Donk wrote:Thanks for the replies so far. I guess the BCDC1225LV is the go then. I calked ARB today and they quoted me $2100 installed which I think is ridiculous. The kit on eBay is worth $450, $100 for wiring kit, $150 for an ARB tray, and probably allow $300ish for a battery plus maybe up to $100 Max for good battery terminals, connectors, solder, heat shrink etc. Have any of you guys installed the kit yourselves and us it all that difficult? $1000 for mark up plus fitting seems a but rich.
hartster wrote:Fellas, hang on a minute.
Read this from Redarc regarding alternator type and which model of bcdc you need - it specifically says not to use the LV for the D4D. The copyright is dated 2013 so its a recent document. I'd be phoning Redarc and checking what you've been told with them.
http://www.rpc.com.au/pdf/REDARC_isolators_incompatible_vehicles.pdf
I run a 2013 Hilux and monitor the alternator voltage on the Victron and have never seen it below 13.2V. It drives a bcdc1240 in the tray (220amp/hr AGMs) plus another 1240 in the trailer for the 120amp/hr there. Installed system myself, straightforward. Has delivered 3 yrs 80,000km hassle free power since in first the Prado then the Hilux. Love the Redarcs.
martynvella wrote:It is ok to use the LV, especially if solar is a future option, you just need a panel then and not fork out on a kit with a cheap regulator and then have to buy a decent regulator anyway.
hartster wrote:martynvella wrote:It is ok to use the LV, especially if solar is a future option, you just need a panel then and not fork out on a kit with a cheap regulator and then have to buy a decent regulator anyway.
Not trying to start an argument, but this doesn’t sound quite right, when bcdc MPPT solar controllers and low voltage capability are mutually exclusive? Both my non-LV 1240s are MPPT capable, and are used as such. What influence does the choice between LV and non-LV have on solar capability?
Earlier in the thread it was stated that you definitely need the LV model for the Hilux. You don't.
Geebung is right though, I said ‘specifically says not to use’ the LV, which is not what the document says. It specifies the non-LV but it doesn’t say you can’t use the LV. So I stand corrected, sorry for the bad wording, you can use the LV with the D4D. But you definitely don’t need to. If you change out your vehicle for a Nissan or Land Rover down the track and you’ve got an LV model you’re able to use your Redarc!
when I first was searching this I found that many had there alt's chiped to fix this problem
And that this is why they went the 25 over the 40
hartster wrote:Cool I love this forum.
Another comment made on the way through was:when I first was searching this I found that many had there alt's chiped to fix this problem
And that this is why they went the 25 over the 40
john253a - I thought chipping an alternator only dealt with the low voltage issue, but doesn't change current output? If that's the case then why would that affect the decision between a 1225 and a 1240? Just want to understand that properly.
mattwhite wrote:Only asking, not telling.
Doesn't the charger regulate output based on amps and voltage? I thought 25 amp would be fine for a single battery and small loads and a 40 for a small bank.
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