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Hi guys
Recently over the past few months my brakes have gotten more and more air in the lines, it is now at a point where my brake pedal is almost touching the floor before the brakes with engage, Scary, First i checked my brakes lines and found out that the 2 fronts have split, this was caused by when flexing the front end the brake lines were streeching which caused this, I have now just installed 2 inch extended braided brake lines, When i was bleeding them i had done everything by the book and how its supposed to be, I got all the air out, As soon as i finished bleeding them i jumped in the car and took it for a drive but the brakes where still going straight to the floor,... I have now bled them 3 times and there is absolutely no air in the lines at all and have replaced the fluid serveral times now...

Why are my brakes still almost on the floor ?

Correct way is start from rear driver side (furthest from master)
Then passenger rear. Passenger front. Then Driver front.

May need to bleed clutch as well.

If that fails you have a leak somewhere.

Check rear drum brake adjustment for pedal feel and if its lifted make sure the lspv is adjusted

There's a bleeder on the proportioning valve. Did you bleed there?

If you didn't remove a line from the rear brakes or pump all the fluid out of the rear brakes when you replaced the fluid there is no need to to bleed the rear brakes. The front and rear brakes are separate circuits. They are have a separate section in the master cylinder and a separate section inside the reservoir. All vehicles are like this, so that if a brake line blows on either front or rear and you loose fluid in that circuit, you still have half the brakes working and can pull the vehicle up. Same goes for the clutch.

If you only had the front brakes off and there are no external leaks, I would say that you haven't bled the brakes correctly. When you bleed the brakes do NOT let the brake pedal go all the way floor. This is where any crap in the master cylinder will sit and can damage the cup. Just put a bit of 2" thick timber under the pedal. Also when you crack the bleeder on the calliper, don't just leave it open until the pedal hits the floor. Only crack it for a split second. Offon as quick as you can say it, that's how quick you should do it. This just lets a small release of the pressure out, but is more effective at pushing the air through the line. (Yes I know many people will disagree with this and say I've always cracked it off for longer blah blah, but I have bled hundreds of sets of brakes and it's the most effective way to bleed stubborn brake systems)

If you go though all of this and still find that you aren't getting good pressure in the brakes, or that the brake pedal continues to sink to the floor, then your master cylinder is bypassing internally and needs to be replaced.

Thanks for your help guys its all fixed now $170 bucks later.... Turned out the brake shoes on the back where down to the metal and the adjustment was right out...

andy666 wrote:If you didn't remove a line from the rear brakes or pump all the fluid out of the rear brakes when you replaced the fluid there is no need to to bleed the rear brakes. The front and rear brakes are separate circuits. They are have a separate section in the master cylinder and a separate section inside the reservoir. All vehicles are like this, so that if a brake line blows on either front or rear and you loose fluid in that circuit, you still have half the brakes working and can pull the vehicle up. Same goes for the clutch.

If you only had the front brakes off and there are no external leaks, I would say that you haven't bled the brakes correctly. When you bleed the brakes do NOT let the brake pedal go all the way floor. This is where any crap in the master cylinder will sit and can damage the cup. Just put a bit of 2" thick timber under the pedal. Also when you crack the bleeder on the calliper, don't just leave it open until the pedal hits the floor. Only crack it for a split second. Offon as quick as you can say it, that's how quick you should do it. This just lets a small release of the pressure out, but is more effective at pushing the air through the line. (Yes I know many people will disagree with this and say I've always cracked it off for longer blah blah, but I have bled hundreds of sets of brakes and it's the most effective way to bleed stubborn brake systems)

If you go though all of this and still find that you aren't getting good pressure in the brakes, or that the brake pedal continues to sink to the floor, then your master cylinder is bypassing internally and needs to be replaced.

Hi there sorry to bring old one up.
I've change master and bleed but still pedal drops/fades away
Any help plz????

I thought this was the standard feel...

Nah bit worse lol still no good! Grrrr might leave it for tomoz now

Hey dazza96 what age and km travelled had your vehicle done. Just want to know if my rear shoes r due soon?

only one way to know for sure, it isn't a km based thing.

The reason I stopped getting dealer services is that I was told the front pads would need changing at the next service, car had done 80K, what that dealer obviously didn't bother to look up is that I had the disks and pads done at 30k because of the squeal thing. I had a look and there is still 6 mm of pad left.

I waited for that service to be done in a room that overlooked the workshop and it took 20 minutes and the wheels didn't get removed let alone balanced and rotated.