Critter350

[Critter350]

Had an ARB Frontier (poly) tank and bash plates fitted. Second time someone else has done the work for me (first time was lockers). I do prefer doing stuff myself but it’s a timing thing, planning on Holland track this weekend.
Tank hangs down a bit

Bash plates look ok but don’t like the radiator is still exposed to sticks etc.


What have others done to fill the gap to the bullbar?


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[Myralga]

As anything goes arb gear is designed to go with arb gear.

So when you buy a ARB bull bar and UVP they actually create one continuous sheet of metal. The air gap you have is a plate that would normally come with a ARB bull bar

Your bullbar didn’t have an extra plate that wasn’t installed?

I see you like to modify stuff so if not just get a piece of sheet metal cut to shape and pick up the front bolts of the UVP (between chassis and UVP) and the last bolts on your bar pan assembly or make some new mounting holes.

Next time you walking past a ARB bar on a ute like yours just have a quick look under the front it will give you some clarification.

ARB’s Bull bars steel replaces all the plastic bits on the front underside. So it stops where the genuine steel bash plate starts.

Seems like your bar doesn’t do that?


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[Critter350]

Yeah I get that. My OCAM (have been told they’re an Iron Man knock off) did have a plate at the front that basically cover the underside of the winch. The section behind it- immediately forward of the radiator- was still exposed. I removed that plate because the installers told me they would be connecting the bullbar and might have to fab something to get it to fit because it wasn’t ARB.
Turns out it goes nowhere near the bullbar and didn’t need to remove that plate at all.

So yeah, I’ll fab something up.


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[Myralga]

Yeah ARBs UVPs are designed to work with both their bar and the genuine bumper that’s why they cut so short compared to other competitors products.
Just another way for them to “pull you in” for that “awesome” “combo deal”.

I’m glad they explained it to you and didn’t just sell to you. As a ex sales guy I hate stories from customers that were mis-informed or not told the details in the first place.

Best one that always stuck with me was while I was a fitter.
Salesman brought the customer out just as I had finished cutting all the holes for his snorkel. The customer lost their $h!t asking why I had destroyed their car.
I was cheeky and asked “how did you expect the air to get to the air box? WiFi? Bluetooth?”
I left it to the salesman to sort it out after that. As I was meant to be on lunch but had been pushing through as the “customer wanted it in a hurry.”
Didn’t see the point in hurrying after that outburst.


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[Critter350]

So for the next instalment of hangover fabrications....

Ally checker plate $58 from Bunnings

Old bed frame, broom handle, few clamps

And fill the gap between bullbar and bashplate



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[NZMarkb]

Nice work mate

[Myralga]

I love the sheet metal bender. Must admit that came out really really nicely.

Great job mate


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[Critter350]

New boots today.
33k over two years out of the last ones - ‘Ultima M/T’ in 31x10.5 on 15x7 kings rim, have around 30% left. Some scalloping on the fronts as they were never rotated. Getting louder...


New Ones:
ROH Trak 2 16x8 P5
BFG KO2 265/70R16
ODO is 239800, lets see how these last.
Much smoother and quieter so far.
12mm total tread depth, 9mm to the indicators.



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[Critter350]

I love my tray and canopy but didn’t like the wasted space under there. It’s 100mm Z purlin sitting on uni strut that’s sitting on a bit of 40mm square tube.

Made use of some of it to carry the treds and shovel.

But reckon I can do better and want a water tank too, so started to fab a new sub floor out of 150mm Z purlin.
Bending the 2mm galv purlin took a little more persuasion than the old bed frame could offer.



Hmm maybe there’s room for a battery or two in there as well, just need a tray. 1.6mm ally sheet marked out

Cut out with jig saw

And bent up in the patent pending bed frame bender



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[Critter350]

Few practice runs later and the battery tray is welded together. Little MIG did ok without a spool gun or even U groove roller. It’s part number RU301010.09.12, but you reckon I can find one? Just gotta keep the snake straightish with fairly lazy bends. Don’t laugh, first time welding Ali and it’s 20 years since I’ve done any deal of welding at all




Fits fairly well. 1025mm long, it would fit 3xN70’s but I wouldn’t want the weight. Maybe a pair of lithium’s somewhere down the track.

Water tank will sit somewhere about there and then a 1500mm drawer behind it.


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[Critter350]

Bit of channel on the back to reinforce for the pump. Having an off day with the welder, probably should have left it for another day. Out of site out of mind (eventually).


Pump mounted with glands for the cables, breakers and earth bus, and grommets for water pipe


For the battery hold down there’s a piece of 50x50x3mm underneath, 30x30x3mm top and three lengths of 6mm stainless rod.


12mm marine ply base to distribute the weight a little.
Tools we’re getting out of hand all over the shed floor so added a new Bunnings shelf to the shed, with a few cordless tool holders


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[Critter350]

Didn’t think this through. Easy enough to lift off.

Getting it back on could be a problem.


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[Critter350]

Dont know if anyone’s reading this but I’ll ask for your help anyway.
Option 1 (Original plan), water tank at the front, big ass drawer with shovel, traks, etc:


Option 2 (Scope creep), battery and pump box added. Smaller drawer but big enough for the gear. But this doesn’t work... not enough room between shock tower and fuel inlet for the water tank:


Option 3 - rotate water tank 90°. Can still fit the essentials, but it’s cramped. Tank mounting is a bit of a pain, probably build up off the chassis rather than suspending from the new frame.


Maybe I go back to option 1, and put under tray boxes between the cab and back wheels - battery one side and pump the other.

Thoughts and recommendations? (Please!)


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[martynvella]

Bit of a pickle.
I would go option 1.
The exhaust is too close to the battery box if you go with that box and if you go option 3 you will have a lot of weight on the left hand side with full fuel and water tank.

[Chopps]

I agree with option 3 being too heavy on the left
Would be a bit of a shame to loose that box that you knocked up.
You could get exhaust wrap for the exhaust/muffler and heat shield the battery box.Some good products out there for that. Looks like you are almost due for a new exhaust - after market mufflers are a bit smaller in diameter so will give more clearance if you do decide to replace.
There must be a shop around Perth that can plastic weld and modify the tank to fit in option 2.
You might even be able to do it yourself

[NZMarkb]

I like the big ass draw option too
More flexibility

[Critter350]

Damn.. kind of leaning toward option 3, but maybe I’m being greedy.
Weight distribution side to side - I’ve got 40kg on my passenger, plus the 25kg of battery moving from passenger side to drivers. And it’s not that far from centre line... (bias confirmation?)
Could use the heat shielding above the exhaust, similar to the stuff on fuel tank. Exhaust wrap is a good idea too. There is 100mm air gap between muffler and box.

Thanks for the feedback fellas.

[dave g]

Hi
You can order the roller from Bunnings on a special orders
The supplier has them in stock i got one a few weeks ago

[Critter350]

Yeah got one now thanks Dave. Asked at Bunnings first, couldn’t find or order even though I had the part number. Emailed the supplier, who told me I had to go through Bunnings... different person on special orders desk that day and (two weeks later) now I have the roller.
Haven’t used it yet, need another ali project....


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[Myralga]

Hey critter I see you already have a tank but look alternate shapes and mounts can offer you a better tank solution possibly.

Two companies come to mind.

Enmach-

Boab-


they both do both water and fuel tanks in various sizes. Just do a google.

Might inspire you or someone else coming to your garage in the future.


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