Ayden's daily driver '10 SR Dual cab

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Ayden's daily driver '10 SR Dual cab

Postby abeeson on Mon, 09 Feb 2015 7:13 +0000

Well i've finally gotten some time to get some pictures taken and get some words written, so its about time i start out my build thread!

As i said in my intro thread, i've bought a 2010 Dual cab D4D, had 63k on the clock which is pretty nice and low, though it was a NSW RFS (Rural fire service) car before i bought it, so its seen a bit of action. The bottom side, in particular the steps and bash plates are pretty beat up, but mechanically its fine and its nothing i'm not going to replace anyway.

The car will be my daily driver and is also the primary family car for myself, the missus and the 3 terrors, so nothing too crazy is planned so far, though a lift is on the list for the future, it won't be a big one (2" likely). I managed to clock up another 8k km's while on holidays so its a little over 70k now.

Here is the lux as it is now:
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The day after I bought it the snorkel went on, I knew that'd be handy for all sorts of reasons so I made sure I had money in the budget for that immediately, though I did do the slack thing and paid to have it installed.

While i was away on Christmas holidays I roped the brother in law into giving me a hand and i got the rear seat mod done to allow me to fold it down for storage space. I'd read it was easy, but wow, it was EASY. Tonnes of space back there and with that chunk gone and a little electrical tape around the metal hoops, the rattle on one side is gone!

While i was away up in QLD I bought a Runva 11XP winch to be installed in the breaker bar. I wasn't 100% on how this would happen, but thanks to previous posts on here i knew it COULD be done, so i forged ahead mostly blind. Once i was home i bought the winch cradle from Toyota, which turned out to be $175 + GST (so $192.50 total)

In my opinion, that is a little pricey, but it is a serious piece of steel and I'd say its added a tonne of strength to the bar, so I'm not unhappy about it.

While i was waiting for the cradle i got impatient and decided to fit the controller. Turns out this comes with two different brackets, neither of which was 100% right. I ended up using the angle piece, but at the angle it started out at (about 40 degrees or so) it was hitting the plastic skirting under the bodywork that seperates the bar and the body. A little under foot flexing dropped that down to a more reasonable 20 degrees (approx) and it fit easy.
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The box used to have the Runva logo on it (as you can see from the glue residue), however while i was putting it on i managed to break the va off it (the back side wasnt very well attached). I considered just leaving the "RUN" on there, but decided against it :D I also removed the giant "12V" sticker on the controller plug, no need to advertise that.

Once the cradle arrived, i went to town on the instructions, turns out it was VERY easy to do. The instructions, which Toyota superwinch specific, were generic enough to understand. I roped a friend into helping me (so i could hold the winch up and he could bolt it in) and we got started.
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PS - On the above image is also the number plate holder, which i already had, as well as a strange part that is apparently needed on the newer (11/06+) models, part 14, bottom left. Not sure where it goes or what it does, the instructions are completely unclear, so if you have a newer lux be aware of that, it looks like it holds cage nuts so i'm guessing your breaker bar might be missing a row of cage nut attachments or something?

There are 8 large cage nuts that clip into the square holes in the bar, these hold the main cradle plate in. On top of that are two large reinforcement bars, these mount to the centre of the winch cradle and the edges of the bar and provide the top strength it needs.
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The instructions show the bar being removed, winch being installed, then the bar going back on. I decided this was a bad idea, and simply mounted the winch cradle, then the reinforcement crossbars, then attached the winch afterwards. This was easy enough to do, however you'll need at least two people and I had a complication where the bolts that ship with the winch are not long enough to get through the top holes, through the fairlead, then the cradle, then into the winch. A quick trip to the shops got me replacement M10x50 bolts to fix that (high tensile ones, in a pack of 10 from memory) - A few extra washers is a good idea too, though i didnt require them it probably wouldn't have hurt to space the extra bolt length out a little.

As for the fairlead, I used an offset hawse to ensure it fit neat enough, this is not optional for this!

I have seen people do custom jobs to get the fairlead to mount on the face of the bar, but this required no extra work welding or cutting, and i actually like the recessed look it has now
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Mounting the winch so it spooled out over the top of the drum was easy, i could have rotated the gearbox / clutch lever around as well, but having it on the top would be hard to get to (you could through the gap in the bar, but it would be uncomfortable) and down meant risking hitting it, so i left it as is. Its actually pretty easy to get at, though not as nice as on top of the bar access would have been.
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Electrical connections were awkward, but doable. I'd suggest trying to get these done after mounting the cradle, but before bolting the winch in, clearance up there is not great and it meant using spanners rather than decent socket wrenches as it wouldn't clear once installed.

The negative into the winch mounts under the winch (as you can see) up to the battery, but there is a small ground you run from the controller to the winch, it was too short to make the distance, so i joined it onto some old decent gauge speaker wire i had lying around, hence the small grey/brown wire coming out from under the large negative battery cable.

Once that was done, i got the power onto the battery and gave it a test go, working perfectly i was pretty happy. The next day i went down to super cheap after a lot of hunting and bought a 10cm 2 gauge "battery" cable, which was annoyingly blue, but a little red electrical tape sorted that! I couldn't find anything else anywhere else so if you need one, that's your best / easiest bet.

