Noodle - the evolution continues- with pics

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Noodle - the evolution continues- with pics

Postby noodle on Sun, 08 Aug 2010 12:43 +0000

I thought I should put together a little piece about noodle.
Noodle is a 2007 T/D Dual Cab we brought in Dec 08, after deciding that a Prado and a Falcon RTV ute didn't suit our needs any more. Our other car was a new Falcon G6E so we needed something that we could do lots in.

Noodle was born
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The spotties and the antenna were stuck on just for the photo (to give it some cred) 

Noodle was quickly fitted with an Avenger XTC canopy before we moved from Sydney to Canberra. Once we settled in here, we added the dual battery system, and the snorkel from TJM in Mitchell

The front suspension was upgraded (so we could fit the BFG Muddies and rim off our old Prado) by Hume Offroad. On Richies recommendation we fitted Ridepro springs and bilstiens. One of the shocks leaked within 1000km’s which Richie again picked up…. And he fixed it on the spot. 

So at that stage noodle looked like this

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My brother–in-law built me a 3” exhaust whilst I was in Melbourne for work, but couldn’t make up a Dump pipe at the time. With the factory dump pipe and 3” system, when you changed gear with the turbo on full boost, you could clearly hear the impellor spinning…. The old flutter sound….. a few young guys at times looked for the doof doof car…. But all they saw was noodle :-p

Then a few more mods were added:
• The back seat fold down mod
• The seat belt mod
• The key in ignition mod
• Power Window mod
• Added a 12V and Earth rail inside the cabin (behind the glovebox)

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I then also half fitted Skogs diff breathers (still the same)

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There have been a few failures along the way. The first indash GSP unit I brought couldn’t run any GPS programs, and claimed to have TPMS fitted.

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I then finally bit the bullet and got a unit from digoptions. That led to the program that some of you are using (and some are abusing ;) )

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(check out the New Hilux Stubby Holder on the transfer case stick)

I also got the dual pillar pod with boost and pyro gauges from matt at Monster rides

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That’s the build for now…….. there are some issues I need to fix, but I will mention those in another post
Last edited by noodle on Wed, 27 Jul 2011 8:02 +0000, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Noodle is born

Postby Alby on Sun, 08 Aug 2010 1:27 +0000

It is coming along nicely Noodle,
where did you find that 12v fused rail from, I have been looking for one like that?
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Re: Noodle is born

Postby noodle on Sun, 08 Aug 2010 1:41 +0000

Alby wrote:It is coming along nicely Noodle,
where did you find that 12v fused rail from, I have been looking for one like that?


Supercrap mate, they have a few sizes, 4,6 and 8 position

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online ... aspx?id=21

and search by type = blade

Cheers
Al
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Re: Noodle is born

Postby Alby on Sun, 08 Aug 2010 1:53 +0000

Thanks Al. ;)
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Re: Noodle is born

Postby noodle on Sun, 15 Aug 2010 12:36 +0000

Continue from where I left off,

The build to date hasn't been without issues. I guess it's time to share them as well.

I've have/had issues with the following:

Injectors
Clutch
Alternator
Tyre rubbing
Canopy
Electrical wiring
Rear diff
Dual Battery System


Injectors.
Those of you who have been following the injector threads will know of some of the hassle I had leading up to getting them replaced November last year. One Toyota dealership in Canberra went out of their way to be unhelpful and non committal, whilst another did the opposite. The first dealership started with the claim I didn't know what I was talking about, to being told by a service rep that the noise I could hear was my tyres, to being told that the injector noise was in fact my catalytic convertor (which they replaced). I gave up on them there and then and after advice from Matt (in Canberra) I went elsewhere, and was promptly told that the injectors were so bad they couldn't even test it at idle. It took another 2 months to get them replaced. I believe the rattle has returned, my engine is so noisy compared to most other hiluxs I hear around me, I'll be taking it back shortly for another look. Now that MMAAXX has posted the replacement requirements for the injector system; I'll be focusing on that as well. Thanks Max

