'd just put this info in for what it's worth:
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#10
Hi folks, I had to join this discussion because I have some experience in the lubricants world (having working in R&D and sales for a major lubricants manufacturer). I just want to clear up a few concerns raised here the best I can. Toyota's WS vs T-IV - Toyota does clearly indicate that THEIR own ATF-WS is NOT compatible with T-IV or Dexron ATF and they recommend only the WS be used in vehicles that call for it. It makes perfect sense that they are not compatible because the additive chemistry is different. This is the same reason you should never add "magic" additives to ATF's to convert one to meet another spec - leave the chemistry work to the reputable ATF manufacturers since they spend enormous amounts of money in engineering and testing of their products. - It is also true that the viscosity is very different, WS is a fair bit lighter viscosity. The Japanese are big into fuel efficiency and so the WS is designed with a lower viscosity which tends to result in a gain more fuel economy and it is also designing with a different additive cocktail to be a longer life fluid (similar benefits to GM's Dexron VI). - Why they have not backspec'd the WS for T-IV applications is interesting but I think this is simply to avoid potential confusion especially seeing as the 2 fluids are not compatible - it is easy to see the possibility of dealer filling/top up mistakes. So to use a "multi-vehicle" ATF (from a reputable company - ideally one that is known to make ATF's) with a slightly higher viscosity, the only real trade off will be fuel efficiency. Fuel Efficiency gains from lower viscosity ENGINE oils is proven with standardized tests but it which is much more difficult to quantify such savings between different viscosities of ATF's as there are so many other variables. If you make a switch to a different product and you experience undesirable "shifting" issues, then you might consider changing it back to the OEM product but I can assure you this is highly uunlikely if you use a reputable brand product. More of a concern is ensuring the old fluid is removed before adding a different one. Early, Petro-Canada's DuraDrive MV (Multi-Vehicle) product was mentioned and there were concerns of it working in both T-IV and WS applications. Believe me, a major ATF player like Petro-Canada would not put their name on a product unless it was fully tested. Petro-Canada is a major world supplier of many different ATF's - most notably Dexron VI (they co-developed the product with GM and provide factory fill throughout the world). Another thing to keep in mind, those oil company's that supply the big automotive OEM's have to be very careful when marketing a "multi-vehicle" product because they are also licensed to make specific OEM labelled products. It is possible that their "multi-vehicle" product meets other spec's but they cannot show it because they risk losing their licensing of "specific" products. The ATF world is becoming very complicated as new designs of transmissions are developed. It is even more complicated because classic universal oils such as the old Dexron III/Mercon have been replaced with OEM specific products. The OEM's make a lot of their money on parts and lubricants are treated as a part so it is in their interest to market and protect their own labeled products.
Cheers Gipsy :D although I'm sure somebody will challenge that :lol: even Einstein wasn't certain of his theories.
My 2013 auto D4D DC SR5, prefilter, 3" exhaust and Chip with egt probe, stock SR5 rims with Toyo Open Country AT2 265/65R/17's
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Re: KUN26 engine light coming on

Postby Username_here on Fri, 22 Oct 2021 1:22 +0000

Hey guys, just jumped under the vehicle to remove the pan drain bolt and I'm turning and turning, and turning.. and nothings happening.. from what I can tell someone might have stripped this before and put a bolt on the other side. No wonder I don't trust mechanics :( so looks like I'm going to have to remove the bash plate and entire pan. Anything to be wary of beforehand?

Just thinking now too that I really don't want to have to do this three or four times over consecutive days to get it all changed. Damn. I could possibly look for a second hand pan from the wreckers. And do these have a filter? I should probably do that too if I'm going in deep

Edit, they do sell a filter at Repco for $100, Toyota are over $200 for the pan and none in stock.

So all in all, think I'll have to pull the pan off, get fluid all over the damn place, re-bodge the loose bolt with some gasket glue(?) And just a one off refill. I guess it's better than nothing.