It was short enough to come off the battery and onto the isolation switch (which was supplied with the winch) without being so long the switch drooped down. The switch is suitable, but has no backing on it, so i taped over the pillars to ensure they cant ever short.

Annoyingly, the positive lug on the supplied (and pre-installed) cable from the winch to the battery is too small to fit on the supplied isolation switch, but only just, so a pair of vice-grips and a small adjustment with a drill bit sorted that out. (the supercheap cable lugs fit no problem on both the isolator and the battery)

I cable tied the key onto the switch (two cable ties, looping into each others loop rather than joined to give it a bit of give) so it wouldn't fall down into the engine (which I did while testing it and got it caught in the various cables and hoses just there under it and burnt my hand retrieving it, not happy about that!), but now that's done its a completed job and I am happy.
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Next up will be either the
a) Diff breather extension, or
b) replacement bash plates (at least the front engine cover one which is the most damaged)

Not sure which yet, I'll decide soon enough though.
abeeson
 
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Re: Ayden's daily driver '10 SR Dual cab

Postby abeeson on Mon, 09 Feb 2015 7:14 +0000

While I was away, i noticed a strange noise while changing down gears, particularly at higher speeds if you didn't rev match it (caused by the rear end vibration it seems). While it was in for a service I asked them to have a look, turns out the exhaust cover (i think they said?) was a little bent, another RFS ding I'm sure, and was causing the noise.

It was loud, but not "bad", it sounded almost like I was hitting air brakes, but you only really heard it inside the car as far as I could tell, but i'm glad its gone!

EDIT: PS - I've decided bash plates will be from MR, the buds customs ones, in Zinc which i'll spray myself in black. I'll be hitting them up as soon as i have some money for em, they are really solid, light years ahead of most of the other thin ones i have seen.
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Re: Ayden's daily driver '10 SR Dual cab

Postby cuzo4x4 on Mon, 09 Feb 2015 10:04 +0000

looking good bud - good heads up on the part number
If I have anything Good to Say it will be Above.
My Shed: cuzo's Build
Pssst, if anyone asks, I was here between 10pm and 3am last night.


Shawn
07 SR5 Dual Cab
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Re: Ayden's daily driver '10 SR Dual cab

Postby mark409 on Fri, 01 May 2015 8:36 +0000

Just purchased the hilux cradle to install my new Runva 11xp ,have been reading your string on how to do it.
Very good . First hurdle I,ve struck the 8 by 10mm caged nuts ,I cant get them in ,have just snapped the side of 1 of them.
Got a sept 2013 trayback ..with the genuine hilux steel bulbar., it has the all the barwork that boxhead says u need for the winch install .
Which I haven,t got that far yet ,,cos I can,t even get the caged nuts in the bracket its pretty thick as you said. :roll: (Steel)
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Re: Ayden's daily driver '10 SR Dual cab

Postby TOYZX on Fri, 01 May 2015 10:04 +0000

Looks like the goods mate. Mite wanna keep an eye out when winching on angles, looks like your winch sits a long way inside your bar? Rope may rub on the bar! Mite be just the pic tho?
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Re: Ayden's daily driver '10 SR Dual cab

Postby abeeson on Tue, 07 Jul 2015 7:55 +0000

mark409 wrote:Just purchased the hilux cradle to install my new Runva 11xp ,have been reading your string on how to do it.
Very good . First hurdle I,ve struck the 8 by 10mm caged nuts ,I cant get them in ,have just snapped the side of 1 of them.
Got a sept 2013 trayback ..with the genuine hilux steel bulbar., it has the all the barwork that boxhead says u need for the winch install .
Which I haven,t got that far yet ,,cos I can,t even get the caged nuts in the bracket its pretty thick as you said. :roll: (Steel)


That sucks, mine fit, they were just a bit of a pain. Take it back to Toyota and tell them and ask for a repalcement one?

TOYZX wrote:Looks like the goods mate. Mite wanna keep an eye out when winching on angles, looks like your winch sits a long way inside your bar? Rope may rub on the bar! Mite be just the pic tho?


Its not as bad as the picture makes it look, but it is definitely recessed. I was thinking about adding another fairlead onto the front, i still have the original straight mount fairlead that I didnt use that i could mount there, its on my list of things to look at :)
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Re: Ayden's daily driver '10 SR Dual cab

Postby Markn on Sun, 06 Mar 2016 6:31 +0000

Thanks for the detailed instructions, I have just purchased the same set up and will be attempting the installation soon. You mentioned that you needed an offset hawse fairlead and was not optional? Does this mean that the winch would not work without it?
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Re: Ayden's daily driver '10 SR Dual cab

Postby Kizz on Tue, 28 Jun 2016 1:08 +0000

I've spent hours searching for this! Good to know that the Toyota winch cradle supports the runva 11XP. Will be doing this install this week.

