NewHilux.net

hi im new to this site and new to doing up 4wds.
i have a hilux ln106 and want a 3-4'' lift kit and can get a new Superior Engineering 4'' lift kit cheap and woundering if any1 has tried these kits before, do they get good flex?
plus i would like to go 33'' tyres n would like to know what work well
thanks for any help

Moved to correct forum.

33" with work on 3" lift
but you will not get good flex
you will bottom out the tyres before you hit bum stops,
i have a duel cab and my rear hit my cab with 2" to go before bum stops
and i need a front diff fwd kit to stop it on the front

I'm running 33"
efs 3" lift and 2" extended shackles
3deg shims

i flog out the 2 rear uni's every 5k
front uni ever 10k
and centre bearing every 7k and thats with no off road use, its even quicker once I am
and thats just the rear shaft

I'm running a 2" spacer on the front shaft and under some flexes I'm on the max outer limit for the front shaft and it pulls out sometimes

I'm currently looking into doing a 1 piece rear shaft and longer front

depending on what you want to active you may be better with a 2-3" lift and 1-2" body lift


another thing to consider when you lift and fit 33" is you will have next to brakes
you'll need to fit an 80series master and booster,
idd do it when you change the brake lines out with the lift kit, so out only need to bleed it once

to do the brake upgrade
you'll need a non abs 4 bolt booster and factory 80 series hose (from booster) and 1 joiner
and an 80 series master
fit the booster in upside down leave your factory vac line on and connect the 80 series line to it with a joiner
bolt on the new master and bend one of the brake lines buy hand very carefully
both parts should set you back under $300 (second hand booster and new master)

could u space the centre bearing down on the tail shaft maybe 1.5'' to fix the uni joint problem u r having? and why do i need to upgrade the booster to run 33''??
i also have a 2'' body lift already done

so if i only run a 3'' lift will it fix some of the uni problems ur having?

Anything above 2" you will have uni issues
Without a 1 piece tail shaft
And what you also need to be careful of is using extended shackles
They are not legal in most states,
using a 2" lift with 2" extended shackles is 4" lift
But are you shockers for 4" lift or 2" lift
And if they say 4" ask them how (3" total lift is the biggest shock that I know is avaible to fit factory locations)
Because 4" total lift will require the rear shockes relocated from straight up/down to 30/45deg going into the centre of the car
And a whole new front set up raising the suspension mount up higher

Because 4" of lift mean you need a shock that will go 4" longer but also go to its full numb stop and to achive 4" more you will need to raise the top mount by close to 2" higher

As for relocating the centre bearing you will through out the angles required to operate correctly

As for running 33" tyres
You are going 4" above std (factory 29")
The rolling circumference will go from 91" to 103"
12" or 30.5cm larger
You will have to do 90kph on fwy as 100 on dial will be about 113kph

As far as breaking goes with the bigger tyres on it, it will brake like you have 1tonn in the back all the time
So steeping up from a 7/8" bore master to a 17/16" make the master 1.5X bigger
So that will allow you maintain close to the same braking you have now with 29's on it
And going to a twin diaphragm booster will help you push it without pulling the starting the off everytime you hit the peddle

On a side note to my knoladge a 2" above std is all that is legal with an engineeres report
And going from a 29" tyre to 31" is 2" bigger but only 1" of lift but is counted as 2"
So without a report no suspension of body lift is legal,
So just be sure you can still maintain insurance with your modifications

its a complete 4'' lift kit but its using extended shackles to make up the last inch so wasnt gonna fit them and only run it as 3'' lift.

so 1 peace tail shaft is the way to go by sounds of things then

is there any other brake upgrades worth doing as well as booster?

thanks for the help so far John

Just get a 80series non abs booster from the wreckers
And new master
My booster was $80 from a place in Kilsyth
And new master from burson for under $220

That's all you need as far making it safe to drive

When you lift it make sure you get extended brake hoses
If they the option get the steel bradded one and not the rubber like the std ones (the longer they are the more the flex and expand losing efficiency)

With a 2" body lift
You'll get away with a good 3" lift and only bottom out the 33" on max flex

Another option you may be intersted in is a 80 series diff swap out
And a 4 link with coil springs
As that will give you a wider track and assist you with being taller

yeah thanks again. wont have any problem with flex in the rear as im single cab and gonna make my own custom tray,already made my xrox front bar, will also make rock sliders.
the kit has braided brake lines with it, should have everything i need to do the lift

whats the power like with the 33'' tyres? mine is a non turbo 3l

so looks like my to buy list atm is
*1 peace tail shaft
*longer front tail shaft
*booster and master cylinder
*front diff fwd kit
*was thinking offset rims to make the track wider

this is what the kit comes with
2 X Front comfort ride springs
2 X Rear comfort ride springs
2 X Front extended shackles
2 X Rear extended shackles
2 X Front Fixed pins
2 X Rear fixed pins
2 X AmadaXtreme Adventure Front Shocks
2 X AmadaXtreme Adventure Rear Shocks
1 X Front steering damper
1 X Drop drag link
24 X Polyurethane bushes
8x U-bolts
2 x Front extended brake lines
1 x Rear extended brake lines
2 x Front 3 degree caster wedges
1 x Adjustable torque bar
1 x Proportioning valve lift bracket.

You won't need new front shaft as most kits come with a 1.5" spacer
But a longer is better

The front relocate kit has pros and cons
Pro less lift required for 33 and 35" is possible with 4" lift
Cons alters the load on the leafs and voids warrant + has a chance to break them
With 33's unless your plane is a comp truck that's road driven I wouldn't fit one

So if you allow 900-1k ontop of lift you will have a safe and reliable car

When you do fit the lift the pro valve for the brakes on rear
Make it about 1" longer then the lift
Mine is 25x3 angle

ok thanks John

now i just need to wait 9 days till i get home from work to work some things out

what state you in

live in sa

I really need to do this brake upgrade! With all the extra power combined with the 33"s and the extra 800kg of weight, mine takes a lot of effort to slow down, and it's pretty scary tbh.
When u guys say an 80series upgrade, what do u mean? A booster and cylinder from a newer model hilux??
How do I check if mine has had the upgrade allready or not. And do the ln106 come with twin pot calipers??
Sorry for all the questions, but I'm noob to this, but not nooby enough to know I neeed BETTER BRAKES!

Go the the wreckers and get a brake booster
From an 80series landcruser
You mount it upside down so the only differance is the vac line is on the bottom not the top

And get a new master to suit an 80 series landcruser from an auto shop

Just tell them non abs and a 4 bolt mount

But you meet to make sure you have a 4 bolt mount and not a 3 bolt

so just confirming all of these mods uve been talking about r to suit 89-97 model hiluxs, as i have noticed u own the newer model duel cab.

and the booster n master upgrade only work if we have 4 bolt mount model? if so is there a upgrade for the 3 bolt? not sure what mine is till i get home..

Is there a bolt on caliper and rotor upgrade that we could do aswell???