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I'm using Valvoline super diesel. No issues so far, and I got it half price so at lease 2 more changes before looking at staying or changing oil.

Morning all. I'm going to change my front diff oil in the next couple of weeks. Need to get a new set of plugs first, thanks Roo for the tip. I'm looking at using Penrite oil for the front diff as it seems like better value than Castrol. Penrite recommend Transgear semi-synthetic 75w-90 for the front diff, but they don't list the fully synthetic Pro Gear 75w-90. Does anyone know if this is still a suitable oil for the front diff?

Also, does anyone use the dark red Wynns additive in their diffs/boxes? Any thoughts on it?

Cheers

PS - Just got another 20L of Caltex Delo Gold Ultra from my local distributor for $93.40. Happy with that.

PPS - So looking at the recommendations of the various oil companies, it seems like the easiest way to go is to put Penrite Trans Gear 75W-90 in the front diff, gear box and transfer case, and your LSD oil of choice in the read diff (Castrol LS90 for me). That seems to be the only way to get away with using just two types of oil on the drive train. That means carrying less lubricants when I'm out woop-woop, which is good. It also means I could potentially buy Trans Gear in 20L drums to make it more cost effective, if I can find a supplier...

Did all the oils today. The front diff filler is a bit of a doozy, but I got there.

Just a few tips for anyone tackling the oils for the first time.

I got this bad boy from SCA the other day. It was about $20. Getting the oil filter out with the second battery in place is nearly impossible. This thingo tightens and grips as you turn it with a 3/8 long extension and ratchet. Worked well for me. I'd be interested to see how it would go if the filter was on super tight.





For the front diff filler plug I cut the end off a 10mm hex/alan key and used a 10mm socket to turn it. I used a 150mm extension bar and I could just get the 3/8 ratchet onto it. I had to put some pipe over the ratchet handle to crack the plug.





I have one of these but it's 1/2 inch drive and is just too big to get in there.


For the g/box, transfer and rear diff, these are my weapons of choice. You've gotta be careful because the plug heads are shallow, soft and easy to round, especially if they are tight. I ground the lip off my 24mm socket to ensure it gets right down onto the plug heads. I use the combination spanner to re-tighten to ensure I don't make them too tight. The gear box plugs are hard to get at with the socket, too, so I use the combination spanner instead.

Filter puller looks a bit primitive but hey, if it works! Toyota do the genuine one (like a big socket) for about $40 so this is also an option... works great and no chance of butchering the filter and you get it out from the top just like the one above. Ingenuity here for your other tools tho, there are 10mm hex allen key socket (wow what a mouthful) which is like the one in your photo but shorter (looks like the one you made).

Good job wombat, just shows that necessity is the mother of invention

my 2 cents worth regarding oil filters
i buy K&N filters they come with a nut welded to top very easy to get on and off cost me $18
http://kn-performance-filters.com/perfo ... ilters.htm
K&N HP-1002 Oil Filter model that fits kun26r
saves buying any tools

Hi All

I had nearly finished my 40000km service today had done...

1. Engine Oil and Filter
2. Cleaned MAF Sensor
3. Changed Fuel Filter
4. Drained My Catch Can
5. Greased Driveline and check bolts and nuts for tightness
6. Replaced Rear Diff Oil
7. Replaced Gearbox Oil and added Nulon G70
8. Replaced Transfer Case Oil

Thought Getting through all this at a good pace then.........

That bloody front diff filler bolt.

It is obvious Toyota had a "Brain Fart" when putting the filler bolt where it sits.

Too many car brackets and beams sitting in front of the bolt.

Must of tried 5 different combinations of socket extensions and a hour of thinking and rounded it off real good.

Even with my Little Kinchrome 3/8 10mm Allen socket it can not get to it straight on.



I am lucky to even get my fingers near it



Now got to find that real sharp chisel and hammer to finish the service

Stupid Toyota

Cheers

Got 20L of Caltex Delo 400 Multigrade which is semi-synthetic, for $103 from my local distributor, and that's normal price. Great value considering the normal price of RX Super (usually $115-$120) which is mineral oil and not JASO compliant, I'd buy the Caltex all day.

I use 10W-40 Nulon full synthetic, comes in a 6L container. Been using it since 1000kM old. Just buy them in bulk when SCA or Repco have 25% off. Toyota says 10W-30 but need more when towing or heavy loaded or above 35degC ambient.

I went to a Toyota dealer today to get a 1l top up and they gave me Castrol Magnatec 5W 30 C2. Thats the right spec for us here in Europe but I read in the manual that they (seemingly strongly) advise to use Toyota Oil which is the same spec but with 1WW and 2WW (whatever that means).

Any thoughts on this?

Maybe the 1ww means winter weight? It does get below freezing there doesn't it? What does the handbook say for your temperature range? Just use semi synthetic or full synthetic in the range the handbook says.

Gipsy wrote:Maybe the 1ww means winter weight? It does get below freezing there doesn't it? What does the handbook say for your temperature range? Just use semi synthetic or full synthetic in the range the handbook says.

Thanks. Yes it gets below 0 during winter. I will sticking with the 5W 30 C2. I just haven't seen the 1WW before and wanted to get some clarity on that to see if it is something real or just a sales strategy from Toyota. I will report back if I find anything out.

Any quality 5w30 semi synthetic or synthetic oil will be ok then, Toyota uses whatever oil they get a good deal on here in Oz. Then they have it branded Toyota oil and charge extra for it.

Amazes me how many people have trouble with the front diff filler. Clean the key hole well and use a key that isnt worn helps a lot and when replacing it the first time use plenty of never sieze and dont over tighten it. The corrosion works its way in from the outside.

x2 about the clean hole and a good tool. the hex hole is about 1cm deep - if you are not going in that far then you still have to clean it.

martynvella wrote:Amazes me how many people have trouble with the front diff filler. Clean the key hole well and use a key that isnt worn helps a lot and when replacing it the first time use plenty of never sieze and dont over tighten it. The corrosion works its way in from the outside.

I think it's actually fitting a ratchet onto the end of the socket that is the challenge.

Just a normal allen key does the job for me. Sometimes I need an extension to undo it but definitely not to do it up.