Clutch
I had the thrust bearing replaced not long after I brought noodle, and have had it replaced 2 more times since then. The last time (Nov 09) they ended replacing the whole clutch unit including the fork. The bearing noise is back again, so I guess it will be off to the workshop for another look. If they will not play the game, I may look at getting the unit supplied by Brendon and the boys from Ultimate Suspensions, and taking the hit myself in the pocket. To be honest I have never really had any slipping issues, only had it overheat once on a fire trail, but the problem I have had was with shuddering on take-up. So this one is a watch and see issue

Alternator
I have this replaced once due to a bearing fault, and had it replaced with no problems at all, except for one clown at the dealership (the original one from the injectors) telling me that the winch and it electrical load that would have caused it to fail. He pulled his head in when I said that the winch was a Toyota accessory, and perhaps they should look at what they supply then. I have noticed whilst I have had the dual battery system, the battery monitor never goes below 13.5V when I'm driving, so the batteries are getting a good service I believe. I still use a 3 stage charger at home to give them a good condition charge though.

Tyres
Because I have fitted the old prado rims and 265/75/16 muddies, there have been the usual issues with rubbing. Because I have the Toyota Breaker bar on the front, there is more of an issue with the front edge of the tyres rubbing then there would be if I had an ARB or TJM bar. I have done some cutting work on the plastic, and now I only get an occasional rub when at 3/4 lock to the right... regardless of compression. I can live with that.
The ongoing problem I face with these old rims is the gap between the rim spokes and the brake caliper (see below)

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I can fit a small metal rule in the gap between, and that is a snug fit, so only about 1-2 mm gap!!! I'm worried that the rim might flex one day and hit the caliper, but that would take a massive hit to do that, and the rim hitting the caliper would more than likely be the least of my concerns right then.

Canopy
As I said earlier, I purchased an Avenger canopy from Jesse and the guys early last year. I had the handle snap off in my hands when I first put in on the ute, but one call to Jesse, and I received a replacement within 2 days.... excellent service!
Over time, and constant rough driving (my 500m driveway seems like a fire trail some days) have seen a few issues raise their heads, but none that I wouldn't expect from any canopy given the conditions it's exposed to. The window rubbers are worn a bit, so the glass rattles around. I'll get hold of Jesse one day and see what he suggests. Because of the constant vibration from my driveway and the general road around here, the sealing rubbers glue gave up and I had to remove the canopy and reglue all the rubbers back on. Again, not something I would blame on this canopy, I think all canopies will do this eventually. The interior light doesn't work anymore, then on/off switch failed some time ago. Again I put this down to vibration. I was planning on replacing the light with an LED one anyway... another to do job. My only gripe about canopies with sealed front glass is you can't clean them easily.

Rear Diff
After my 80K service, I had a grinding noise and shuddering from the rear diff. Whenever I reversed into a parking spot the whole rear would almost leap off the ground and would shudder like mad. The noise was unbelievable. I called Toyota right away and was told that "my" diff had a really tight clutch pack in it, and because they replaced the oil, it would take a while to settle down again. Well after 200Km it was still there, so I took it in one day unannounced, and by the time I finished reversing into a parking spot in their service yard, I had 4 mechanics and the dealer principal standing outside to see what the noise was. They though a customer had come in and gone troppo on the cars hehe. Funny thing is they put it on the hoist, stood around scratching their heads form a while and then dropped it off the lift and gave it back to me. The service manager told me he wanted the ute for 2 weeks so they could remove the diff, dissemble the gears and get them checked out. Sounded at little worrying to me, but he said they could not find the cause, and wanted to strip it down to see. Organised the times and when I drove off, not a sound came out of the diff. Unfortunately for me the service manager quit a few days later, and when I dropped it off to get striped, they called me up to find out why they had it. Needless to say, unpleasant words were spoken..... and now 9 months later I have a whine in my diff on light throttle. Yet another thing to go back with.... the list is growing

