DB's Cage Canopy Build

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Re: DB's CSR Trip

Postby hartster on Sat, 21 Oct 2017 6:41 +0000

storm450 wrote:Vehicle carrying capacity in my book is a lot like tow ratings. Just because you legally can, doesn't mean you should when off-road. I am from the country and until I joined this website had never heard off a broken chassis and we quite often overload utes with firefighters and a lot of patrols around here have the coils replaced with airbags. We don't break them because we don't drive fast offroad. I wouldn't tow 3T on a rough road at any speed and I wouldn't put a ton in the tray either on a rough track. If you want to do that buy a truck.


Mate, you might have the wrong end of the stick. The airbags being discussed are the ones placed between the chassis and the axle, creating an additional pivot point on the chassis that wasn't there before. These arent the type of airbags that augment the springs, thats a different product altogether.
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Re: DB's CSR Trip

Postby storm450 on Sat, 21 Oct 2017 7:11 +0000

Do you mean a coil spring and a separate airbag. Never seen that! Only ever seen people replace the coil with an airbag or those red ones that go inside the coil.
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Re: DB's CSR Trip

Postby hartster on Sun, 22 Oct 2017 5:46 +0000

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Re: DB's CSR Trip

Postby DeadlyBeast on Tue, 24 Oct 2017 8:31 +0000

Hahaha! that went off on a tangent. All good guys - great to read experience and knowledge of those who have seen what these tracks can do to vehicles. Good to share these anecdotes - I've learnt a stack from this forum and from observing things out on the tracks


The rest of the trip was largely highway so wont bore with those pics.
The Prado and the Hilux were looking good on the home straight
The Prado nearly made it home... 100km short of town it lost all power.
Bugger - it was pretty hot out there and everyone was looking forward to a good sleep in a comfy bed that night

I had my laptop and techstream with me so hooked it up for a diagnostic.
All sorts of codes ranging from P0400 EGR, P0607 Control module to cruise control.
It had recently had an EGR blank installed so cleared that code.
Still wouldnt start :?

Jumped under the bonnet and did the fuel, air, spark method of elimination
Determined it was a fuel issue - the fuel filter primer was soft and getting softer.
The fuel filter looked like it hadnt been replaced for 5 years but had worked well until it suddenly stopped.

The driver then said it had been difficult to fill - taking a long time to fill and then not able to fill completely at the last bowser. Aha! I thought - tank breather. Remembering how clogged my old 2017 breather had gotten

Jumped under the back and found the breather in the condition I thought it would be - sure enough chocked full of red dust and diesel soaked oily crud. The breather valve on the 120 is the same as the n70 hilux.
This is a clean breather on top of the hilux tank - I relocated this on my hilux to the engine bay.
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Stupid place to put it - the Prado is the same deal at the back exposed to dust and water only about 500mm off the ground
Got the remaining Brit Brother to clean it out. "its still blocked" he said. I suggested he give it a blow - "nah, still blocked" I then suggested :? "see if you can suck it out" ...
"Ohh SH!T, paah, pah, pfpfppff paah!"
Had to laugh :lol: - "taste any diesel?" I enquired. Yeah - "diesel and dirt" he muttered looking hot and pissed off :x

Having cleared the breather and reinstalling the primer was still soft. No fuel coming to the party :(
It was getting too hot and late in the day to be pulling off tank stone gaurds to look at fuel lines etc so it was decided that the prado crew would stay the night there and wait for a tow truck in the morning.

Was disappointing getting so far to pull up 100km short but it could have been much worse - a common theme for the trip. I got back to town and made sure the towy would get out there in the morning.