What a bastard! Think I'll wanna be real careful not to overfill.. would you say 3litre fill then just a little at a time and check? Would I have to drive the car to get an accurate reading?
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Re: KUN26 engine light coming on

Postby martynvella on Sat, 23 Oct 2021 2:46 +0000

When you have the pan off take it to an engineering shop and have a helicoil put in, be like a new thread.
The internal filter is not a filter it is just a screen, just take it out and rinse it about in enleaded petrol, might just need a new seal.
Be very wary of dust contamination while the pan is off, dont just leave it sitting in your driveway out in the weather.
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Re: KUN26 engine light coming on

Postby martynvella on Sat, 23 Oct 2021 2:50 +0000

Dont know where your located but there is a mobile chap in Brisbane called the thread doctor that specialises in stripped sump plugs, could be someone near you in a similar business.
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Re: KUN26 engine light coming on

Postby Username_here on Tue, 26 Oct 2021 11:29 +0000

Well my obd scanner just arrived. I'm getting P0713
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Re: KUN26 engine light coming on

Postby dave g on Tue, 26 Oct 2021 3:40 +0000

P0713 is for the transmission fluid level or faulty sensor
If you googly it will give you same ideas.
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Re: KUN26 engine light coming on

Postby Gipsy on Thu, 28 Oct 2021 9:09 +0000

I think overfilled transmission was mentioned earlier.

"fluid is actually quite a bit above the "hot" marks too which is weird"

WARNING... The best way to kill any Auto transmission is to overfill it as the fluid has nowhere to go when it expands through heat... Blown seals then dumps all the fluid over the road and it won't be long until something goes BANG!
That's why modern transmissions don't have filler tubes and do have an overfill plug on the case to let any excess ATF out when servicing.
Cheers Gipsy :D although I'm sure somebody will challenge that :lol: even Einstein wasn't certain of his theories.
My 2013 auto D4D DC SR5, prefilter, 3" exhaust and Chip with egt probe, stock SR5 rims with Toyo Open Country AT2 265/65R/17's
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Re: KUN26 engine light coming on

Postby Username_here on Fri, 05 Nov 2021 3:56 +0000

Thanks guys. I ended up taking it to a mechanic, and this is the one I remember as being a good one who's been in business probably 40 years now. He found a stripped bolt. They've threaded a new one in, topped up 4l and changed the screen, said the code is an overheating problem. I'm not certain he's right about it though. Said fluid was pretty bad. Will see if the new fluid helps and just go from there I guess. I'll check that level too

On a side note he reckons these engines go for 500,000kms no problem if serviced regularly.

Ps, really notice it's alot easier and smoother to change gears through the transmission lever.
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Re: KUN26 engine light coming on

Postby Username_here on Sat, 06 Nov 2021 5:58 +0000

Trip to the beach with the dog this morning confirms my mechanic sucks. Came on both ways to and from because I cleared the light at the beach, happened again 20kms towards home, stopped and cleared again, last 20kms stayed off so definitely not overheating, just totally weird it only ever happens without a trailer.

Just jumped under and think I've located the sensor (above pan and between cooler lines? Not sure, there's a lot of them on the trans) Connector has some pretty heavy grease around it and possibly a little inside, it's hard to see. Can I clean this with degreaser spray?
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Re: KUN26 engine light coming on

Postby martynvella on Sat, 06 Nov 2021 1:32 +0000

The one near the cooler lines is only a switch to bring up the warning light on the dash, it serves no other function.
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Re: KUN26 engine light coming on

Postby Rob_Wood on Mon, 08 Nov 2021 9:20 +0000

martynvella wrote:The one near the cooler lines is only a switch to bring up the warning light on the dash, it serves no other function.


Faulty switch or damaged cabling can intermittently cause the warning lights to activate.
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Re: KUN26 engine light coming on

Postby martynvella on Mon, 08 Nov 2021 10:47 +0000

It will Rob, but it will be just that, a warning light on the dash. It will not generate a fault code.
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Re: KUN26 engine light coming on

Postby Rob_Wood on Mon, 08 Nov 2021 10:57 +0000

martynvella wrote:It will Rob, but it will be just that, a warning light on the dash. It will not generate a fault code.


Point Marty'.
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Re: KUN26 engine light coming on

Postby Username_here on Tue, 09 Nov 2021 12:22 +0000

Thanks guys, all sorted now. Appreciate the help :)
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Re: KUN26 engine light coming on

Postby Rob_Wood on Tue, 09 Nov 2021 10:00 +0000

Username_here wrote:Thanks guys, all sorted now. Appreciate the help :)


Good to hear.
Would you mind letting us know what it was? ... Just in case someone else has an issue in the future?
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Re: KUN26 engine light coming on

Postby martynvella on Wed, 10 Nov 2021 4:47 +0000

Was it actually the check engine light or the A/T over temp light coming on?
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Re: KUN26 engine light coming on

Postby Rob_Wood on Wed, 10 Nov 2021 8:29 +0000

martynvella wrote:It will Rob, but it will be just that, a warning light on the dash. It will not generate a fault code.


I've been thinking about this and I'm happy to be wrong ... But, if the wiring from a sensor is what's damaged, wouldn't that send the signal back to the computer which would then provide a signal to the dash light AND generate a code?
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