NewHilux.net

boxhead55 wrote:Yea not cheap but good for 160 000km or 10 years. So good value. We have to capture and reuse the coolant when doing warranty jobs. As it is so good.

Just curious, how does it differ from other brands?

The Toyota Coolants, as a general comment, have really proven themselves over a period of time.
The SLLC coolant is an excellent quality product.
The only product on the market that comes anywhere near it, is the new Penrite group of coolants.
Just my opinion, for what it's worth.



This water pump had done 220,000kms before the seal went. Clean as, and seeing is believing.
The Roo.

Similar situation here...had the water pump replaced as well as a bunch of other things done during that service and opened the bonnet the other night to find the radiator reservoir tank lingering on low.

Interested in doing a reverse flush and bleed of the cooling system as described by Toyboata. Just wanted some clarification on a few steps?

1. Where is the heater tap? I think I can see it; the top of the radiator has a thick hose leading to the tap, then two smaller hoses jutting off the tap? Does it matter which of the two jutting off is removed?
2. In Step 9: where it says water, do you use coolant?

It looks simple enough a process...just a bit cautious as water seems a real concern to any diesel engine. Or, is it recommended to top off and wait for the 96mth/160k service where the engine coolant is replaced anyway? Would request a reverse flush and bleed during this service.

If anyone can provide pictures of the tap and relevant hoses, that would be really helpful as I'm guessing at the moment.

EDIT: Here is where I'm assuming the heater tap and heater hoses are. Fat hose with clamp beneath the rocker cover clamps to the heater tap; then you have the two hoses, one that seemingly wraps around the back of the engine area and one that runs towards the battery. These are all dead center in the image. Can anyone confirm?

I think the cold to hot dial on the dash is the heater tap mate.
Just filled mine to the B mark with the little bleed cap off the radiator. Slow process.
Think I have too much coolant in system now as been for a couple drives and still above the B mark.

First thing, coolant not water. Toyota Super Long Life Coolant.
Just hasn't been bled properly. Fill with the same coolant to full when cold. keep an eye out on the coolant levels for a week.
It is a slow process getting all the air out of the cooling system. Remember to put the heater onto hot when bleeding the cooling system of air.
The Roo.

How clean are the internals using SLLC coolant.



Penrite have some really good coolants, as well. Their pink dye one is really good, as well.
The seal went on this water pump, and that's what happens to most of them.
The Roo.

I have had to drain and replace the coolant in mine several times now and each time I have had the same results.
What I have always done in the past with other cars and Utes is this;

Drain the coolant what ever way is most suitable.

Get coolant fill volume from the manuals and measure or make up exactly this much coolant.

Fill the radiator until it wont take any more. Put the radiator cap back on and start the motor.
Then remove the radiator cap and with the motor running and while the ute warms up top up the radiator as the level drops. Once you have put all the measure coolant in then put the radiator cap back on and take it for a drive. Then top up the over flow bottle so it is nearly over flowing. the coolant system will blow out any excess the next time the motor gets to temp.

However for my 08 Hilux this has never worked and I have had to do the above plus take it for a drive around the block a few times. Keep an eye on the temperature gauge. once the Ute gets up to normal temperature let the Ute cool down and top up the radiator again. Then go for a drive around the bock letting the Ute again get up to temperature . Let it cool again and top it up once more.

Keep doing this until it wont take any more coolant or you have used up all the measured out volume of coolant.

I have found that every time I have drained the coolant I have had to do this two or three times until it had taken all the coolant.

Stay close to home as the temperature gauge is likely to show the coolant temperature go to the overheating range. This is likely just the trapped air or hot water vapor that is hotter than the coolant causing the temperature gauge to go high and not an indication that the coolant is too hot. (The temperature sender is at a high point in the cooling system and likely measuring trapped air temperature)

And remember to put the heater on high to open the water path for the heater.
And don't open the radiator cap while the motor is hot as you will burn your self.

I think that the system has high points that traps air and that driving around corners and over bumps helps move the air back to the radiator.

Torsion wrote:Cool Roo, agree, yep the brass head shows signs of wear already, if I do this job again I will replace that bolt next time.
Id love to hear how and what tools you mechanic's use to accessing that drain bolt? Thats the best method I could find that worked with the tools I have.

2 x 5 litre Toyota SLLC bottles from my Toyo Dealer approx $33.00 each, you need 10 litres - So yeh its not cheap.
But I wouldn't risk running non genuine stuff in these temperamental engines.

I tackled this job today when fitting a new radiator.
Drain plug is a non issue. 1/4" drive with deep 10mm socket and an extension.
Getting the lower radiator mount bolts was a pita though.