DB's build

[DeadlyBeast]

HA! Armour plating
Nah mate - under no false illusions there.
I'd be doing something very wrong if when I take of the solar panel to find dents and 'pins stripes under there though
The vinyl has held up very well to pin stripes so far - I am surprised just how tough it is
As for the dents on other panels - thats what PDR kits are for

[DeadlyBeast]

Heat sucks. It sucks economy and power.
Am thinking of installing a FMI however thought I would get some baseline readings to gauge where the heat is

Car had been taken up to operational temperature after a good drive then left at idle under full shade cover
Ambient temp around 30 degrees
Emissivity 0.83
Temperate and colour scale adjusted to optimal visual discrepancy range in each image
Limitation - Unable to take images while under load/driving for obvious reasons





After 10 minutes idle with heat soak the TMI appears to reduce temp by around 7 degrees.





Intercooler outlet heat affected by exhaust manifold the closer it gets to turbo
Uncertain if there's significant effect on internal gas temperatures but additional heat shielding to the outlet would minimise any heat soak

[TOYZX]

Nice work mate! I wonder if it would be worthwhile using an exhaust wrap from the turbo outlet up to the intercooler??

Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk

[Talktheroo]

You can service intercoolers. Top mounted are pretty easy. How are you guys, anyway?
The Roo.

[DeadlyBeast]

Nice work mate! I wonder if it would be worthwhile using an exhaust wrap from the turbo outlet up to the intercooler??

Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk

I reckon it couldnt hurt mate
Im not a trained flir operator - many things to factor in when operating and interpreting these images.
I reduced the emessivity of that outlet during post processing as it has a more reflective surface than the interccoler core. That resulted in an even higher temp reading.
Ceramic coating of the exhaust manifold would be the ultimate solution.

All good thanks Roo. The top mount is doing as well as it should be but im planning on doing slow tracks this year.
Fuel efficiency is the priority
Thinking of a FMI.

[Dylan 191]

Hey mate how are the Radflo's holding up ?
Are they just the standard ones or are there a few different types ?

Cheers
Dylan

[DeadlyBeast]

Barely done done any off road km yet mate.
The fun tracks are still closed after a big wet - opening soon
Yep - huge range to choose from - I went non-remote res for simplicity/reliability
Will report back in a few months.

Preping for the dry season
Started with a steering fluid flush - after just 2.5 years...


Jar on the right was sucked out after 1L flush
Topped again - good to go a couple more seasons

[Dylan 191]

Thanks mate

[Milloy]

Hey mate, I have been wanting to stick my flexible solar panel to the cab to make some room on my canopy roof rack and see you have done this, would be great if you could give me some info please.

I don't want to stick it to the roof and have a mess or loose paint if I have to remove it (sell the ute or replace the panel down the track) do you know of a good adhesive that will hold it down but remove if I ever needed to?

I also like the idea of using vinyl wrap then sticking it to that, looks like you have done this too, does the adhesisive bond to that ok? Looking at the dates on the posts it's only been there a month or so, is it still holding on ok? The panel and the vinyl wrap? If I did it this way would this vinyl wrap be suitable?
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/322198408627 And what adhesive for the panel would you recommend if so?

Cheers
Chris

[DeadlyBeast]

Hi Chris. The vinyl wrap needs to state that it us removable. Preferably up to 5 years.
This is an experiment - i dont know how long it will hold for but has held thru the wet season and the heat. Been on there a few months now - just slow to post on this site.

You need to clean all surfaces thoroughly then clean with rubbing alcohol including the top side of the vinyl you want to glue the panel to.

Lots of adhesive glues you could use. I dont know what is the best. As long as it is UV resistant and flexible you should be right.
I will try the wurth product Toyzx mentioned on the previous page next time.
The sikaflex i used is good but difficult to make a clean finish in the heat : was fast curing .

[Milloy]

Thanks for the information, that's a great help, no vinyls I come across state they are removable, only that they are good up to 5 years with external use so I guess that implies that it would need to be removed at that point. You wouldn't mind letting me know where you purchased your vinyl from by any chance?

[DeadlyBeast]

Thanks for the information, that's a great help, no vinyls I come across state they are removable, only that they are good up to 5 years with external use so I guess that implies that it would need to be removed at that point. You wouldn't mind letting me know where you purchased your vinyl from by any chance?

Yep - fair enough assumption
I got mine from vinyl-giant in the US. Was more than twice as cheap than AU supplier to import even after freight and taxes.
I would just go local if just getting a couple metres though

[DeadlyBeast]

Heres trouble

Under load


At full extension



Cleaning it up identified the problem

[TOYZX]

Bit close for comfort bro!

Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk

[oggy]

Can you move the bottom of the strut 5mm forward using different spacers? Or is this not possible....Bit annoying as i am considering the Radfo's as well

[DeadlyBeast]

Spewing I didnt notice the extended clearance (lack there of) when installing.

Looked good when supported by the jack



Yeah Oggy - everything is fully customised/made to order.
The idea of the larger offset spacer at the front of the strut is so that it dosent foul on the sway bar.
It needs to be set forward about 2-3mm - a new set of spacers will fix this


Has anyone ever noticed a different Toyota OEM CV boot clamp design?

Every hilux that I've seen including my '07 uses the same ear style cv boot clamps... as do Prados, Land Cruisers, FJ's, Tocomas, Tundras... you get the idea

[oggy]

Get some MR sway bar relocate brackets and swap the bushes at the bottom of the strut around

[DeadlyBeast]

Yeah mate - wish it was that simple.

The Radflo kit comes with sway bar relocators if you dont have them - I already had the MR brackets installed.
Swapping the bushes around will most likely cause sway bar fouling... then again worth looking at
Supplier has offered to have new bush set fabricated among other options

I've bought new OEM boot clamps yesterday.
Now I gotta clean the grease off from under the boot otherwise the clamp will fail again

Any tips how to get the grease off from under the clamp area without completely removing or wrecking the boot welcomed

[DeadlyBeast]

Well it gets worse
Took a closer look at coils for any other wear marks yesterday
The ABS line has been severed on drivers side and nipped on the passenger side. FFS!
This indicates that the coil is bulging out of a straight helix as there is plenty of clearance when not compressed

Pinched between ABS bracket and coil - both pics are drivers side below



And better still - the sway bar showing signs of rubbing the passenger side coil


Good news is new spacers have been sent moving the lower strut mount forward 3mm
BUT - If I want to go off road I will need to remove the sway bar so that doesnt hit

I knew it was a risk trying a different suspension but didnt expect this
All this damage done after 10 minutes on a sand track - no rocks or anything requiring low range
So there you go - those thinking of going down this route be warned

[oggy]

bugger