What offset hawse fairlead did you get??
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Re: Ayden's daily driver '10 SR Dual cab

Postby abeeson on Sat, 31 Dec 2016 11:09 +0000

Hey Kizz / Markn

Sorry i hadn't seen the message, i know it's very late now, but just in case, it was just a standard offset Hawse that they had on the shelf, nothing overly fancy.

The offset was needed to get the hawse to line up with the bolt holes and the winch at the same time with enough top clearance for the cradle / bar. it just didn't fit right without that, and i don't think would have worked, at least not properly.
Last edited by abeeson on Sat, 31 Dec 2016 4:04 +0000, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Ayden's daily driver '10 SR Dual cab

Postby abeeson on Sat, 31 Dec 2016 11:18 +0000

Geez, that car up the top looks nothing like my car now.

Since i've last updated this, i've:
FItted Buds Customs / MR replacement bash plates
Fitted a UHF radio and antenna
Got roof racks fitted
Added a shovel and awning to the roof
Removed the stock alloy steps (after tearing the front mount off one of them while out bush)
Swapped the wheels for Gecko 16x7's @ +20 w/ 235/85r16 Mickey T P3's - These fit well, but check my specific post when i put it up for some details.
Added a light bar into the middle hoop on the bar using bar clamps
Done a custom spray on tub liner
Fit a dual battery setup (with an ARB tray and Century battery under the bonnet, and a CTEK D250S in the cabin)
Added TJM Side steps (pending the brush bars, they are still not in stock yet after the father's day freebie sale)
Swapped out my grille with a custom one similar to others on the forum
Moved the light bar up to the top front of the hoop to open up the grille a bit more and to neaten up the front.

I'll try to dig up pictures etc, I think i have some of most of those things and stick them up here, next up just after Christmas holidays when i get home, a likely 3" lift, from CalOffroad, with extended brake lines and proportioning valve, 99% decided on that now.
Last edited by abeeson on Sat, 31 Dec 2016 4:09 +0000, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Ayden's daily driver '10 SR Dual cab

Postby abeeson on Sat, 31 Dec 2016 12:00 +0000

Found some pictures post tub liner, so here they are.

I'd gotten a quote from a local repair / wreckers that does one of the bigger commercial liner company installs (can't recall which brand), they quoted me something crazy like $1,500 or something to do it, so i decided DIY wasn't so bad.

Bought myself the raptor liner kit from a place in WA that did cheap postage too, i think all up it cost me about 220 or so, plus a shultz gun for about 25, some cans of primer, some thin plastic drop sheets from Bunnings and various bits and pieces i didn't have to get the tub completely cleaned up before hand, i'd say it was under 300 easy.

We removed the canopy, masked off the car from the tub, and the outside of the tub from the edge / inside, scrubbed the tub down, rust reverser treated the couple of small spots where things had scratched it (the tub was in pretty decent shape tbh) and once that had done its job, scruff sanded it, cleaned it again and applied the grey spray primer to the whole tub.

The next day, i gave it another wash and light scuff, then started applying the spray on liner. I went with the up and over style, somebody else on the forum had sprayed over their tub loops, which I liked and stole quite happily :)

Image
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It was pretty easy to do, but my three top tips for anybody trying it are:
1. Make sure you have shaken the hardener through the bottle THOROUGHLY once you mix it. I didn't mix one proeprly (the third bottle, the lid cracked and it was leaking out as I shook it, so i stopped early, big mistake as it started coming out of the gun in claggy blobs like snot)
2. Spray evenly, and try not to go back over it in patches if you can avoid it.
3. Make sure you mask much further than you think you'll need to.

I ended up overspraying a little onto the right rear door, very fine but its still there now, so definitely get your masking on much further than required.

The bit I did spray when it wasn't mixed properly was luckily in the tub floor, so its worn the blobs down and looks normal now. It's been a year since i did it, I've carried all sorts of stuff in the back, and it looks pretty much the same as it started out, just a bit dirtier now than it was :)

It also didn't affect the canopy, i refit the existing rubber i'd removed, using double sided tape to hold it on the tub as a ran it around, fit perfectly, though the canopy did take a little coaxing to get it to fit exactly the same ( the rubber had been off for a week or two and had expanded as well, so it was likely a bit of both)

Definitely some of the best money I've spent on the car.

PS other than using spray cans of paint i have / had pretty much zero experience doing this sort of stuff, so its definitely not an "experts only" job, though if you have somebody with experience you'll get a much nicer finish. You can apparently roll it on too, but i much preferred the spray guns finish and I wanted to get it on evenly, so I went that way.
abeeson
 
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Re: Ayden's daily driver '10 SR Dual cab

Postby abeeson on Sat, 31 Dec 2016 12:05 +0000

Here is the pre/post wheel change:

Before - Stock 16x6 Hilux SR rims with stock 205/80 tyres.
Image

After - Gecko 16x7 steelies @ +20 offset (i think) (original SRs are +27 or +25 or something like that) w/ Mickey T P3's 235/85/16s
Image

Big difference in the car in general, and the 235/85s fit perfectly. Not a lot of room between the front tyres and the guard, but its pretty sagged from the breaker bar, winch etc so it doesn't really have much down travel left on it and it hasn't been a problem yet.
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