NewHilux.net

What is the sequence to bleeding the brakes if there is one?..

Thanks.

I believe it is rear left, rear right, front left, front right and than proportioning valve. Anyone please correct me if I am wrong

Start from the furtherst from the master cylinder. So L/R, R/R, proportioning valve,L/F, R/F.

I id it in the correct sequence, air must be trapped in the abs.

Thanks for the quick replies [emoji106]

PRC13Y wrote:Start from the furtherst from the master cylinder. So L/R, R/R, proportioning valve,L/F, R/F.

This is my understanding also.

How do you go about getting air out of the ABS unit? does it have a bleed nipple?

It doesn't have a bleed nipple, I don't know? Bleed with the vehicle on or leave it over night and let gravity do the work?...

Vehicle off the pedal is rock hard, turn vehicle on and goes all spongy then fades to the floor.

You might be able to bleed the ABS by cracking the lines and bleeding as you would at the wheel. Sometimes air can be trapped at the master cylinder so you could try bleeding it in the same way, by cracking the lines from the master cylinder.

Let us know how you get on.

Cheers,

Chris.

You probably already have this Luke but for all the other bleeders...
All things brakey breaky:
http://www.moranbahweather.com/toyota/hilux/index2.html
Trouble shooting up top
Bleeding section near the middle "BRAKE" section
note: valid for models up to 08/08 but likely applicable to later models

I'll be picking up some more brake fluid after work and have another go at the master cylinder.

Got that workshop manual book marked but couldn't find a sequence?..

Bled the system again, checked twice and went over everything with no problems apart from I need a bigger bleeding bottle

Vehicle off, pedal is rock hard after two to three pumps and doesn't sink to the floor but soon as I turn it on pedal sinks about an inch instantly then goes firm and slowly sinks and stops just before the floor.

Its braking but the pedal feels shit and spongy, what can I do to shorten and create a firm instant braking?

Prado 150 series brake calipers
QFM HPX pads
DBA T3 4x4 338x32mm
Braided brakelines all round

I did have a dual diaphragm brake booster but it wasn't getting enough vaccum and went back to the standard one.

Maybe a master cylinder piston seal?

Is it drivable yet Luke? If it is drive it and try and get the ABS to cycle. This should bleed the pump. Or I don't know if the Toyotas computer can do it. I know with ford when you replace the ABS pump you have to hook the computer up and it cycles the pump to bleed it

Its driveable and brakes well just the pedal feels spongy and sinks when stopped at the lights or intersection for example.

Master cylinder leaking into the brake booster, its not much but a leak is a leak I guess...

I must not be creating enough pressure when the vehicle is off and when its on the master leaks [emoji107]

I seen something on techstream about bleeding brakes

What was it?

Only a newbie but I think is makes the abs pump work to pump fluid
need a techstream guru to help here!

Lets start fresh.
I can't see your vehicle details? Does it have traction control? I assume not.

If you have traction control leave the key turned on.

The best, simple way to bleed brakes for a brake fluid change is gravity bleed:

Suck out what u can from the master reservoir.
Refill with new fluid & open all 4
Watch level as it gets to low mark top up to full.
Continue UNTILL you see the clear fluid come out each one
Close them off as clean fluid comes through
Check & adjust level, done!

Be care full pumping pedal on older vehicles
Don't pump it past its normal travel
Or you may damage the seal pushing it past its normal travel
If you have problems after working on it? Tell us more?
You may need to do a big bleed.
It needs to be done right, you want to bleed the air out, the air wants to go up.
A tiny bit of air will give a poor pedal.
You need lots of fluid & 2 people working on the same page.
Or a good one man bleeder, one way valve.
Yes do the furthest first & it's usually a rear where the air gets caught up.

If you have properly bled it & no improvement & you have don't work on it & it's a few years old now you may have damaged the master, good news they are cheap & easy to fit. don't jump the gun it may not be that.

There is no need to I anything with the abs, if it has no traction control nothing is pumping.

It's hard to tell from here what your issues is, but there's the basics.

2012 SR Auto without VSC

I have bled the entire system three times now, first with the two man method and then myself the second and third time with a bottle and check valve. Have also bled the master cylinder, zero bubbles.

I pulled the master cylinder out of the booster, the diapraghm springs were coated in brake fluid.

Rock hard brake pedal with vehicle off, vehicle on the pedal sinks to floor which suggests the extra force created by the booster is causing the bore seal to fail and leak into the booster.

I am in the process of adjusting the booster pushrod back as I may have it adjusted incorrectly, lets hope this fixes the issue.

Toyota parts quoted me $780 for a master brake cylinder, ouch. There is one on ebay for $190 delivered but suspect it could be a fake? Seller hasn't responded to my messages.... Other alternative is to just replace the bore seal.

I have been told the master from bursons is $100-200 depending what price u get.

Cracked each brake nipple into a clear flexible hose with vehicle off not a single air bubble came out which confirms there is no leaks!

Vehicle off, hard as I can.

https://youtu.be/xel_ybuzpDI

Vehicle on

https://youtu.be/fLXTKknQCBA