DB's build

[TOYZX]

Nice one mate!

[DeadlyBeast]

Western Filters provent kit
Stainless bracket needed spacing, return hose was too short, weak oil collection hose. Turned an easy job into a PITA

20150127_111052 (Small).jpg

Ran for a couple thousand km - at least its doing its job

[DeadlyBeast]

[DeadlyBeast]

Transplanted 05-11 bar.
Required headlight infills to be cut off and part of bar to be cut out to accommodate headlights

Laid some old 3M EPDM D-shaped rubber along bar where headlight and radiator infills would position
Replaced with a new single length after cut and positioning finalised

Opted for OEM infills and flared winglets - $300 thanks
A lot of dicking around, cutting with dremmel to get them to fit. Needed about 10mm cut off
Both the infils and the winglets needed a lot taken out of the bottom of them to allow grille, headlight and bar clearance



In hindsight I should have just paid the $200 for the weld-on the Axis infills - would have saved much time

Final result was tidy enough

[DeadlyBeast]

Picked this up earlier this year for $300

Just a little bit of pallet rash from transport
Nothing that a bit of duplicolour couldn't fix


First step is to pull out the inner guard liner to free the fuel release cable





Heat needed to remove the front mounting bolts - they are in a tight spot and on tight


Just 3 bolts each side, remove all wire harness plugs, filler cap off, filler neck blocked

[DeadlyBeast]

While the tub was off access to the diff breather, brakes lines and fuel tank breather was much easier.
Should install the extended brake lines before the suspension but things didn't work out that way after the first aftermarket lines sent were far too long.
This pic shows a temporary position of the Diff breather hose. It was pushed aside while installing the brake lines. The final position of the line runs along left chassis rail into engine bay.



Fuel tank breather literally sits on top of the tank under the cab. Far too low for any descent water crossing. No matter how good these breathers are, on a warm day they will suck water into the tank when crossing deep water. I took the breather off to discover it breathes both ways - easier for air to move into the tank rather than out.

thought about running it back up the tub between the cab


Then about extending it back up along the chassis rail and into a tail light void


Ended up attaching a new 5m length of 10mm fuel hose running it forward back thru original position (the narrow track on top of the tank filled with sand) then extending along the left chassis rail into the engine bay - no pic but it terminates behind the secondary fuel filter.

[Pommy]

Hey DB,
Awesome build so far. I'll be following this one for ideas on my 2014 SR5 auto. Could you tell me what height lift from ultimate you went and how it's going? Also is there a thread on here you followed to install your trans cooler? Does your scan gauge read tranny temps? Sorry for the bombardment of questions.
Cheers Pommy

[DeadlyBeast]

No worries Pom
This write up is a little retrospective from earlier this year - just getting round to uploading pics now.
The lift is somewhere between 2 and maybe 3" I told Brendan at Ultimate what bar work, accessories and rubber I was fitting, what I intended to use it for and he got the kit made up and sent out. The suspension is great after breaking it in on the tracks - faultless so far.
The below links are useful for installing a tranny cooler
http://www.newhilux.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=289
http://www.newhilux.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=3355
Yes - ScanGauge 2 does trans temp - just need to enter X-Gauge manually to set it up
http://www.newhilux.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=24436

[Talktheroo]

Ye, it's a credit to you, DB.
I did feel sorry for you with those stupid nuts that Toyota put on the exhaust studs that hold on the dump pipe on. They can be a big problem. The best tool to use on them is Inox and a six point socket so you don't round off the nut. It's a similar affair with the nuts on the exhaust manifold.
As you have got now, Copper Eze or similar is the go upon reassembly, on the studs.



Loose nut on a V6 exhaust.

catch you later, John.

[DeadlyBeast]

Haha, thanks John.
Lesson learnt on the old beasty there. Soon after that purchased a good 3/8 driver set and single hex impact driver sockets.
One of the first things I did on the new donk was to Copper Eze those exhaust and manifold nuts, bolts & studs - prevention so much easier than cure

[DeadlyBeast]

Got all the fiddly line work done then was time to get the new tub on


Prepared earlier


Scuffed with 3M scotchbrite pad to provide key and adhesion. Scuff right up to taped edges for a good line
Sealed up gaps - lots of gaps for shit to get stuck in under the bed corrugations. Big gaps for water and dust ingress thru those square port covers. Left the drain holes in each corner





Sprayed on RaptorLiner - reduced the pressure to get a higher build






Had some liner left over



Carboncar reverse camera just needed a little trimming on the mounting foot to fit in the factory hood housing


Camera wiring routed thru factory conduit


Located tub back over the filler neck


Reconnected cable release, Loctite mounting bolts, reconnected harnesses, cut rear apron to fit bumper.


The old '07 roll bar was much more solid than the newer one that came with the tub so wacked it on

[snakesoup]

hi mate, new tray looks tops!! what size tyres are you running there mate?

[DeadlyBeast]

Thanks ss
Daily runners - 245/75/17 BFG rugged terrains on FJ cruiser rims. Getting good economy from these
285/75/16 BFG AT KO2's on GU rims for the fun stuff
Throw up an intro mate - tell us a bit about your rig

[snakesoup]

ok nice one, how much does the economy differ between these two tyres ?
to be honest mate I'm still in the research stage and am yet to purchase a hilux!! currently driving an 2011 MN triton but from what I've been told the hilux would be a better vehicle overall than the triton?? looking at a 2012 or 13 model extra cab or dual cab still undecided

[DeadlyBeast]

No worries mate. Worth introducing yourself on your own intro thread nonetheless. Post up a pic of the triton and your convert thoughts there - you will most likely get more replies to queries from the gurus.
As for the economy comparo for the two tyre sizes - too hard to quantify as they are used for very different purposes.
Getting between 8.2L/100 unladen but with all bar work around town for the 245's
Did a recent trip fully loaded with the 285's - mixture of low range crawling, offroad tracks, highway etc 13L/100

[lincolnr86]

Hey there
Has anyone got a link or some info on hood damper install for a 06 hilux? It seems too simple to trust.. thanks

[DeadlyBeast]

So this was next



Temporarily reinstalled the inner splash guard using just one grommet, fit the 285's to figure out what needs to be cut...

[DeadlyBeast]

Cuts and bends to fit 285/75/16's, no body lift, Ulimate suspension lift, standard UCA's with offset bush, Utemart 160X40mm flares








Cut and rounded bottom of flare


Flares did not sit well down low. Fit a rubber nutsert into the factory panel clip hole.
Drilled a hole into the flare then fit a ss nut and washer

[Ben_holyman]

Hey mate great build, what do you think of the front flares ? Thinking of getting a set, just hoping they will be wide enough with 265/75r16's with -22 rims. Those bullbar fills look mint with that bar too !

[DeadlyBeast]

Hi Ben. These flares only just cover the 285's with a +10 offset rim. I will be adding some wheel arch rubber front and rear to extend width as this model flare isnt quite enough to stop mud/stone spray when slightly turning. Not a problem on the highway but not great when travelling gravel tracks at >80kph. At -22 your rear mudflaps might invite the boys in blue to have a chat with ya unless these are extended too.
Utemart do a wider 55mm flare that you may be interested in for your 2010 or you could just add rubber trim if needed..