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Here are some pics of the SAS Conversion, GU Patrol diff, inchworm dual tcase

Nice.

Looking forward to this coming together.

specs? details?

what final ride height? tyre size? diff ratios etc etc etc

Hilux Max wrote:Nice.

Looking forward to this coming together.

specs? details?

what final ride height? tyre size? diff ratios etc etc etc

X2 ??

gu diff, large housing rear, locked & laminated, 4.375 ratio.
i already have the body lift, 2"
35" tyres (thinking of goin back to maxxis)
fox shocks
front/rear swaybar
should be about a 4" suspention lift and 14" of travel, depends on how much the guards need trimming, may have to raise it a lil more

Sounds good mate

Can't wait to watch this truck transform!!
Keep the pics coming!!

This is getting done buy Big O isn't it? may I ask why the large rear patrol diff?

Parr wrote:This is getting done buy Big O isn't it? may I ask why the large rear patrol diff?

I was thinking the same thing. Unless your gonna be running 37" + your loosing ground clearance and the smaller diff is strong enough for 35's.

Hilux Max wrote:

Parr wrote:This is getting done buy Big O isn't it? may I ask why the large rear patrol diff?

I was thinking the same thing. Unless your gonna be running 37" + your loosing ground clearance and the smaller diff is strong enough for 35's.

the smaller rear diff is plenty strong for 37's the only reasons I can think to run the large one is for ridiculous HP, towing heavy loads or for anchoring the truck on rutts.

Neat job, Big O does fantastic work, are you cutting the shocks through the tub and into the engine buy to fit 14" foxes?

What front and rear sway bar are you going with?

Why not just run a rear anti rock sway bar, it limits the body roll on road and off road travel isn't compromised and still keeps body roll in tact forcing the rear to follow the front?

the larg diff will be shaved, and dual tcase puts alot of stress on the diffs.
the shock im unsure atm of mounting but i think there just allowing 7-10 up and the rest in droop.
the sway bar is a gu one i think, but with extended arms and disconnects

jimmi wrote: and dual tcase puts alot of stress on the diffs.

Only if you drive it like a Patrol driver.

With duals locked in, you will only ever be crawling, any hint of stomping on the gas pedal in compound low will see you picking up bits of alloy and steel under your vehicle.

She will demand respect from you or your pocket will pay for it.

My understanding was going with crawler gears when running bigger rubber would actually save drive-train components as most breakages came from trying to move larger/heavier wheels and being unable to do so i.e coming up against an obstacle or lifting a wheel and coming down hard whilst the wheel was spinning

?

banksy83 wrote:My understanding was going with crawler gears when running bigger rubber would actually save drive-train components as most breakages came from trying to move larger/heavier wheels and being unable to do so i.e coming up against an obstacle or lifting a wheel and coming down hard whilst the wheel was spinning

?

the torque is multiplied astronomically threw crawler gears so its easy to break stuff

banksy83 wrote:My understanding was going with crawler gears when running bigger rubber would actually save drive-train components as most breakages came from trying to move larger/heavier wheels and being unable to do so i.e coming up against an obstacle or lifting a wheel and coming down hard whilst the wheel was spinning

?

Exactly what Parr said. You do not need to use the accelerator at all in most cases when selecting the appropriate gear.

There is enough torque being put through the drivetrain to power you up and over or down any obstacle as long as you have traction.

This saves the drivetrain from undue stresses as you are not accelerating and tackling things "at speed" which is where damage gets done, and the risk of accidents on the track can occur.

Complete Control.


Jimmi, have you or are you going to upgrade your brakes?


You'll find in compound low your brake are nowhere near strong enough to hold the vehicle back. You have to get used to putting int nuetral at same time as braking.

just using patrol brakes, front and rear disc, but i wouldn't use compound low for descents as it can easily rev the engine to pieces, just use 4.7 ratio. the handbrake will be upgraded to a disc brake
http://www.locktup4x4.com.au/blog/dual-transfer-cases-building-the-crawl-box/
some calculations and examples of torque multiplication

You wont rev the engine to pieces in compund low for descents. the engine idles the whole time, the gearing holds it back and slows it down giving you control.

Just be careful with steep "wet" descents, as going too slow at times the back end can start to twitch around requiring you to accelerate to straight up.

Make sure also your stopped and in nuetral when changing gears/selecting Crawl box. they dont shift on the fly.

just got back from overseas, there was a river crossing, that the older trucks needed to use low range to haul up the other side, the dynatard failed, spun the conrods loose, yes it was an 8t truck, but same principle, i remember reading on the marlin forum, i think, he spun a tacoma apart.
Changing range is the same as the rovers at work, and i've had a mq patrol too.

Any updates on this bud??

the leading arms are back in the shop, and the double skin 4 link rear, they should be bolting it all in this week, still a couple of weeks worth of work to go

They are some loooooong radius arms, should flex nice! how far forward are you going with the front diff?