Electrical
This one is bizarre and I have no idea how to find this, maybe you can help.
I fitted the gps unit from Digoptions, and fitted the rear camera as well. I wired up the camera power to the reversing light on the right rear light, and the reversing sensor for the gps unit comes from the relay behind the glove box, as described another post. The manual and wiring diagrams back this up........ The problem is this.....
When I am reversing (with no trailer on) and I touch the brake pedal, there is a period of time (1-2 sec) when the feed from the camera blanks out and then recovers the image. When I have a trailer attached, whenever I apply the brakes, the screen on the gps unit cuts over to the reversing camera window, but the camera does not come on...... I know this is pointing to a brake issue, but the system goes nowhere near the braking circuit. I initially put the problem in the rear light, but that would not explain why the camera screen comes on when I hit the brakes ONLY when a trailer is attached. The trailers are all LED, so the load is not that great, and I have the extra relay fitted by Toyota because of the lights in the bullbar.
Anyone got an opinion on this one? Beginning to do my head in this one is.

Dual Battery System
This one is more of a what should I do problem.
My current setup is a Piranha DBE180S+ feeding my starter battery and a Supercharge 105Ah deep cycle battery. I run all my accessories off the Aux battery, but nothing I have fitted is a big constant current draw item. The spotties are probably the biggest drain, but even that is only an occasional drain. All our fridges are in our camper trailer, which already has 220Ah battery system in it. I do connect this to the aux side of the battery system when we are on the road, but the batteries are always fully charged when we leave, and by the time we head home the fridge’s are either off, or turned right down so the drain isn't too high.
I also have the winch wired to the Aux battery which is a no-no I am Know, and that’s what is the root of my problem. I am pretty sure everything fitted to the ute can run off a normal battery, and keeping the winch on the deep cycle battery can only spell early death for it.... so I am thinking or removing the deep cycle and replacing it with a large capacity normal battery. If I do this, then I really don't need the dual battery system in the ute. If I run the 2 starting batteries in parallel, then the alternator can charge them up, and I'll continue to give them a monthly deep charge with the 3 stage charger like I do now.
I am thinking about removing the dual battery system from the starter batteries....... fitting a dc-dc charger, and using the Piranha system to switch this on and off. I would then use the dc-dc charger to run the batteries in the camper trailer. I would also add the old Aux battery to the camper, giving me a 300+Ah system.
What’s the general opinion on this?

That will do for now, there is more stuff to come, next is the future for noodle.
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Re: Noodle - the issues

Postby lmichie on Sun, 15 Aug 2010 2:47 +0000

Good luck with sortingout the dealer issues.

My thoughts on the reverse camera is the 0V side of your brake light and reverse light is not connected properly. This means that when 12v is applied to the brake light, you are not actually getting 12v across your reverse light and therefore yoyr reverse camera. Try checking the voltage across the different lights and camera and see if what you get with and without the brakes on.

With your dual battery system, you only need to isolate the second battery when you're stopped if you are running things off it while stopped. If you are only running things while on the go then I wouldn't worry about the dual battery system and just runn two matched batteries in parrallel which will give you more grunt for winching etc. Some DC-DC chargers have an input to switch them off with the ignition so the pirahnah system becomes complately obsolete.
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Re: Noodle - the issues

Postby johnny5x on Sun, 15 Aug 2010 5:16 +0000

Al,

When i press my brake pedal i get the same quick cut out on the screen. Not sure what it is but im not worried. I havent tried it yet with a trailer but will take next time i do.
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Re: Noodle - the issues

Postby noodle on Sun, 15 Aug 2010 6:53 +0000

The pain in the butt part is when your towing a trailer, everytime you hit the brakes, whatever music is on, cuts out.... :evil:
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Re: Noodle - the issues

Postby Skog07 on Sun, 15 Aug 2010 7:13 +0000

noodle wrote:I can fit a small metal rule in the gap between, and that is a snug fit, so only about 1-2 mm gap!!! I'm worried that the rim might flex one day and hit the caliper, but that would take a massive hit to do that, and the rim hitting the caliper would more than likely be the least of my concerns right then.

