NewHilux.net

man i still don't know if i should commit to fully synth oils for the engine... i run semi synth on every oil on the hilux (which doesn't bother me i don't see a need to run full synth on gb tc and diffs) but as far as engine goes i heard that they come from factory with fully synth in the engines.. i know of a few dealers that run it too.. do i change to fully synth or do i just stick to the semi synth?

i run the 5w/40 oil as well i heard its a better option to keep the engine quiet and in top condition until it gets older then maybe 15w 40

what oils are people using with lockers?? just 75w-90 or LSD oil?

i have a Elocker in front and a yukon grizzly in the rear.

I run RX super and do my oil and filter every 5,000km and air filter every 10,000km due to previous issue of the turbo sucking so hard it started pulling through the crank breather. I was told those distances by a turbo specialist in Melbourne even tho I thought it was time for a new turbo due to oil in the compressor side, but just blow by so now I've got a catch can to

picked up 20L of penrite hpr 5 diesel 5w/40 cheap, so will be using that for a bit in the engine

drive train always uses nulon 75w90 full synth

packeteer wrote:picked up 20L of penrite hpr 5 diesel 5w/40 cheap, so will be using that for a bit in the engine

drive train always uses nulon 75w90 full synth

Penrite great oil... where did you get it and how much??

SuperCheap had a sale on a few weeks back. iirc it was down to $70 for 10L. so I bought 2

Ahh... Thanks packeteer, I use supercheap penrite hpr 15w50 at about the same price, sometimes on special around $53 The 5w is more expensive but I don't go to cold temps (below freezing) so 15w is ok according to the manual.

It is a good oil and great value for a synthetic blend.

yeah, 15w is fine for the top half of the country

The only trips I'm likely to do in the next 12 months will involve cold weather, so 5w will suit better

jamesheadlam1 wrote:MADDOG wrote:
Just jumping on the end of this thread..........

I need to change my manual gearbox oil on my D4D. Does anyone know what size the drain plug is on the gearbox? I have a feeling it is 23mm or similar in imperial. I've just had a frustrating time not being able to find a spanner or socket bigger than 22mm at home. There is not enough room to fit a shifter in there.

Thanks in advance.

As a mechanic myself, I will admit I work on mainly trucks but please please please do not use a shifter. These are known as portable lathes! They are handy in the right situation but are perfect for creating a rounded off edge to the plug or bolt which you are tightening or loostening. Your better off using the right tool for the right job!
Different people swear by different oils, you can be pushed into buying over priced, under performing oil and filters, but if it is within the engine requirements (guidelines in manual or speak to toyota as to what may be suitable if you are concerned about it)as to what your local auto barn or auto pro etc is advising, you should be safe. If you know a Tradie, you may be able to get them to use a trade discount- they will know what is ment.
The company i work for uses fleetgaurd ( which has proven to me over years to be good quality)
Hope that's some helpful advice
Cheers

24mm James, for the rear differential, and the manual gearbox.
The front differential, 10mm hex key, and make it a good one, or you will be knocking out the filler plug with a cold chisel.
I actually have designed a special tool for removing these 10mm plugs, but it's still in the field testing process. It is looking very good, this tool I have designed with an engineer customer of mine.
The problem with the front differential housings in the Hiluxes and the Prados is that they only hold about 1.3L of gear oil.
The viscosity of the oil doesn't last very long with a small volume of gear oil in there. The hot and cold thing, James.
For this reason, I would recommend changing out the front differential gear oil every 20,000km intervals.
James, I use Penrite 80W-90, as you can use it in the rear differential, as well. Also, the gearbox and the transfer case.
One gear oil for everything.
I still like the Castrol EPX gear oil for the gearbox, with Nulon G70 added to the mix. Very smooth shifting, even when cold.





These front diff plugs are a bugger of a thing. That's being nice. I am always cold chiselling them out. Hopefully, not for much longer.
James, make sure you use the genuine seal washers on these two plugs when you are servicing front differentials on Landcruiser, late models, Hiluxes and Prados.
The torques values are as follows :
55Nms for the drain plug. That's my recommendation. 65Nms is to tight for this plug, which is Toyota's specification.
39Nms for the filler plug.
On the Hiluxes, I always take off the driver's side front wheel, and use a long 3/8" extension, with a 1/2" adapter attached, for the breaker bar. This is for the filler plug. I have never stripped out the 10mm hex area on a filler plug, as on the Hiluxes, I note, it would be a bitch to get out.
If you strip out the drain plug, don't worry, as it is a common problem. Just be careful that you don't go to deep with your cut into the drain plug with the cold chisel, as you will surely damage the differential housing.
Any sniff of damage to any of these plugs, please do yourself a favour, and replace it with a new plug.
You take off the drain plug from underneath the vehicle.
Hope this helps, the Roo.

