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Parr wrote:They are some loooooong radius arms, should flex nice! how far forward are you going with the front diff?

i think its 2-3 inchs forward, the mounts are near the tcase cross member, the diff should be under the car by the end of the week

soooo may have hit a lil snag, i got a lefty from inchworm, turns out the clockable plate is between the tcases, so to rotate the case to the right, means the rear t-case is 90 degrees out, ie the top shift is now at the side n drain n fill is all messed up, so if i cant get a right hand drop, plan b is to re-drill the front output shaft (lefty) plate and make a right.

any other ideas

Just to confirm.....

you didnt clock the crawler box right?

Its only the rear case that gets clocked, not the front one.

Plus the Lefty is already clocked about 10 degrees or so.

Theres a clocking ring inbetween the rear of the crawlbox and front of Lefty in your case.....

got pics?

Heres a writeup by Wyatt on how to clock the rear chain case with a Marlin Crawler fitted. It "may" help you work out your difficulty -

http://www.rocksolidtoys.com/forum/showthread.php?t=300

[QUOTE=Wyatt;5328]OK Lets see here.

Here is that rear clocking ring that s bolted to the rear of the Marlin Crawler box. As you can see there are a number of holes in it to allow you to turn it and bolt it down, thus "clocking" the rear case.


This is the rear of the crawler. If you look closley you can see that near some of the holes there is a "0" stamped there. That 0 represents 0 degrees of rotation of the t case. At the top of the crawler you can see a line scribed into it. That line will cooraspond with a degree indicator on the clocking ring letting you know how much you have your t case rotated.


You can clock in 5 degree increments.


When you bolt the clocking ring to the back of the crawler you'll have numbers near the holes. Those numbers cooraspond with the amount of degrees you'll have the t case rotated. As you can see this t case will have 0 degrees of rotation when it is bolted to the crawler.



There are only four bolts that hold the clocking ring to the back of the crawler. Make sure that you put ultra grey on the ring before you bolt it to the crawler and then you'll need to seal the mating surface of the t case to crawler as well.


Then you just bolt the t case back to the crawler after you have pounded the crap out of your floor with a big hammer to clear the case, modify your stick/sticks because they will be in a different location now and away you go. Simple really. bouncestirtepotpopcorn2[/QUOTE]

Let me know how you go......

Furthermore on this, for whats its worth, some older setups (I dont know if Inchworm still uses this setup), but on the older ones they used to have the clocking ring at the front, so in between the rear of the transmission and front of the actual crawlbox itself, so you would clock both the crawlbox and lefty in your case at the same time together.

from what you described it sounds like this may be the case.

the later model designs brought out by Marlin have the clocking ring at the rear of the crawlbox, between it and the factory transfercase.

the current Marlin clocking ring also allows a full 360degrees of clocking, should you want or need that much, the options are there.

Let us know how you go.

yes the front case can be clocked in relation to the lefty, i need to clock the billet rear piece to make it a righty

Ah. So your front diff requires a right hand dropped output from the transfer case is that correct?

Why did you get a lefty if thats the caae. You should have just gotten a built standard hilux geared case with the 4.7s in it.

orginally i was going to do a diff flip, but i wanted to keep off the shelve parts, and i thought the lefty adapter itself was clockable as well, the fab guy is looking into re dilling the lefty adapter plate.

what model t case would these be based off in australia?

Whats being done about the sensors for abs?

using the patrol ones

jimmi wrote:using the patrol ones

So I assume the ring and sensor will give the same signal back as the toyota does?

in theory the ring and sensor are the same (hall effect sensor) wont know 100% tell i give it a crack, but i think scotmans one works so shouldnt be too hard, personally im not a fan of abs, so no loss if its not there.


on another note, if anyone wants just a lefty tcase i have one for sale, no speedo sensor, 5speed adapter or sticks, it has the 4.7 ratio in it, never used

Jimmi.....suggestion for you.

Chase up a previous Gen Hilux V6.

It has the same chain transfercase as the current hilux except it is right hand dropped to suit your front diff input.

These are strong as, only down side is you wont get the 4.7 gears in it, but it will get your vehicle going reasonably cheap and you can get a crawl box for it down the track or similar.

What are you chasing for the lefty?

Hilux Max wrote:Jimmi.....suggestion for you.

Chase up a previous Gen Hilux V6.

It has the same chain transfercase as the current hilux except it is right hand dropped to suit your front diff input.

These are strong as, only down side is you wont get the 4.7 gears in it, but it will get your vehicle going reasonably cheap and you can get a crawl box for it down the track or similar.

What are you chasing for the lefty?

Max is the previous gen V6 transfer a direct bolt up part to the current gearbox to get a right hand drop? and are the mountings on the back of the gear box the same for auto and manual? I think the d4d manual box is the same as the old surf's, is that correct?
Sorry for the thread hi jack.

Yes. Both run R150F's. So you dont have to flip the front diff housing or use a custom one, you can run 80 series or patrol which are RH drop outputs.

Heres a pic of one for reference -

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-Hilux-4x4-transfer-case-manual-shift-chain-drive-R150F-AB8010-/171103296766#ht_630wt_716



Thats a VZN 167 model with R150F gearbox.

Sorry for the Hijack/offtopic slightly Jimmi.

its all good, im getting a right hand drop with 4.7 from inchworm, most of the bits are covered by there life time warranty.
it will take 2 weeks, and im going to Hawaii for honeymoon so not too worried bout the delay atm

Just for the record, would that inchworm 4.7 lefty bolt straight up to a manual hilux? Or do ya have to mod crossmembers and the likes? I think low range in our lux's is way too fast personally.

Yep. You'd think so but as Scottsr20 found out when he tried to install his Marlin Lefty it needed a couple extra modifications.

Hilux Max wrote:Yep. You'd think so but as Scottsr20 found out when he tried to install his Marlin Lefty it needed a couple extra modifications.

Ah bummer, was reading his "3 easy steps" thread and I reckon it's a bit beyond me haha, thought they mighta fixed the design by now...