Al. Im amazed at how close these rims are to the caliper but mine have never touched...
Like you I have have had some issues with the release bearing on the clutch. I do tend to get it on cold mornings and after I have done some water crossings etc... I found that if you jump underneath it and grab the shift fork the sound disappears when idleing in neutral clutch engaged. If you depress the pedal and disengage the clutch when idling does the sound disappear???
I thought I had clutch shudder until I drove my mates 2wd diesel 05 model... on a cold morning it felt like it was bunny hopping once warm though it disappeared.
Cheers
Mark
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Re: Noodle - the issues

Postby Steve9R on Sun, 15 Aug 2010 7:16 +0000

run the camera from the wire under the dash not off the rear lights.. this one..

Image
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Re: Noodle - the issues

Postby noodle on Mon, 16 Aug 2010 3:12 +0000

lmichie wrote:My thoughts on the reverse camera is the 0V side of your brake light and reverse light is not connected properly. This means that when 12v is applied to the brake light, you are not actually getting 12v across your reverse light and therefore yoyr reverse camera. Try checking the voltage across the different lights and camera and see if what you get with and without the brakes on.


I measure the voltages thanks, however, I think if it was a low voltage problem, then the camera wouldn't work at all. But that measuring as you suggested will prove that for sure ;)

Steve9R wrote:run the camera from the wire under the dash not off the rear lights.. this one..

I was trying to shy away from this, because I already have a few wires running from the front to rear of the ute, and I want to limit the number of penetrations into the cabin area, the less the number of holes, the less chance of water getting in :)
One solution is the install of a 12V distribution box in the canopy area (along with the dc-dc charger?) and powering the camera full time. I can then add a switch in to use the rear view whenever I want. The only downside is the lifespan of the camera will be shortened...... by how much though :shock:

efini7 wrote:Al,

When i press my brake pedal i get the same quick cut out on the screen. Not sure what it is but im not worried. I havent tried it yet with a trailer but will take next time i do.


I might throw this problem into the tech section to give it a bit more visability, especially seeing that I'm not the only one having issues

lmichie wrote:With your dual battery system, you only need to isolate the second battery when you're stopped if you are running things off it while stopped. If you are only running things while on the go then I wouldn't worry about the dual battery system and just runn two matched batteries in parrallel which will give you more grunt for winching etc. Some DC-DC chargers have an input to switch them off with the ignition so the pirahnah system becomes complately obsolete.

Thats my plan, but I'm trying to use the Pirahnah system so it's not an admission of failure. :( I suppose I could sell the system and use the funds towards the dc-dc charger purchase. 8-)
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Re: Noodle - the issues

Postby lmichie on Mon, 16 Aug 2010 3:59 +0000

noodle wrote:I measure the voltages thanks, however, I think if it was a low voltage problem, then the camera wouldn't work at all. But that measuring as you suggested will prove that for sure ;)


It may not be low voltage as such but the voltage drop across different elements. If you have a point resistance in the "earth" side of your tail light circuit. You may find that the -ve side of your camera and reverse light isn't actually 0V. for the sake of explanation, if you have a 1ohm resistance in the laine and draw 1amp through the circuit you will have a 1 volt drop across the "resistance" This only leaves 11 volts across the camera which may be enough for it to work. When you apply the brakes, the brake light then allows another 1 amp to flow through. This means you now have a 2 volt drop across your resistance which means you now only have 10volts across your camera which may not be enough to run it hence you lose the signal. The problem is made worse if you have the trailer adding extra current to the circuit. As suggested, check the voltages across:
1)reverse camera in normal operation
2)reverse camera with brakes on
3)reverse cammera as brakes are applied
4)-ve side of camera to negative terminal of battery with brakes on and off.

