Yep looks like a combination of luck of the draw and slow gearchange.
After scratching my head all night I came up with this: If you disagree please feel free to fill your boots and wade in with your answers.
Thesis: the auto is virtually the same as the manual system, with the one major difference; when you disengage the clutch in a manual, you disconnect the transmission from the flywheel. In an auto box the torque convertor still turns and the internals (layshaft etc.) continue to turn albeit with little or no output torque.
Think of the transfer case as a manual gearbox on the end of an auto slushbox, and the Neutral position the remnants of the old PTO (power take off). If you stop in the N position this allows the gears to rotate ever so lightly and then you get a crunch when moving into a gear (lo4 or h4). The same applies to most manual gearboxes in most vehicles: change up or down and if you hesitate in Neutral on the way, you'll probably get a crunch unless you double-de-clutch (double-shuffle if you prefer). In the V8 supercars the shift up and down is INSTANT, no neutral, with a momentary cut to engine power, (kind of like a double declutch) and they have a 'crash box'(no syncro). Sometimes they miss a gear and get into all kinds of strife.
You can test this theory with a manual box if you try to change h4 to lo4 with the transmission in NEUTRAL and the clutch engaged...(as opposed to in-gear clutch disengaged) goes something like this: gearbox shaft turns, transfer case gears turn.... crunch! ESPECIALLY if you stop in the neutral transfer case position on the way through.
I agree with qwerty, "fast and firm" else you will always crunch the transfer.
'nuff said, Cheers G
Cheers Gipsy
although I'm sure somebody will challenge that
even Einstein wasn't certain of his theories.
My 2013 auto D4D DC SR5, prefilter, 3" exhaust and Chip with egt probe, stock SR5 rims with Toyo Open Country AT2 265/65R/17's