Contaminated Diesel

[Roofer190]

Hi all. Great forum.

Hoping someone can please help with some advice or suggestions.

My Mrs. went to fill my 2005 SR5 3Lt. Turbo Diesel yesterday and accidentally put approximately a litre of (ADBLUE)
into the tank before realising, followed by approximately 65Lts of Diesel.
On the 40Km trip home from town, she told me on arrival what she’d done and it was running a little rough,
actually stalling once but restarted.
I firstly drained the tank by disconnecting the outlet and flowback hoses from the tank and pressurising the flowback hose until nothing was coming out of the outlet hose.
Removed fuel filter and housing. Full off crap naturally.
I have a replacement fuel filter but was also thinking of installing a extra filter as well to collect any crap prior.
After googling, I seen some suggesting to wash tank out with warm water which I presume would involve removing the tank,
which I’m trying to avoid.
I would take to a mechanic, but I’m on a Disability with a stuffed back and a tight budget.
I consider myself quite knowledgeable when it comes to mechanics.

Any help, advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

PS: I also need my Hilux back on the road ASAP as I’m also a full time carer for my Dad who has Parkinson’s.
Bloody hell. Lol.

Cheers

[Gipsy]

Geez mate you are having a bad run!
I wouldn't suggest washing the tank out, you've done all the work needed to resolve the fuel issues. I would suggest getting a good prefuel filter and fitting it before the OEM filter. When you fill the tank again, put some fuel doctor in with the shock treatment amount shown on the bottle.
This should resolve any issues and hopefully the injectors will be ok to get you back on the road again.

[Roofer190]

Thanks heaps for your reply Gypsy. You’re not wrong. Lol.
I was hoping for a answer like yours.
I was just looking up pre filter kits and because off my budget was looking at these.

DIRECTIONPLUS
DIESEL FUEL FINAL FILTER KIT UNIVERSAL 5 MICRON. $169

P903316 Donaldson 4WD KIT - HIGH EFFICIENCY DIESEL FUEL FILTER KIT With 2 filters. $99

Do you think the Donaldson would do the job?
At least after a run I could swap filters over.

Cheers

[Gipsy]

5 micron isn't too fine, 10 is better, OEM is around 5 micron, that's why the extra filter should be first in line.
I would go for the Donaldson. That's a good price. The 3 micron isn't too fine but the flow rate is right for the Hilux. It means the OEM filter will be clean for longer. It does depend on how the 3 micron is measured but should be ok. Different folks have different views as to micron size.

[hiluxxury]

I'd just put it back together with a new genuine filter and then replace the filter after a tank or two.

The stock filter will do more than a prefilter in this situation, so save those $$$ in case your injectors are stuffed.

[Gipsy]

There is a double service kit from online auto parts which gives you 2 new fuel and oil filters and an air filter and cabin filter for under $100

[Roofer190]

Thanks heaps Guys.
Just hoping the Injectors aren’t stuffed.
Let ya’s know how I get on once I get the parts.

Cheers

[Gipsy]

I never did ask but how did your wife come to put AdBlue into your Hilux?

[Roofer190]

I’m not sure Gipsy?
I thought there was some magnetism setup which stops you from accidentally adding to your tank.
She did say it was barely trickling in and had to keep starting it.
She’ll be sleeping with the dog tonight if I don’t get her running.
As I have a new stock fuel filter on hand and problems getting access to much else with the restrictions here in Victoria, I’m thinking I’ll give that a go and order the Twin Filter pack as well.
Should know in a couple of hours. Fingers and toes crossed.

[Gipsy]

If you fit the pre filter first it will protect the OEM filter and it will not need to be changed, the pre filter will show any water in the glass bowl.

[dave g]

Hi roofer190 what did the dog do wrong

[hiluxxury]

If you fit the pre filter first it will protect the OEM filter and it will not need to be changed, the pre filter will show any water in the glass bowl.

Hey Gipsy, I have 10micron prefilter in my lux and I have never seen water in the bowl but the stock filter has had water in it. To add to that, I've also had the filter full warning light come on due to a bad batch of fuel.

My thoughts on the prefilter are basically that is does add some filtration (to 10 microns) but most of the contaminants are finer and collected by the stock filter. Regarding the water- the prefilter is mounted on a $$$ mount like everyone else's but it vibrates more than one of those toys so the water separation never occurs. In contrast, the stock filter doesn't move.

So all that said, would I do the prefilter again. Yes but on a mount that doesn't vibrate. In my view, its a mod that you do if you have $$$ to burn. Otherwise, I'd just keep a couple of spare stock filters in the back of the lux for longer trips.

[Gipsy]

Ok hiluxury I hear you but I have a similar tale... My racor 10micron filtered water so I could see it in the bowl, and the OEM filter was clear. It does depend on the filter medium but racor filters are treated with water repellent and some others are not. The repellent helps the water to make its way to the bowl however some filters do allow water through. The OEM is much more secure but all diesel fuel is vulnerable to contamination, not only water. The OP is talking of fitting a 3 micron so that will be more secure, but it is a belt and braces approach so there's a safety margin better than just the OEM filter. Also your 'filter full' experience is probably because the contamination was sub 10 micron, allowing it to make it to the OEM filter. The dead bodies from Cladosporium resinae are very small and probably is what blocked your OEM filter. Anything less than around 3 micron will probably get through the injectors.
Edit: I manufactured my own bracket and there's no vibration there

[Roofer190]

