Life after injector replacement?

[Cncrnd]

Hey guys, had a good read through the forums and found some really good info in regards to injectors and their replacement, and also that some peoples issues were fixed and some wernt directly after replacing them. However I didn't really find much info that goes beyond immediately after they were done, like people never back on to update their story.
So, how has everyone who has replaced their injectors found them in the long run? Did new injectors last longer/longer before rattling than the stock ones? I see that some people have had the well known cracked piston shortly after replacing injectors, is this fairly common aswell?
Basically I've got a '13 SR5 with about 80k on it, had cold rattles pretty much since the dawn of time but was assured they were well within spec and one of the quieter ones. But it's doing my head in now along with the looming cracked piston issue and has got me thinking of my options. Trade it in for something new, or replace injectors. I know the trade in seems abit extreme for a simple injector replacement, but, after reading about cracked pistons after injector replacement you can either just replace injectors and see how it goes, but if it does crack a piston you are then up for new injectors again plus new pistons, or replace motor......or, just go the whole hog from the get go and give the motor a complete freshen up with new injectors and pistons before anything gets the chance to go wrong, costly but saves it going bang when you'd rather it not, plus you may have ended up spending that much anyway. Plus you also have to factor in the cost of all the mods you will have to do again, atleast 15K worth spent
So yeah, let me know your stories.
Thanks

[martynvella]

Had mine done around 170 k just to be on the safe side before an extended off road trip. Otherr than much quieter cold starts and the disappearance of a slight irregular miss while idling not a lot of difference other than piece of mind. Havent had a problem even after 4k towing offroad and another 30k onroad. The fact that it made any difference told me they were probably over due.

[TOYZX]

I think this is a classic case of reading too much into it and listening too hard (sorry to say!)These motors are rattly, period! Some far worse than others. If the injectors are within spec stress less. If you need reassurance get them checked elsewhere and see if the results match. I stressed about mine for ages when I got it with 180k on the clock, now she has nearly 280k on her and sounds the same (rattly af!) If they need replacing, get them done by someone reputable, get dual filters on it and drive the thing. From what I've read most piston issues are caused by improper tunes with big loads. Stress less brother!

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

[Cncrnd]

It had crossed my mind that I’m overthinking this but then you read the horror stories and can’t help but worry lol. We do tow aswell which just adds to it haha

[martynvella]

For every horror story there are hundreds of happy stories you just dont hear about.

Injector correction values are the amount the ecm has to vary the fuel charge to achieve even cylender balance, this correction isnt always caused by injector wear, choked inlet, weak valve or compression problems can all cause it. Injector replacement is a very common misdiagnosis in older engines and when it doesnt help leads to more expense after ther are changed, not necessarily caused by the injector change.

[Cncrnd]

Will go talk to a mechanic today, its been happening on and off for most of the cars life but seems to be a constant for the last few thousand kms. Thanks for your help guys

[hylux]

Mine has done 180,000km. I had toyota do a cold start injector test done and everyrhing spot on i got the printout which has so much other info on the e ngine as well. It does rattle and always has sometimes louder than others.
Have you had this done to yours??
I also ask for oil pick up checked on every service.

[Cncrnd]

I had a cold start test ages ago, like probably had around 30k on it, which was when it started to really rattle. All came back clear so havent worried too much since then. Mine is the same as in sometimes it’s worse than others, lately though it’s just always pretty bad so thought I better look into it again. I change the oil every 5k between mechanic services and check the screen when I do that

[martynvella]

Fuel also makes a difference. Mine is bad if the mrs picks up cheap fuel neat where she works. She cant figure out how i know when she does it.

[Cncrnd]

Yeah only run bp ultimate. When I first got the car i didnt care what diesel I used (no bio though) but then found bp made a differece to how it ran

[martynvella]

I always used bp till i got a long range tank and costco come to town. Runs ok on it

[hiluxxury]

Stress less brother!

X2

After a couple of sets of injectors, the latest denso set I have installed are good but they still rattle. This is particularly noticeable in cold weather or with a chip.

[hiluxxury]

I also ask for oil pick up checked on every service.

X2 as well. Also read up on why this might be a problem.

[Gipsy]

Yeah only run bp ultimate. When I first got the car i didnt care what diesel I used (no bio though) but then found bp made a differece to how it ran

You never know if it's Bio diesel because they are not required to tell you below 10%. Use a fuel prefilter and fuel doctor to keep it all good.m As the old Castrol add says... Oils ain't oils and fuels ain't fuels but all the reputable brands must conform to Australia standards. Stress less mate because the horror story is the only one you hear about... The good ones don't worry and drive it as intended.

[bloke&tackle]

The injectors have nothing to do with pistons cracking. Pistons cracking is caused by poor design of the pistons, and it’s a lottery whether it happens to you or not. The only thing you can do to lessen the chances is don’t chip or tune it and don’t tow heavy loads, but it can still happen, more likely in a Prado which has the same engine tuned for more power.

With the rattle, it’s not the actual injector itself rattling, it’s the combustion process. The timing and duration and other factors change depending on RPM and throttle position etc. which is why the rattle comes and goes as you move your right foot. The light rattle you hear is annoying but it is OK.
The one you have to worry about is the real heavy metallic rattle on acceleration when the engine is cold. Generally goes away once the temp gauge gets to it’s normal positio. The noise is unmistakable, you almost expect people in the street to turn around and look. The noise goes away once hot, but fuel ecnomy is very bad, another indictator.

My 2007 had new injectors at about 180k, it was hammering badly when I bought it at those kms so I put new injectors in.
Now has 330,000 kms, no cracked pistons (yet) and still going great.

There are other issues with these engines, like the injector seats failing to seal and allowing combustion gases to enter the oil gallery just above the injector seat which eventually blocked the oil pick up screen in the sump and chernobyled the engine. Toyota had a campaign to fix this on all vehicles at no cost. Improved injector seats and stronger hold-down clamps.

[martynvella]

Cold driving is somethong i try not to do. Mine is a 2012 modei i got new and can count on one hand the amount of times its moved out of the garage before the temp gauge was at least past the cold mark.

[Cncrnd]

Yeah mine is the unmistakable knock, I always expect anyone I drive past to look around haha. Yeah I have read that the piston issue is seperate in that it’s a design fault once the euro 4(?) came in, but have also read that the injector issue can make a hot spot so to speak and weaken it aswell. Anyway I’ll get it looked at asap. Has started to use abit of fuel, and alot more than the fuel readout says. Read 10.4 using 11.5-11.8 per 100km. Disconnectes steinbauer last week to see if it made a difference, rattle is still there but not always as bad, says im usinf more fuel on readout but whether or not I am I wont know till I fill up. We do tow so without a chip or tune it’s going to be a pretty ordinary tow rig

[Gipsy]

The 'rattle' referred to is more likely to be the old EGR rattle and my 2013 has done it since new! Normally between 1700rpm to 2200rpm. Don't sweat it.

[Cncrnd]

You know I have never heard of the egr rattle. And yeah that rev range would be about right, will often stop when under load but then start when you come back down to a lighter throttle. I’ll just get them checked and see how I go

[Gipsy]

Ok so do a search on EGR rattle. Under load it goes away but is well known in 1kd engine. If that's it you don't have anything to worry about. It is a function of the EGR valve opening and closing, under load it closes and only opens when at low throttle opening.
Oh by the way, BP ultimate does have Bio but because it's below 10% they are not required to report it.