NewHilux.net

ktm300 wrote:

jaydo wrote:

apSlain wrote:Nice stuff man, might have to accelerate a locker up the priority list. What made you go with the ELocker over an Air Locker?

Cost was a major contributor. E-Locker fitted was 2k and Air locker was 2.5ish for memory because you had to add the compressor if you didn't already have one. Also less things that could go wrong with the E-Locker eg. no air lines.
I figured if most modern 4x4 companies are putting E-lockers into their cars they must be a good thing.

With a properly run air line and a properly run power supply to the rear diff .
Whats the difference they can both be damaged. Cant They ??????

I'm sure they can, but like I said - the main reason I went with Electronic is because it was cheaper than air. Even if they are both the same and do the same thing, why pay extra for the same function. Harrop/Eaton are a reputable brand. Still saved me $500 odd that I can spend elsewhere.

Also 12v has alot harder time leaking past seals or forcing oil back up lines

Build is going awesome jaydo, you'll be surprised how much more trouble you can get yourself into with lockers

E lockers FTW!!!

fracturedranga wrote:Also 12v has alot harder time leaking past seals or forcing oil back up lines

Build is going awesome jaydo, you'll be surprised how much more trouble you can get yourself into with lockers

Yeah - I found that out last weekend at cruiser park when i picked a line that I shouldn't have (because I wanted to see what the locker could do). The end result was my tailgate into a tree because I slid sideways and then backwards. If I can't pop the dent out I'll be looking for a new tailgate

They do make the drive a lot more fun though!

Any chance of pictures or steps of laying down the fuel door release cable - I have had a quick search to no avail?

Looking mint dude

Great build up mate! Sick truck, looks good!

llough10 wrote:Any chance of pictures or steps of laying down the fuel door release cable - I have had a quick search to no avail?

Didn't take any pictures while I was doing it, but its a pretty start forward procedure.
What are you having trouble working out?

Hey guys,

I am thinking about changing my roof racks from the cross bars to one of the Rhino Tradie racks. Problem is, I am a little worried about how it will sit when my RTT is also on the car. I jumped up with a measuring tape and had a guess at where the rack would sit on the car and there will be some slight over hang at the rear which may not work the with rack my RTT sits on.

My question is; anyone who is running the Rhino pioneer rack, tradie rack or flat platform rack, do you know if you are able to move the rack forwards or backwards on the leggings or do the legging need to be moved as well?

I was to buy the longer rack that the smaller one just for a little more room, but if I can't adjust where it sits on the roof, I will have to buy the smaller one. Looking at the 1528x1236. Smaller one is 1328x1236.

Ive got the tradie rack and to position it you can just slide it up and down the channel rails, has heaps of forward back adjustment

fracturedranga wrote:Ive got the tradie rack and to position it you can just slide it up and down the channel rails, has heaps of forward back adjustment

So the legs don't have to move? They can stay still?

Thats right Jaydo. Legs stay in same place if you cut and fit the factory rubber strips in the track. You just need to rivet the cross bar on the pioneer rack in the right place. I had the same setup on my old and now in new rig. Pics of both in my shed. You could move the legs if you wanted to but the rubber strips will need to come out.

DeadlyBeast wrote:Thats right Jaydo. Legs stay in same place if you cut and fit the factory rubber strips in the track. You just need to rivet the cross bar on the pioneer rack in the right place. I had the same setup on my old and now in new rig. Pics of both in my shed. You could move the legs if you wanted to but the rubber strips will need to come out.

Ah alright, cool beans. Thanks mate. Might go buy myself a christmas present. Apparently 20% off down the road.

20% sounds like a great deal - enjoy the shopping
BTW, I have the full sized rack.

DeadlyBeast wrote:20% sounds like a great deal - enjoy the shopping
BTW, I have the full sized rack.

Yeah, thats what I said! haha.

Ah sweet as. Looks good. Will go down and talk to the bloke. I guess worst case scenario I don't buy it and I get my secondary fuel tank

Going on a bit of a long shot here but I'm gonna try anyway. About 3-6 months ago I noticed an ad in the For Sale sign on newhilux. I really liked the idea and I'm going to try and replicate it now if possible. It was a rack that held the roof top tent on top of it and the fellow had his spare mounted underneath the frame. For memory, I think his sat in line with the cab, however I will need mine slightly higher due to my tub rack I already have.

My question is (or if the person who had it for sale reads this) - does anyone have anything like this or have a picture of that rack that was for sale. Want to make it easier for the guy making the frame for me. He has a good idea of what I want, but just want to clarify with him that we are both on the same page! TIA

I have the domin8r winch installed in my car and I've mounted the control box behind the grill. Because its in a really hard to reach spot its a bit annoying to take the wireless control head and the wired connection in and out all the time. I decided to leave my wireless head in all the time so I can start winching whenever I need. However, After leaving it in constantly, I've had to replace it twice now because it has stopped working and getting the wired connection in is a mission. I have been thinking about switching the control box to one of the Runva ones that have the wireless unit inside the actual control box. Does anyone know if it is possible to swap the control boxes and for the winch to run as per usual?

If not, I will need to find a better solution to fixing the winch.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

Yep you should be able to run any controllers they are just big switches just make sure its current carrying capacity is the same or higher. As for your problem why not just run in cab controls? Its easy to do and saves having to get out of the car at all ( as long as you have a well trained winch bitch )

fracturedranga wrote:Yep you should be able to run any controllers they are just big switches just make sure its current carrying capacity is the same or higher. As for your problem why not just run in cab controls? Its easy to do and saves having to get out of the car at all ( as long as you have a well trained winch bitch )

Yeah, I have thought about running in cab controls, however, I have been in a few sticky situations where I'm glad i've had someone outside the car controlling the winch while trying to recover myself. Another set of eyes is always handy haha.

Thanks for the info though on the controllers!

You can always tap your cab control wires into the hand controller plug socket on the inside of the winch control box housing (if that makes sense)? Then you can still plug your controller in and use it from outside, yet still have in cab controls hard wired in. Had this set up in my cruiser, worked sweet!


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