Hey Gypsy. Good and Bad news.
After cleaning tank, lines and filter housing as best I could, installed new OEM Filter and o-rings.
Added 180ml off Fuel Doctor nd 30lts off Fresh Diesel into the tank. (Hopefully didn’t overdo the Fuel Doctor), , pressurised the tank to flush some clean fuel through the line before connecting to filter.
Primed and no go.
Tried and tried until virtually new battery went flat. It would occasionally have a small fire like it was trying to start. I was always having to re pressurise the filter over and over. Connected battery charger then walked away swearing, cursing and stressed. Grabbed a stubbie out of the fridge and contemplating what to do now, while wiping the tears away from my eyes.
Recharged battery this morning, give it a quick go to no avail.
Just to make matters worse, Mrs had no choice but needed to get to her daughters today for a few days.
I’m approximately 10kms from town. 1/2 hour ago I said to her, we’ll try giving it a tow up the road and back before you go. Going along trying in 2nd and 3rd, 40-50 ks., nothing. Until I said slow down and turn around and head home, I heard a rough idle It did start. Just couldn’t hear it over the high engine RPMs and Tyre noise. Quickly got it back home before it stopped.
At least it’s running. She’s gone to daughter’s and I’m not game to turn it off.
As I said to you in a earlier post, I’m no mechanic, but am quite handy mechanically.
Use to race old HQ,s ect at speedway and always rebuilding engines and other repairs.
To me, it sounds like it’s running on 3.
You’re or anyone else’s thoughts or opinions would be really appreciated.
I’m leaning towards a blocked injector?
Surely the fuel pump would be ok or it wouldn’t run at all?
I’m leaving it running in the hope that the Doctor might help me out.
Been 3/4 of hour now and Doctors obviously not doing house calls.
Been getting revs up occasionally and holding to see if it helps.
What’s a safe RPM I can hold for and for how long?
If it’s going to help at all.
Enough rambling on. Just thought be better if everyone got the whole story.
Thanks in advance guys and gals.

[Gipsy]

Are you sure the filter is sealed? If you have a leak the system will not get sufficient fuel. When you pumped the filter pump up to prime did it stay primed? If there's the slightest leak in the filter it won't stay primed, pump the primer and see if it's firm, it should stay firm. It's possible that one injector is blocked but before you worry too much, try the primer trick.
Try taking the outlet hose off the filter and pump the primer to see if fuel comes out.
You may have put too much fuel doctor in, top up with some fresh diesel.

[Roofer190]

Yeah. I was wondering about having a slight leak. It’s still idling now, but I’m able to also pressurise the Fuel filter a few times. It didn’t seem right to me. Once it’s pressurised, you shouldn’t be able too compress button any further? I was thinking that’s why I was able to tow start it. Pump sucking just enough through.
So a small drop in pressure would make it run rough? Also, before putting everything back together, I removed the cap from the fuel filter holder, where fuel inlet hose goes in to clean. Really tight to get off. I wasn’t 100% sure I got it back together correctly. There’s a O-ring, little white plastic washer thing and a spring. After cleaning, I put spring in first, seemed good cause there was little grooves for it to seat in. Then the washer, couldn’t remember which way, but apart from a small indent in the middle on one side, couldn’t see it making any difference. The spring seems to just allow little pressure on the washer. Thought good. Then the O-ring in.
But for the life off me, I was having a hell of a time trying to push the cap back on!!
Removed cap. Moved O-Ring into top off cap which seemed to seat. Cap pushed straight on.
Just looking now though, I can just slightly wiggle that inlet cap. I thought off that when it wouldn’t keep holding pressure. Should that O-ring go in first and it just takes a heap off force to get the cap back on?
Is there a trick to it? I just don’t want to stuff something up as I have no way off getting parts.
Please tell me that the slightest movement in that cap would cause a air leak and I’ve put it back together wrong, and it would make the engine sound like it’s running on 3 cylinders.
You would make my day!! Lol

[Gipsy]

Yes the cap should be tight. O ring in the groove, it should be a tight fit. It sounds like you have a leak. The primer should go solid. XXX Make sure it's not cross threaded. No need to overtighten the screw ring but if the cap moves the O ring isn't right. Hopefully this is your problem. If there's a leak the system will suck in air and run rough. The common rail pressure is around 28,000psi so the slightest leak will cause problems. Top up the fuel though, too much doctor will make it run rough also.

[Roofer190]

The O rings in fuel pump assembly all good and that screw cap all good. I was referring to the little cap that the inlet hose clamps onto. So do you think I put that back together correctly? Should there be any movement at al if you give it a wiggle or is it ok because the small o ring in there will prevent los of pressure? Not sure if I’m imagining things, it’s still idling and when I give it a rev before, it does sound slightly better. Might go for a run into town soon and top up with diesel whist it’s running. I’ll soon know how it’s running going for a drive. Is it a simple test for a mechanic to test the fuel pressure?

Cheers

[Gipsy]

No the little cap should not wiggle. It's not easy to check fuel pressure unless the mechanic has the software. The whole filter assembly runs on suction from the supply pump on the engine so any leak is a problem. The only pump is the supply pump and the filter is a closed system which cannot have any leaks.
Tech stream is the software and you can buy it online, but you need it now!

viewtopic.php?t=16394

Normally there's no reason to disassemble the little cap, this may be where your problem lies.

[Gipsy]

Black smoke isn't a good sign, you may have an injector problem. Hope not but it shouldn't be running rich.