NewHilux.net

Hi is there a repair manual or Workshop manual that has the procedure and specs for this type of work?

Just follow the roo's posts, you won't find a better description!

About to do this myself over the weekend and wondered if anyone had any tips on stopping the Cam shaft moving once you remove the pulley (to replace the Ccam seal)?
I'm a bit concerned that it if it moved and the pulley didn't go back on the exact same position that it would throw the timing out.
Thanks.

Mine moved - I just realigned it to the correct position when I reassembled it. It was easy enough... take photos as you are pulling it to bits so you can be sure of the cam alignment when you are reassembling.

The pulley is keyed to the shaft so can not go back on in the wrong spot.

Talktheroo wrote:Method for removing the camshaft bolt.



Method for removing the camshaft pulley.



Just give it the alloy bar a tap with a hammer. The shock will usually break the seal between the pulley and the camshaft.
I do love your tool that you made up, Wombat. Awesome.
The Roo.

Fantastic write up. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. I'm just in the middle of the same job on my 07 Hiace van. Would never have been game enough to attempt water pump and timing belt replacement before reading these forums.. Just to clarify on the removal of the camshaft pulley bolt.. in your photo, it looks like you are removing the pulley bolt before removing the timing belt, thus using the timing belt to hold the pulley? is that correct? I had thought of doing the same thing but was worried I might break a tooth off one of the timing gears (on the injector pump etc) if placing too much strain on the pulleys.. or that the belt would slip or break causing the cam to turn and potentially bend a valve..? Am I just being paranoid here? I have read on other forums that suggest removing the valve cover to hold the camshaft with a spanner but geeze seems a lot of effort and expense having to remove the "one use" injector pipes etc etc to get that cover off.. Also anyone know a suitable alternative coolant? I was reading the label on a container of "Nulon premium long life" concentrate, and seemed to meet the requirements as stated in my owners manual? or is it just safer to use genuine.. (just a lot further for me to get to a Toyota service dealer).. cheers in advance.. Jimbo

jimblor wrote:
Fantastic write up. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. I'm just in the middle of the same job on my 07 Hiace van. Would never have been game enough to attempt water pump and timing belt replacement before reading these forums.. Just to clarify on the removal of the camshaft pulley bolt.. in your photo, it looks like you are removing the pulley bolt before removing the timing belt, thus using the timing belt to hold the pulley? is that correct? I had thought of doing the same thing but was worried I might break a tooth off one of the timing gears (on the injector pump etc) if placing too much strain on the pulleys.. or that the belt would slip or break causing the cam to turn and potentially bend a valve..? Am I just being paranoid here? I have read on other forums that suggest removing the valve cover to hold the camshaft with a spanner but geeze seems a lot of effort and expense having to remove the "one use" injector pipes etc etc to get that cover off.. Also anyone know a suitable alternative coolant? I was reading the label on a container of "Nulon premium long life" concentrate, and seemed to meet the requirements as stated in my owners manual? or is it just safer to use genuine.. (just a lot further for me to get to a Toyota service dealer).. cheers in advance.. Jimbo

I had the same concern with the camshaft pulley bolt. There's was no way I was going to pull off the intercooler and everything just to get a spanner on the camshaft. That's why I made up the tool on the previous page. Plenty of people seem to have cracked the bolt with just the timing belt holding it, though, without issue. So I guess you have to make your own call. If you are genuinely concerned, the safest way to go is to get a spanner on the cam shaft.

Roo has done plenty more of these than the one I have done, though. So I'm sure he'll be able to give you a better answer.

Yes, remove the camshaft bolt before you take the timing belt and associated components off. I do use a rattle gun but you can do this manually (breaker bars). Just make sure you use a 19mm six point (camshaft bolt) and a 22mm six point socket for the crankshaft bolt, wink.
The Roo.

Hello,

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but for a major service (275,000km) can anyone add anything to this list they think I would need? Trying to get a quote done up.

Timing Belt
Water Pump + coolant
Tensioner
Idler
Camshaft seal
Crank oil seal
Serpentine Belt
Engine oil/Fuel filters
Air filter
Brake & Clutch fluid
Transfer/Diff oils
Valve clearances
Aircon/Cabin filters
Clean/Replace MAP
Clean MAF

Also going to be getting a set of new Denso injectors/injector lines.

Thanks for your help.

I'd probably consider having the brake hydraulics rebuilt, so pistons removed and cleaned or replaced and new seals. I'd also consider new brake lines at that age if they haven't been replaced before. Probably worth having the CVs inspected too.

Awesome... I know what I'm going to be doing on the weekend now...

Nearing 300k it would be worth getting the alternator serviced and bearings replaced and getting the clutched pulley replaced with a conventional pulley if you havent already had alternator issues. Replace serpentine belt idler pulley bearings, there are 2 in each idler.

When your doing your own servicing its wise to spread the other irregular maintenance things like alt, drive line oils and breaks out over the just oil change services so it doesnt become a 3 day event and cost a fortune all at once.

Hey Newmo081 how much did the quote come back for all that work.

Okey, 35nm was in my case to much.. the idler bolt kept turning. Now I have to drill the hole and put heli-coil.
Can someone comfirm that it is 35nm on this? And how many nm when the heli-coil is in?

Just back from replacing my N70 water pump, timing belt, etc (@300K), after following much of the advice within this thread. Thanks to all who have contributed previously. 4hrs work all in. Awesome.

Some notes based on my learnings...

The first thing Toyota fitted to the 1KD engine was the water pump... so much has to come off to get to the original 1-piece pump. Timing belt, Cam gear (came away easy with a rattle gun), A/C compressor + its bracket, top bolts of alternator bracket and swung away... to finally get to the water pump.

I renewed with a genuine 2-piece pump... I also applied some light coat of silicone to the engine/pump gasket as couldn't bear the thought of it leaking on me when done.

Torqued everything up as per earlier posts. All good.

Genuine 2-peice pump part no: 1610069357

I didn't do the camshaft seal, looked fine and didn't fancy disturbing it.

Looking forward to another 300K

Cheers, Craig.

Yep, its a hangover from petrol engines to change out the cam seals. Its rare for the 1kd cam seal to go.