I hope I haven't just confused you more :)

And it isn't an admission of failure, it's an improvement on an already good system. ;)
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Re: Noodle - the issues

Postby noodle on Tue, 17 Aug 2010 10:28 +0000

Don't worry mate you haven't confused me..... 22 yrs in the electronic field made sure of that ;)
Nice explanation though :D
If the earth was floating as you suggest, then the camera would never work because the voltage drop when the brakes were applied would not change.... as you said the drop might increase to 2v. The camera feed only drops for a second and then comes back on solid, so I think the problem lies elsewhere. I'm going to measure the voltage drop anyway, even just to rule it out.
The more I think about this, the more I'm inclined to think that the whole problem, (trailer or no trailer) lies with the actual camera activation feed from the unit. It's the activation of the brake cct that blanks the display out, not necessarily cuts the camera off. The feed might be coming from the camera fine; it’s just the unit display that is wiping out. I think I need to revist my tyerminations of bothe the unit and the camera and make sure I’ve got good solid connections.

I’ll let you know how it all goes :|
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Re: Noodle - the issues

Postby Steve9R on Thu, 19 Aug 2010 8:00 +0000

yeah i run constant power to my camera, (via ACC) as i have the overide switch and quite often flick it on to see whats going on behind me... no issues at all on mine..

Steve
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Re: Noodle - the issues

Postby Steve9R on Tue, 05 Oct 2010 5:19 +0000

did you ever fix your camera noodle ?

dont know whether you thought of it, but when your trailer is connected you're probably drawing power for its lights from your current lights via the trailer plug.. so when you go to reverse the extra current drain to power the trailer reverse lights drops the available voltage to the camera so its too low..

run constant power from another source to your camera and it should fix it..

Steve
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Re: Noodle - the issues

Postby noodle on Tue, 05 Oct 2010 10:21 +0000

Steve9R wrote:did you ever fix your camera noodle ?

dont know whether you thought of it, but when your trailer is connected you're probably drawing power for its lights from your current lights via the trailer plug.. so when you go to reverse the extra current drain to power the trailer reverse lights drops the available voltage to the camera so its too low..

run constant power from another source to your camera and it should fix it..

Steve


Still haven't got around to it just yet, but will be looking at it shortly.
I will definately be running dedicated power to the camera, what you say sounds right.

When I have the camper trailer connected the stereo unit cuts to the camera feed (but doesn't activate the camera) when ever I hit the brakes. The camper has electric brakes which adds fuel to the voltage in the trailer plug being loaded down by any circuit activating.. eg brakes or reverse. The 8x5 trailer doesn't have any effect other than the camera feed blanking out when in reverse and braking, same as it does without a trailer.

I'm thinking about hard wiring the trailer plug directly into the relays and bypassing the factory loom. If I use bigger cable then the voltage drop will dissapear and then it should all work correctly. 8-)
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Re: Noodle - the issues

Postby hodgo81 on Tue, 05 Oct 2010 1:02 +0000

Noodle
to me it sounds a lot like a poor earth with a bit of float.
I'd start by tacking a few extra chassis earths in the back. One from the tail light part of the loom, one from the trailer plug and one from the reversing camera.
then option 2 would be a new power/switching source for the camera.
then option 3 rewire trailer loom and camera seperately from the front.
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Re: Noodle - the issues

Postby noodle on Fri, 08 Oct 2010 8:36 +0000

hodgo81 wrote:Noodle
to me it sounds a lot like a poor earth with a bit of float.
I'd start by tacking a few extra chassis earths in the back. One from the tail light part of the loom, one from the trailer plug and one from the reversing camera.
then option 2 would be a new power/switching source for the camera.
then option 3 rewire trailer loom and camera seperately from the front.


I agree about the earth being the likely culprit, but whilst I'm under there sorting that out, I might as well improve on the quality of the wiring and know that the problem won't come back any time soon.
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Re: Noodle - the issues

Postby stewy101 on Thu, 14 Oct 2010 10:35 +0000

Steve9R wrote:run the camera from the wire under the dash not off the rear lights.. this one..

Image


Hi Steve,
Im currently trying to work out which wire (under the dash) to use for the reverse camera input, when reverse is selected. I obiously want to avoud running a wire from the tail light supply as there must be one under the dash already.

Any help on this or a clearer pic with description would be helpful....?

Cheers, Tony
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Re: Noodle - the issues

Postby stewy101 on Thu, 14 Oct 2010 10:36 +0000

I have also asked this question on this thread - A-SURE Double Din Stereo replacement
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