Apparently when the prado was pulled up on the back of the tray diff oil started leaking :shock:
What ever the problem was it cost the said owner $900 excluding tow - must have been crud in the tank too??
The prado had been given a good amount of work before the trip-:2 new cv's, new radiator, alternator, turbo, water pump, egr clean and service. Seems as though the lady owner may have been taken advantage of ...
When I cleaned out my air filter on the track I offered to clean out the Prado and 76 filters. The V8's filter was clean as a whistle but the Prado filter was clogged full of leaves, twigs, moths, dust etc. Hadnt been cleaned in over a year or more by the looks. Prado occupants complained of weak aircon - same deal with that filter :x
2 separate mechanics/workshops gave it a "thorough" inspection. They failed to spot the leaking CV with a cable tie holding it while on the hoist - I noticed it in 10 secs by bending my knee while it was on the ground.
Anyway - just goes to show how important it is to know your own vehicle


So what would I do differently/ what did I learn from this trip?
- Go over the vehicle and tighten/loctite absolutely any and every non-standard accessory. Even nylocs come loose
- If I had of known how much the dash was going to rattle I would have looked at the windscreen plenum/ glovebox ECU
- Place a reminder on dash board to switch off traction/stability control after each stop - wasted a lot of fuel on the dunes
- Take a little less water - most of the wells at the Southern end of the track had good water even in September
- Cook up more cryovac meals - they are so quick, tasty, convenient and a god send on the track when tired
- Dont be a tight arse, buy a decent camera!
- Sort out those squeaky brakes before the trip - they wont get any better on the CSR
- If there wasnt a time pressure: take at least 3 weeks on the track, slow down and enjoy the small things more often
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Re: DB's CSR Trip

Postby TOYZX on Wed, 25 Oct 2017 3:56 +0000

Excellent job... your a lucky man!

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Re: DB's CSR Trip

Postby hartster on Wed, 25 Oct 2017 3:37 +0000

Sorry about the tangent, my fault...

Loved the final part of the write up. Some very good advice in that. The Prado gang were very very lucky by the sounds of things :shock:
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Re: DB's CSR Trip

Postby DeadlyBeast on Thu, 26 Oct 2017 7:41 +0000

No worries mate :lol:
Was interesting inspecting wrecks we saw on the Canning and figuring out what went wrong.
Yeah - that Prado got 75% of the work done it needed. Its had a hard life with tall the track work its done

Speaking of which - I got around to figuring out if the CSR had made my brake squeal worse or not.
There was also a strange noise when the foot brake was released - can only describe as a sound like a weak mid-high note on a harmonica being exhaled. This note was more annoying than the brake application squeal.

Backed off the adjusting wheel, gave it a few whacks with a sledge but still had to crack it with a couple 8mm bolts
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I had taken the drums off when new, removed the paper gasket and gave the hub and drum mounting faces a spray with a clear primer to prevent rust weld. It looks like it did the trick - not much rust but a lot of dust
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No sand in there but a lot of very fine dust build up that collecting on top of the shoes.
It was like there was a binding agent in the dust preventing it from clearing. Perhaps just the brake pad compoud

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Gave it a good spray with CT18, washed it off, preped and painted the mounting face
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A few spots of cooper eaze. This should stop that harmonic foot brake release noise. The original blue grease was dry
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Had never taken off drum shoes before - bloody fiddly for a numpty
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The drums had quite a lip - this is before 40K. I thought surely shouldn't need to be turned at this stage
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Turns out the lip was a combination of dust and rust. Took a bit of 150 grit wet and dry then some 3m abrasive pad to bring the lip down to next to no difference from the shoe track
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Gave the drum a good clean up and a shot of rust guard. Will see how this works out next time the drums come off.
Its not a high temp paint but I dont think these drums get all that hot. Time will tell
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No - the Canning didnt make the brakes 'worse' .
Just highlighted how brake maintenance is just as important as any other maintenance schedule and should be done before trip if due.
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All back together. No more brake squeal and no lonely cowboy around the camp fire to be heard
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Re: DB's CSR Trip

Postby hartster on Thu, 26 Oct 2017 9:56 +0000

Never in the history of Hilux has a well used rear brake assembly looked so tidy!
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Re: DB's CSR Trip

Postby Brondonnnn on Fri, 27 Oct 2017 6:52 +0000

hartster wrote:Never in the history of Hilux has a well used rear brake assembly looked so tidy!


Second that!!
I’m green with envy..