Couldn't find the fill and drain bolts for a bit there was that much old oil covering them

First time changing front diff oil and it actually wasn't as hard as I expected. Thanks roo for the guides on torque. Few questions though:

There was a fair bit of filings on the magnet for the drain plug but the oil that came out was pretty clear. This normal?

Would using something like Copper Eze on the thread be beneficial or do damage?

Should washers be replaced every time the oil is changed? I was planning to replace but forgot to buy them and was already half way through before I realised.

Do you add Nulon G70 to diff oils Roo?


Thanks guys

We've been using Magnatec 15w40 in our 05 D4D with no problems but currently Magnatec 5W40 is on sale and cheaper than the 15W weight. Any problems using the lighter grade in SE QLD with a non dpf rig?

Odo is on about 170k and doesnt use any oil between 5k changes but even after new baileys injectors it can get a bit rattly after cold starts.

I'm not sure if their is a difference in soot handling between the 2, AFAIK the jap diesels dont like low ash oils??

I only use Penrite 15w-50 in mine, no issues using it on my 2000 model hilux

Maurice.. the 5w oil is ok according to the manual... the lower value is only better if you are in cold climate but would be fine in Qld. Lower values are better on start-up for circulating the oil quickly. hilux doesn't have a DPF.

AdamHC wrote:Couldn't find the fill and drain bolts for a bit there was that much old oil covering them

First time changing front diff oil and it actually wasn't as hard as I expected. Thanks roo for the guides on torque. Few questions though:

There was a fair bit of filings on the magnet for the drain plug but the oil that came out was pretty clear. This normal?

Would using something like Copper Eze on the thread be beneficial or do damage?

Should washers be replaced every time the oil is changed? I was planning to replace but forgot to buy them and was already half way through before I realised.

Do you add Nulon G70 to diff oils Roo?


Thanks guys

Yes to the G70.
I always replace the washers on both the filler and the drain plugs on the front diffs. Especially the drain plug.
The filings are pretty normal, on the magnet. No long filings, though.
I wouldn't put Copper Eze on the threads of a differential. You have the gear oil there, you see. Great for engine re-assembly, for all the bolts. Or almost anything else.
Good that you got that drain plug out on the front diff. I am always cold chiselling them out for people.
The Roo.

With an engineering mate of mine, we have just discovered that the drain plug 10mm hex area, going from one plug to another, are all different sizes. Some of them are not the true 10mm hex.
How's that for good practice manufacturing, not!
Hit and miss on an important part like that.
This explains why some front differential drain plugs are better than others. The hit and miss thing.
TMC, I don't know why you have dropped the ball on so many areas of manufacture. The quality thing. It's simply not fair to your customer base that buys these vehicles. Try cold chiselling one of these plugs out for yourselves, from a consumer point of view. Then you will know what I am talking about.
Disappointing discovery, TMC.
The Roo.

Very interesting Roo, can you put a pic up of your invention?
Id be keen to buy one mate.
Have you done a front diff oil change on a Hilux with Monster rides diff drop kit…
I use to love my 10mm Hex Socket - bugga.

Castrol 15W40 - Semi Synthetic (What I like)
Castrol 5W40 - Full Synthetic

In my opinion, the new age Full Synthetic oils have been designed for vehicle manufacturers pushing servicing intervals out 10,000km, 20,000km's + etc, These oils can withstand the longer change interval's and still protect the engines well.
At the end of the day its important to remember, whilst these newly developed Synthetic oils are top shelf, even a basic mineral oil regularly changed at 5000km's will do the same job extremely well.
Key Point - 5000km's change interval!

Good site this one.
http://www.datateck.com.au/Lube/PenriteAus/

My observations, Delo 400 turns black as soon as your engine reaches operating temp. It is meant too. 700, 000 klms of use in my 40 series almost exclusivley ,1engine refreshment at around 650, 000. The black is its detergent action . If you read the PDS from Caltex you will be enwhitened.

I only ever use Penrite 15w-50 in my hilux