Thanks a lot for all the pictures and end tips!
Definitely well worth checking and tightening every nut and hose before these trips I’ve learnt this the hard way..
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Re: DB's WARNING Winch Rebuild

Postby DeadlyBeast on Sat, 18 Nov 2017 6:52 +0000

Haha - get your drums off guys.
Just a good wash and scrub, and high temp re-grease on the backing plate of the will do wonders 8-)

So with the off season here its time to see how things are looking in the dreaded warn winch
The winch is about 5 years old - never been apart before, been thru plenty of water and dust but otherwise hardly used.
Never been submerged in mud or salt water but immersed in fresh water many times
The motor has the drain hole on the bottom of the housing open as per Warn recommended orientation

Click for full picture
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Some light rust on the torx bolts and some corrosion peaking thru on the motor end cap

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Light corrosion on the zinc plated bush holders and surface rust on the motor housing - mostly under the gasket

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Spot the problem here - all fixture hardware has been removed. Good of Warn to throw in a spare :roll: :lol:
Some minor chips on the enamel coating of the stator windings - fortunately nothing more. Easy fix

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Aluminium End Cap full of corrosion

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No sign of water ingress here

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Or here. Seals intact

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Im guessing because this hasnt seen any mud and always submerged in clean water the seals have not been damaged protecting the gears from water ingress

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Very light surface rust on winch drum and bugger all in the brake assembly

Nothing like the horrific images of rusted gears you see on the net but not great in the motor housing.
The water ingress thru the bottom is inevitable with this configuration but allows draining and ventilation.
Pros and cons

I have a fix in mind
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Re: DB's WARNING Winch Rebuild

Postby DrewXT on Sat, 18 Nov 2017 8:29 +0000

Why not add a breather to where the drain hole is?

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Re: DB's WARNING Winch Rebuild

Postby DeadlyBeast on Sun, 19 Nov 2017 7:50 +0000

I'll be drill & tapping a breather and blocking up the drain hole - unless I connect the breather to my compressor...

The paint work on the winch is rubbish. It wouldnt have taken much to paint the inside of the housing :roll:
It appears Warn didnt etch the aluminium end cap - half the paint flaking off

Gave the ally end cap an acid wash inside and out
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Gave it a sanding, etch primer and a couple top coats
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Sanded the inside, treated with rust converter then a couple coats of rust guard
Black first coat then machine grey
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Same treatment for the torx heads
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Re: DB's WARNING Winch Rebuild

Postby TOYZX on Mon, 20 Nov 2017 4:39 +0000

DB maybe you should be building these things for warn, they mite actually last and be worth the money they charge if the built them like this! Nice work!

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Re: DB's WARNING Winch Rebuild

Postby martynvella on Mon, 20 Nov 2017 5:57 +0000

If you have gone that far you should knock the pole shoes out and check for corosion between them and the field insulation, even give them a clean and coat of good inhibiting paint, but not the surface that mates with the case. Check the coil insulation for deteriation and ensure they are held firm with no movement possible. They are a common point of failure since manufacture went outside the US.
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Re: DB's WARNING Winch Rebuild

Postby DeadlyBeast on Mon, 20 Nov 2017 12:28 +0000

Thanks Toyzx - everything else being built in China now. Wanted a reliable winch but it appears Warn have done all they can to cut production costs, reduce labour costs and still charge the same US $

Thanks Marty - just the information and experience I need.
I may put up a pic or two to clarify what /where the field insulation is - is that the yellow tape in one of the pics above or the green paper like lining?

Can the mating surface between shoes and case be cleaned up to bare/clean metal then lightly coated to di-electric grease to prevent corrosion?
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Re: DB's WARNING Winch Rebuild

Postby martynvella on Mon, 20 Nov 2017 3:21 +0000

Thin coat shouldnt make a lot of difference but in theory will make some. And yes the yellow varnish coated cotton coil insulation will rub through with movement.
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Re: DB's WARNING Winch Rebuild

Postby DeadlyBeast on Fri, 24 Nov 2017 7:07 +0000

Had to buy a T50 /Torx bit to remove the pole shoes
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Re: DB's WARNING Winch Rebuild

Postby DeadlyBeast on Wed, 29 Nov 2017 7:45 +0000

Having worked on and off this for a while now it appears Warn have adopted the planed obsolescence production model
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Re: DB's WARNING Winch Rebuild

Postby DeadlyBeast on Sat, 02 Dec 2017 12:38 +0000

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Re: DB's WARNING Winch Rebuild

Postby Critter350 on Mon, 04 Dec 2017 7:46 +0000

That’s looking the goods DB, should last forever.


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